With what 4x4 and off roading has become, I think it makes good since to change out the frame. I know, at least with the mid-seventies 2x4 frames, the only real issue in a mid-70’s frame change is increased front tract width and the inability to drag your oil pan in the dirt. The extra 1 to 1-1/2" sticking out from under the fenders, in the case of four wheel drive is actually an asset.

The newer frame is considerably stronger, steering geometry is correct and all the modern conveniences are already there. Also I would think that bolt-on aftermarket support would be readily available to further modify the truck if you had that desire.

 

If the smog requirements are not an issue in your state, and you are happy with a body that sits up high on the frame, then I guess the end product will be fine. However, most people that want to do this procedure are not looking for a 4X4. They like that look of a stocker or a lowered truck. My understanding is that when a newer frame is used, the end result has the body sitting too high for most people's taste. So I say go for it and report back on the steps necessary for the transformation. I would like someone to eventually be able to outline the proper way to do this trade. (translation: the easiest way) I'm sure that the first people who tried a volare swap had major obsticals to overcome. Jag

 

It is easier to mount a newer engine and trans, only three basic mounting points versus the entire body. You need to consider what your going to use it for. If your trying to modernize it you are putting an almost 30 year old from under your 56.
Jeff

 

Just thinking about why the change over is so difficult.... Is it because the frame is basically flat except for the hump over the rear axle? If thats the main obstacle, then it seems like a hump can be fabbed into the new frame. How about the mounting points for the cab??? It doesn't seem too difficult to me that new support points could be added. I guess the stearing geometry might be tricky. It seems like somebody should be able to create a video and make this popular idea a reality without having to reinvent the wheel each time. Jag

 

Himmy,
to do a sucessful frame swap:
1. find a donor vehicle that has the same wheelbase and track width, the latter being more critical since it is near impossible to change, but if the former doesn't match also then you will need to shorten or lengthen the donor frame. Much more work than installing an aftermarket IFS crossmember kit, as much or more work than installing a front clip on the OEM frame. IDK, but quite possibly the S10 frame has the same wheelbase and track as early bowtie trucks? Ford OTOH tended to change such things with every redesign.
2. check the donor engine/transmission fore-aft position. Will it clear the firewall and floor? If not you may need to move the engine mounts and/or modify the firewall and floorboards, again as much or more work than installing a ready made set of mounts on the OEM frame which will clear without firewall/floor mods.
3. check steering column length and angle, will it line up with bottom of dash and seat position? If not you'll have to modify position and/or length. Will need to mount firewall mounted mastercylinder, hanging pedals.
4 Once you find a suitable donor that doesn't need any of the above work (needle in a haystack or you should take up gambling for a living if you do) or have made all the necessary mods, you now have to design and custom fab cab, bed, fender, radiator, battery and bumper mounts and do it in such a way that all the sheet metal lines up (you already know what it's like to align all the sheet metal with the factory mounts, imagine having to make all new mounts that work).
5. Wire it all together so the chassis wiring works with the cab wiring.

What have you really gained for all that extra work?

 

The biggest problem vanHoy will have is dealing with the rear of his 78 frame since it is wider than the stock 34 inch 53-56 frame, it actually widens under the cab. The rear cab will either have to sit above the frame (creating the high ride everyone hates) or he will get into some body mods, channeling the rear cab at the floor so that it can straddle the frame like it should. Since he has the 56, his gas tank location is not a factor and if he had had a slightly older frame (pre 78?), it would have been 34" front to rear and he could have re-used his old rear cab mounts and arms, cab floor channeling wouldn't be necessary.

The problem is not so much the hump in the rear as it is the dip under the cab that causes the most problems. Front cab mounts (due to the dip) actually extend a couple of inches above the frame rails. The actual steering geometry is unaffected by the change but the 78 steering sector will sit slightly up and to the left compared to the stock 56 location.

