Redneck hot tank - what chemicals needed?
#1
Redneck hot tank - what chemicals needed?
I can't locate a shop in Boise that has a Redi-Strip system to get the scale out of my engine blocks, so I'm making my own 'redneck hot tank' - a 55 gallon drum with a turkey fryer burner underneath to heat it. I'll be buying some Red Devil lye (NaOH) to put in the water, but I was wondering if I should add any other chemicals to the mix.
Anybody have any suggestions?
Anybody have any suggestions?
#2
#3
#4
I'll pour some chlorine bleach in there to neutralize the caustic. I'll also dilute it a lot. I had pulled all the bearings out of the block so I don't expect that there's any lead or other heavy metals to worry about, just iron. Iron is good for the environment.
Previously, when I soaked some parts in molassas, I poured the used solvent onto my lawn. No harm done there, the grass is still quite green.
Previously, when I soaked some parts in molassas, I poured the used solvent onto my lawn. No harm done there, the grass is still quite green.
#5
I think you want to add some acid to neutralize the 'base' lye. Essentially, lye is like super strong baking soda, and you know what happens when you add baking soda to an acid covered battery. So, if you take a sample of your soup, and add some vinegar (weak acid) and the result it neutral, you know you are on the right track to make a neutral (acid - base) solution. I don't think bleach will do what you want.
tom
tom
#7
Join Date: May 2004
Location: The hills of No. Calif.
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If it's rust and scale you're trying to remove rather than grease, why not use the electrolytic process? Much safer, and you can pour the by-product right on the lawn or anywhere else you want fertilized:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
I've done this, and while slow, it does work. Any grease or slime on the block can easily be removed at the do-it-yourself car wash.
(If you use the Castrol Superclean, be sure to wear rubber gloves. That stuff will dry out your hands big-time!)
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
I've done this, and while slow, it does work. Any grease or slime on the block can easily be removed at the do-it-yourself car wash.
(If you use the Castrol Superclean, be sure to wear rubber gloves. That stuff will dry out your hands big-time!)
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#8
Regarding what to do with the leftover lye, since it's Sodium Hydroxide, I was intending to neutralize it with Chlorine either by using bleach or HydroChloric acid. Chlorine combines with Sodium to make salt, as in table salt and sea salt.
But I've got other things that need degreasing, so I'll be using it again.
Regarding rust removal, I got a plactic barrel today with the intention of using it for the electrolysis method. It's too small for the block, but it's perfect for heads, intakes, bellhousings, etc.
I can get nice steel drums, but I'm afraid they won't work right in an electrolysis setup.
But I've got other things that need degreasing, so I'll be using it again.
Regarding rust removal, I got a plactic barrel today with the intention of using it for the electrolysis method. It's too small for the block, but it's perfect for heads, intakes, bellhousings, etc.
I can get nice steel drums, but I'm afraid they won't work right in an electrolysis setup.
#14
Originally Posted by Plowdude
You might want to try muriatic acid. Let soak overnight.
#15