I've got a couple of questions for you for Y block guys. First-off I have a limited knowledge of engines, I can and have rebuilt 289s in 2 mustangs but I needed a book for that. So I do know some stuff but limited.
I bought this truck and somebody else had already started restoring it (if thats what you can call it, 1955 F-250) so it was kinda in pieces and I guess the orig. Y engine was shot but the P.O. got a new Y block for it outta an early 60s fire truck so it has about 5,000 miles on it "susposedly." I pulled the heads and it looked very good. 2 things I was wondering is there any place that I can find the Torque specs for the heads and intake online? I found that book "Ford Y block" but I cant find it for less than $70, is there another (cheaper) book, (I'm just a poor college kid)? So I have a gasket set and I dunno the right specs. to put it back together.
That and the side of the engine had a sticker on it that said it was remanufactered (pic in my gallery) and the P.O. said that it was a replacement engine for the truck at his local vol. Fire dept. What I was wondering is there any way to make sure that it is a 292 or a 312, and not some other bored out, or modified 292. The engine code shows C2AE so that is a 292 right but since it was remanufactured??? It also had a head from 61 and one from 60 and a 4 barrel ECZ. any ideas? Any help from you guys would be great.
I'll be back to my shop this weekend so if I can check anything that would tell me info on the engine I can look this weekend.
C2AE would be a 292 of 62-64 vintage. Very improbable that it was modified to a 312. For ID on the two heads and their respective chamber sizes, go to www.ford-y-block.com . Sometimes Mummert doesnt show chamber sizes and/or compression of some heads. If that is the case with one or more of your heads, they could be cc'd for compatibility. If the intake number ends with B, it has larger intake runners than if it ends with A. The B intake would take a 57 and later four barrel carb. The A intake would have a "teapot" carb on it. Check both heads for diameter of intake valves. They are likely 1.64 inches. If so that is the smallest diameter intake made for the Y's.
You might get lucky and find a forged crankshaft in the motor, which would be a really nice find.
Torque for head bolts is 70-75 ft lbs. Tighten bolts first to 55, then 65,then 75. Make sure the 4 longer head bolts go on the ends of the heads. The book you referenced shouldnt cost more than around $25.00.
Torque sequence is starting at the center top, then center bottom, then right top and bottom, to left of center top and bottom, and so forth.
Square corner of headgasket should be front top of each head.
Thanks for the info, it should be very useful. Do you know where I could get a copy of that book then? also is there a specified torque and sequece for the intake, also how would I know if it is a forged crank and what are the advantages of it? one more thing , this may sound kinda stupid but the crank pully didn't seem to go on all the way because the other y blocks that I've seen the timing arrow sits over the balancer and I can only get it with in 5/8". (it was off when I got the truck) should I pull it back off and check the bearing? Thanks.
The forged crankshaft is a C1TE, and can be ID'd from the outside, if you refer to the website I listed above. They are stronger than the rest of the crankshafts which were cast. People seek them to modify for strokers. I saw one recently on e-bay for around $400.
As for the timing arrow, there were a couple, maybe as many as three designs. I dont remember if mine is over the damper or stands off. Whatever, know that you can over tighten the damper bolt to the point of breaking it. A person recently did that and had to have the threaded remnants disintegrated by a machine shop. That particular instance is the only one I have heard of. He must have had well over 140 ft lbs on that thing.
46yblock-I never got a chance to check out any of the things on my engine but I am going back down to my place this weekend to hopefully assemble the engine I got the book so it shouldn't be too bad. I'll check that other stuff this weekend.
1954F250- I believe that they are 33x10.5 on 15" rims but I can check that for you also this weekend. I have never driven the truck since I got it but by the looks of it that would be all the bigger tires that can be put on this truck with the stock suspension.
46yblock- I got my engine together for the most part... I cannot find the bolt for the balancer I looked every where and can't find it so if you know the size and thread pitch or some where I could find that info so I can pick up a new one that would be awesome. I got some more pics in my gallery of the engine just setting on the frame.
As for the forged crank I must not know where I should be looking because there was nothing on the front of it. I have to replace the seal on the Timeing chain cover still so I will have that off if it is stamped there, that is why my balancer wouldn't go on all of the way. I forgot to check the intake but by zooming in on my pics it looks like a B I think.
I got the book to put the enigne together form my local library, amazing what you can find there.
1954F250- I checked the tires and they are 33x12.5 on 15 inch rims. I talked to the P.O. this past weekend and he said that they would rub if you cranked the wheel all the way or if you hit pot holes too hard.
I took a look at your gallery and you are really moving along. From what I could see it does look like you have the 57 and later intake. To run a 57 and later style carb you need to get a 57 and later distributor. It probably has that already. Not for sure but think the bolt is 5/8 inch diameter fine thread. Check the depth of the female threads for length, and get a grade 8 bolt.
John Mummert used to have a series of drawings on his site for IDing crankshafts. I just looked there to put the link here, but now it isnt there. It isnt essential information for you but would have been nice to know.
Congratulations on the library trip. Too many guys will try significant motor work without any reference, or experience, except this forum.
I remember looking at the dist. and it looked brand new I believe that it was dated C0-something so its a 1960 can't remember anything other than that. Wasn't too worried because it looked brand new when I pulled the cover on it. Yeah I was going to look at the crank and see if I could ID when I head back down to the shop.
I also am suspose to be getting the carb in the mail this next week or two ( the previous owner is still fishing for missing parts for me) so every thing I get from him is like a free x-mas present cause I already paid for it but never got it in the first place but got it later. Its nice to be able to buy stuff from a guy that is understanding.
It will be Kinda tough to get much work done on the truck when I live 200 miles away working on a Co-op for college, plus the next couple of weeks i'll be pretty much living in the woods Bow hunting for white tails ( the biggest are in NE Iowa anyway) so i get a lil picky and wait for the right big one and that will blow prolly the next 3 weeks.
I'll prolly be back on here when the time comes around to get the monster fired up wont be for awhile though.