Blower motor resistor replacement '96 Ranger
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You should be able to get it at your local parts store.
Blower Motor Switch Resistor
Removal and Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Disconnect the wire connector from the heater blower motor switch resistor, located on the A/C evaporator housing.
Remove two screws attaching the heater blower motor switch resistter blower motor switch resistor.
For installation, follow removal procedures in reverse order. Check system for proper operation.
Blower Motor Switch Resistor
Removal and Installation
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Disconnect the wire connector from the heater blower motor switch resistor, located on the A/C evaporator housing.
Remove two screws attaching the heater blower motor switch resistter blower motor switch resistor.
For installation, follow removal procedures in reverse order. Check system for proper operation.
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#8
I need the motor blower resistor for the manual system. I have asked for it at a couple of autoparts places like the Autozone and they tell me it's a dealer only item.The dealer wanted $128.00 for it. I am looking for a way to get the resistor without paying that kind of money. Some people on this forum say they have gotten it for around $20.00
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Try a salvage yard, another dealer, or your Motorcraft distributor.
Good grief, $128 is not reasonable for a wire wound resistor pack!!!! Electrically it's about as low tech as it's gets, about one notch above a wire maybe!!!!
Good grief, $128 is not reasonable for a wire wound resistor pack!!!! Electrically it's about as low tech as it's gets, about one notch above a wire maybe!!!!
Last edited by pawpaw; 10-11-2005 at 02:08 PM. Reason: correct spelling
#12
I have in the past, successfully repaired two non encapsulated resistor packs, by replacing the open wire wound resistor portion thusly.
I used the steel spring from an old ball point pen & my calipers & dvom to measure & match the two wires gauge diameter, (matching the wires gauge diameter & resistance is imprtant) then the vom to be sure to match the old & new resistance values.
Then carefully cut the new coil at the proper length, so the new resistor would closely match the old .
Just be sure to strecth the springs coils open slightly, so they'll remain open & not close backup & touch each other & cause the resistance to change, then meaure & cut to lenght.
Then I carfully removed the old wires brass rivets & installed the new resistor & reused the rivits to hold the new coiled resistor in place.
I suppose you could use new BRASS, NOT ALUMINUM, rivets, or BRASS pop rivits, or if there's room, a small brass bolt, nut & lock washer, or some thread locker, so the threaded fastener can't loosen up fom thermal cycling & vibration.
I was driven to do this on the Daughters old 77 Celica, after the Dealers parts folks said I had to buy the entire $130 heater control assy asa replacement resistor or resistor assembly wasn't offered,
All I needed was a 69 cent resistor!!!! LOL
I said NUTS to that & fixed the danged thing myself, in about 2 hours, most of which was disassembly & reassembly time on the heater control assy & dashboard, which would have had to be done anyway!!!
I once had to do a repair on the Celica's starter motor's soft drawn copper solenoid contacts, which were erroded at the contact point, but were designed to be replaceable, BUT Toyota offered NO replacemet & required the entire starter motor be replaced instead.
I said nuts to that too & repired the danged contact surface, by overlaying & soldering in place, a half hard brass washer, I had in my junk drawer, that piece of junk saved her over $200 for a replacement starter motor she didn't need.
That eight year old fix too, was still in place when she sold the car in 97!!!! LOL
So what I'm driving at, is, look carefully at the part, if the resistors are accessible, just repair/replace the ONE thats open circuit, bet you can do it!!!!!!
I hate it when the system tries to screw you on parts replacement like that.
I know why it's set up & done that way, because it would cost more than that in labor, to have a Toyota or Ford tech repair the danged thing, than replace it, but I still just don't like it.
Anyway, the repaired resistor pack was still in place & working, when she sold the Celica in 97. IT had been in there about 10 years by then. LOL
So I repair many things like that, when the replacement costs are exorbitant, but repair is simple & low cost!!!!
I used the steel spring from an old ball point pen & my calipers & dvom to measure & match the two wires gauge diameter, (matching the wires gauge diameter & resistance is imprtant) then the vom to be sure to match the old & new resistance values.
Then carefully cut the new coil at the proper length, so the new resistor would closely match the old .
Just be sure to strecth the springs coils open slightly, so they'll remain open & not close backup & touch each other & cause the resistance to change, then meaure & cut to lenght.
Then I carfully removed the old wires brass rivets & installed the new resistor & reused the rivits to hold the new coiled resistor in place.
I suppose you could use new BRASS, NOT ALUMINUM, rivets, or BRASS pop rivits, or if there's room, a small brass bolt, nut & lock washer, or some thread locker, so the threaded fastener can't loosen up fom thermal cycling & vibration.
I was driven to do this on the Daughters old 77 Celica, after the Dealers parts folks said I had to buy the entire $130 heater control assy asa replacement resistor or resistor assembly wasn't offered,
All I needed was a 69 cent resistor!!!! LOL
I said NUTS to that & fixed the danged thing myself, in about 2 hours, most of which was disassembly & reassembly time on the heater control assy & dashboard, which would have had to be done anyway!!!
I once had to do a repair on the Celica's starter motor's soft drawn copper solenoid contacts, which were erroded at the contact point, but were designed to be replaceable, BUT Toyota offered NO replacemet & required the entire starter motor be replaced instead.
I said nuts to that too & repired the danged contact surface, by overlaying & soldering in place, a half hard brass washer, I had in my junk drawer, that piece of junk saved her over $200 for a replacement starter motor she didn't need.
That eight year old fix too, was still in place when she sold the car in 97!!!! LOL
So what I'm driving at, is, look carefully at the part, if the resistors are accessible, just repair/replace the ONE thats open circuit, bet you can do it!!!!!!
I hate it when the system tries to screw you on parts replacement like that.
I know why it's set up & done that way, because it would cost more than that in labor, to have a Toyota or Ford tech repair the danged thing, than replace it, but I still just don't like it.
Anyway, the repaired resistor pack was still in place & working, when she sold the Celica in 97. IT had been in there about 10 years by then. LOL
So I repair many things like that, when the replacement costs are exorbitant, but repair is simple & low cost!!!!
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I ordered the part, thought I ordered a blower motor resistor, I was sent a relay. It was $7.00, $13.13 with shipping. I found 4 relays identical to the one I recieved. One under the dash, and 3 under the hood in a relay/fuse type box. I could not see anything visually wrong with any of them. I tried replacing them one at a time and was unsuccessful at getting the blower motor lower speeds to work. Could be because this is a relay and not the resistor I needed. I don't understand why it's so hard to get the part I need.