I have a 1997 f-250 ld with a 5.4, auto and I think a 10.25 rearend. 140,000 miles on the truck. I'm getting a sound from the rearend that sounds like a dry bearing. does it with light throttle input, if you floor it there is no noise. It also does it on accelaration and decelaration. I'm thinking carrier bearings. Thanks for any help. I plan on pulling it apart in abought 2 weeks when i'm done pulling my landscape trailer every day. Thanks for any help!

 

I'll assume you've ruled out u-joints. If you're doing carrier bearings, go with a whole gearset from randy's ring and pinon, they're first class all the way man. And by the time you pay for just a set of bearings, you could have a new carrier with different gears.

 

Just a noise? Is there any vibrations?

 

yes I forgot that part, it does have a vibration at around 60.

 

i would sure check the universal joints first. much more common since they ae not routinely greased. the carier bearings are covered with oil all the time????????

 

Carrier bearings went south in my 2000F150 at 65,000 miles. in my 98 Explorer at about 50,000. No, I don't use them for towing.

 

Start with checking out your universal joints, those are easier to get to than inside the rear axle.Make sure there ok , and if they are check your driveshaft and make sure no wieghts have fallen off of it(this will be observed buy a clear unrusted spot on the driveshaft.) if that checks out ok , then try this step next: check your wheel bearings by raising the rear of the vehicle and spinning the rear wheels buy hand(Truck will have to be in nuetral and front wheels will have to be blocked,front and backside of them,plus emergency brake is off also.)Listen for evidence of rough(noisy) bearings. Once its at this step more than likely your issue is at the rear axle housing. Not sure about the 97 250 but my 97 150 had a revised yoke put on it after i too was experiencing drive train problems . We tried everything form greasing the shaft input into the transmission to greasing the leaf springs, and it ended up beeing a design flaw or so i was told from the dealer when i purchased the truck. They replaced it for free. Problem solved.I havent done a whole lot of work on rear ends but i have voyaged into a couple before(ive replaced axleshaft oil seals, backing plates and removed axle's). Axle bearings however was not one of them. I lefted this to a pro.Maybe someone else might chime in on this one?????

 

you can also pop the rear cover off, drain all the old oil in a container, then check for any metal particles, if so, its just a matter of time before it could leave you stranded if it locks up completely. my vote would be pinion brgs. i certainly wouldn't go on any long trips until its fixed. let us know what you find out....good luck...paul

 

I did find out that there is alot of play on the slip-yoke side of the drive shaft, How much play is normal? Thanks for your help, I will post what was wrong with it when it's finished.

 

Not sure on how much play is normal. Maybe someone else could chime in on this one??

 

Ok I worked on the truck tonight and got it fixed. It was a bad u-joint on the driveshaft on the diff end. Replaced the u-joint and now have no proplems! Thanks for your help.

 

Good to hear that. easy fix there for ya

 

I replaced the rear bearings, but still have a rumbling vibration on accelaration (already got the tire dealer to replace the new tires I bought..it seems the tires weren't the problem..oops). I guess i'll try the u-joints next.

BTW, get a chiltons book..replacing rear bearings is fairly easy. You can 'rent' the bearing puller from AutoZone.

 

fpolack...how did your axles look, where the brg rides? is yours a 8.8 or 9.75? was putting the new brgs back in fairly easy? special tools? thanks...paul

 

the axles looked OK..a little scarring, but didn't look damaged. mine is an 8.8 non-ltd slip (99 F150 V6). The steps for R&R the bearings are strightforward. After jacking up the rear of the truck, remove the tires, unbolt the calipers and support them with a coathanger, then remove the rear rotors. Drop the rear end cover (all the fluid comes out). Then you have to remove a small bolt that holds the spiders in. (I think it's 8mm)
Pull the two spider gears out. From the outside of the truck push the axles in..this will allow you to see the end of the axle from inside the housing. there is a C-clip on the end of the axle..just pull it out with a magnet or needlenose. then you can pull the axle out.
From the rotor side, pull out the old seal. I rented a bearing puller that works with a slide hammer. It takes a few good whacks to get the bearing out. Then put the new bearing in, using the old one and a hammer to nudge it in until it won't go anymore.
I used to work in a shop in college...hopefully I did this right. I used a Chilton's book and I believe it had good instructions.