Newer Chassis under a 56 F-100

[Kootenay56]

Hi Everyone, Has anyone put a later model chassis under a 56 F-100. I am starting my restoration and I am looking for a way to create a dependable daily driver. I do not have a lot of money to spend, so I am wondering if this idea would be an economical way to update engine, tranny, suspension etc. Thanks for any help you can provide!!!

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[LEckart]

Welcome Kootenay56-
This subject comes up quite often. Most people here offer the advice of updating the original chassis rather then trying to fit a newer chassis to the older cab and bed. Do a search on "Ranger" or "S10" frames or chassis and look at the tech articles under suspension to get some idea of what has been discussed.

[AXracer]

If you don't have a lot of money, and want a dependable driver, update the OEM chassis as needed. Frame swaps are one of the most difficult, expensive and time consuming mod you can attempt, and there would be no appreciable gain achieved, just a lot of headaches.

[fatfenders56]

This isn't a bad idea if you are FOMOCO (see the thread on the FR-100) otherwise, use the OEM frame and your imagination, these guys are more than willing to offer their experience(s) both positive and negative. good luck!

[vanHoy]

I'm working on mounting a '56 to a '78 F-150 short bed 4 x 4 frame. I've got it down to the frame and a local chop shop is going to do the basics for me. This will be his fourth F-100 on different frames.

No special reason for using a '78 F-150, I just had it from a low mileage wrecked truck.

Looking at the '78 frame side by side to the poor pitiful thin little '56 frame it seems like a good idea, but time will tell.

[AXracer]

Just to play devil's advocate:
What was your motivation for changing the entire frame beside you had it rather than transplanting the new driveline to the OEM frame? I don't think strength of the frame is an issue unless you are going dragracing and/or putting in an engine with more than 600 HP, then adding boxing plates might be in order. The survival rate alone says they are plenty strong.
Since the person doing the work is experienced with it (did you see any or talk to the owners of the others?) what is the cost of this operation, to what finish level, and how long to do it? Will he be fitting all the sheet metal or just the cab?

Oh wait, I see you said 4x4 frame. Does that mean you are going for the jacked up 4x4 offroader look/use? I think more here are interested in a lowered hot rod, or daily driver.

[Jag Red 54]

In Calif the truck is dated according to the frame. If you use a 78 frame then the 78 smog rules apply. Before you go and change frames you may want to find out if it will affect your registration and subsequint smog testing requirements. Jag

[WillyB]

I have been looking at it - but the truth is that beyond the front suspension all frames are basically the same thing - a pair of rails to hold the box up and the rear axle down, assuming you want rear leafs.

Somehow it just seems easier to scab a different front end to an existing frame - the only thing you have to worry about is making the mounts for the core support come out correct.

People worry about weakening the frame when they splice it, but that is nonsense. They cut and weld the frames on the big trucks all the time - and they haul 25 tons or more. You just have to make your joint strong.

That seems a whole lot easier than trying to mate the cab and box, plus the front clip, to a later frame.

[fatfenders56]

that's why I like my LTD/Lincoln front clips so much. The result on the back side is well worth the work on the front side

[vanHoy]

Well, only time will tell how well the project of the '56 on the '78 frame will turn out. Hey, I'll have a 5-6-7-8!

It just seems to me that rejiggering all the drive train to an old frame would be darn near as much if not more work. The '78 frame is more massive allowing for much larger rear leafs and already has IFS and good sturdy smooth riding suspension.

No it's not going to be jacked up, just the factory Ford '78 hi-boy, with a little more clearance.

It is registered as a '56, but I'm not worried either way, because the '78 doesn't have a cat and it will pass emissions for '78 standards.

We haven't decided, but the chop shop is going to at a minimum mount the cab fenders hood bed and running boards. I may take it apart to do the finish work myself.

Yes I've talked to former customers, this place is booked 6 to 8 months in advance and turns out great work at a reasonable price. [I hope.]

--Roger

[AXracer]

Trust us that have BTDT it's a LOT easier transplanting the running gear to the stock frame than transplanting all the sheetmetal to a different frame. Seldom if ever does the wheelbase, track width, controls and seating fall into the right location, all the body, front clip and bed mounts need to be custom fabricated (unless they just weld everything together only to shake apart later). You can pick up the phone and order IFS crossmembers, engine mounts, rear suspension setups, underfloor or firewall mounted pedals, tilt steering columns etc etc etc that just drop into place, no muss no fuss. A pro builder could put it all together in a week or less, and all the sheet metal would still fit the way the factory designed it.

[vanHoy]

Well, as you said you're the devil's advocate. Apparently there's some strong feeling about keeping the frame original, even if all other components are replaced.

Seems like a pickup is easier to deal with either way than a car. Seen a lot of half finished cobbled up hot rods for sale.

--Roger

[AXracer]

There's no emotional attachment to the original frame, it's just that it's as basic as it gets, it's strong and can be made stronger, it's easily modified since it's straight front to back, the rear suspension is of a design still in use today and the best rear axle is a bolt in swap. It's wide enough to accomidate any engine and headers. The front suspension and axle is very servicable, or there are all kinds of IFS choices from straight out of the salvage yard to full show quality that are easily installed, and all the attachments for the sheet metal are already there or available off the shelf. Best of all it usually comes free with the truck! What's not to like?

[himmelberg]

Taking the other side of the discussion at hand, I don't see why more of these kinds of swaps don't take place. There are skilled fabricators who have unlocked the secret of mounting old Chevy trucks on S-10 frames, why not F-100's on a suitable Ford frame? I encourage and support anyone with the fabrication skills, the time and the money to upgrade his ride.

Looking at this from the money side, all we have to do is visit Earl's Page to see what a complete restoration involves. Big bucks. When restored he will have a '50's model truck that is just like new.

Let's pretend that George goes insane for a moment and decides he needs a "better" ride with better brakes. Taking out his costs and efforts on his stock frame how much would he save by using a '70's model frame? Rebuilding the stock front end (less the steering box) runs 500+ bucks. Isn't it cheaper to rebuild a 70's model front end? (I really don't know.)

I'm not suggesting that restoration is our goal. I am asking where the savings comes in. I see that all of the running gear is in place on a donor. However, I'd suspect every part on a truck that was built almost 30 years ago and have it checked or changed.

It sounds like I am arguing against the frameswap. Not so. I seek the answers to this vision of a simpler-cheaper-more up to date hot rod truck. Not a few of us Americans have appeared on this board with the same quest. I am one of them.

decidedly, himmelberg