 

i think he meant the geometry and layout of modern steering is better, which is why everyone replaces the front clip on the 50's truck. I am going to attempt to put my 53 on the frame of a 98. i know i am in for work mounting the body, but i am saving a "LOT" of money not putting together a motor, trans, complete from susp swap. rear axle, wiring harness, etc etc. and when done, i'll have the reliability and off the shelf driveline parts availability of a 7 year old vehicle. All this for the cost of picking up a "useless" wrecked vehicle.

 

IMHO people replace the front clip because it's the thing to do according to all the magazines. The beam axle doesn't buy ads. I've said it many times, because of our racing endevors, I more than most can appreciate good handling and ride. When I first bought my panel, I immediately started researching IFS setups while making plans to fly out and drive it back. However after driving it most of the way across the country with the updated beam axle (2" drop, reversed eye dropped springs, all new wear parts), I was pleasantly surprised to find it handles and rides as well as most modern sedans and much better than any current truck I've been in. By the time I reached home I had cancelled any plans to change the front end except for the steering box.
Does the 98 frame match the wheelbase and tread width of the 53?

 

tread width yes, frame width close. i dont have a real bed for my truck, it was a wood bed truck, so i am not too worried about wheelbase. also, its fairly easy to move the rear forwards. i havnt made that my definate path yet, and i am not saying its going to be easy, but instead of just coughing up cash for premade off the shelf parts everyone has, mine will be totally different, which is more what i am into.

 

A couple of months ago I bought a 56 frame from an Airforce Major stationed in San Antonio who had a 53 and had purchased the complete chassis with engine/trans from a stolen 2004 Lightning and decided to put his 53 on it. I wanted to really give it a good lookover when I made the trip to pickup the 56 frame but he had been called out on manuevers in Florida and was unavailable. He had it crammed into a two car garage with several items stacked on it and I couldn't really see it very well. I do remember that the track width looked ok but also noticed that the front hangers for the rear springs were visible in a hole cut in the front of the rear fenders. That indicated the width of the later frame was wider than the 53. I assume he will add a sheet metal panel to hide the spring hanger. If anyone is in San Antonio and wants to see it I'm sure he would be proud to show it off and I'll be glad to pass along his contact info..

 

Well, guys, some doom and gloom and some rays of hope. All I can say is, "we'll see."

The point about the frame dip under the cab front is well taken. Probably the cab floor will have to be channeled.

The '78 tank will stay between the frame rails under the bed.

It could be that a ~'78 bed may be needed, that front rear leaf spring hanger has me worried now. Again, we'll see.

It's not going to be a jacked up rig that you need a ladder to get into, hopefully about the same height as the '78, slightly more clearance than the '56.

--van

 

Please keep a photo log and update the progress in your gallery regularly. I hope I didn't sound too D&G, just wanted to make the issues clear for those reading who think you can just pick up the body and set it over any frame like a plastic model kit.

 

From personal experience, I would just put a mustang II front suspension kit from someone like heidts or fat man fabrication or chasis engineering(Go IOWA COMPANNY!) or a dakota clip like i have seen done in a few trucks. You can get most anything you need to update your drivetrain from ppl like John's F-100s and Mid-Fifty, that what i did and i dont have but a 1000 bucks in my frame, motor, tranny, and rear end yet. I am however planning on changing a few things but that will be as money comes in. You would be money ahead by just putting a different front suspension and motor/tranny combo in instead of changing frames...trust me...i tried switching frames and it wouldve been a major mistake to my checkbook and my brain...more money and time, just go with something nice and simple, not el-cheapo equipment but something good brand and trusted/proven.

 

thank-you everyone for answering my question. I am just starting my 56 project truck and I wanted to make sure I head in the right direction. I do not want to have to scrap an idea and start again. I was not sure the work involved to switch over the body onto a newer chassis. I have decided to stay original. I have a chance to buy a 460cu with a c6 tranny out of a 78 ford with 50K original miles. I was not sure if the original frame would handle it. Has anyone put this combination in?

 

When you think of it, the extra weight and torque supplied by that motor is nothing compared to the weight your truck was designed to handle on the old farm roads. Most people box the frame, but I am not sure that is needed unless there are some rust problems.

Built Ford Tough is an advertising phrase for the newer trucks, but it was hard truth back then!