I would like to convert my 460 to a manual choke. I Just long blocked the engine and kitted the carb. The tubes that go from the intake manifold to the auto-choke and elsewhere are gone. The port has been plugged in the past, and I did not want to break off the bolts and end up with another nightmare drilling and taping new bolt holes.

The port on the auto choke has been capped as well. The guy that kitked the carb said the choke would perform better if I connected the tube.

Does anyone have any insights on the conversion to a manual choke and what 'gotchas' can I expect trying the conversion? To date the auto choke has been a real pain and marginally functional.

Thank you in advance

 

You can buy a conversion kit at any of the parts stores, it comes with everything including the cable, pretty easy install.

 

pbuffing - when you've finished the conversion, please post how it works. I want to do the same thing but will wait to see how your conversion worked out. The auto choke on my 460 stays on too long - the clouds of black smoke are annoying and I have the impression I could open a manual choke almost immediately after starting and the engine would be happier. Thanks in advance.

 

I've been using them for years on different vehicles, never liked auto chokes. they go on easy and work great. I have them on both my Mustangs, and as soon as I figure out what I'm doing with the 74 F-350 she'll get one too.

 

There is a TON of info on this topic in the fuel delivery forum as it is related to it.
There may even be a tech article in the tech article section about this swap.

The nice thing about a manual choke is that it is fault free............. unless of course if you doze off while driving .

 

It isn't any more work to fix the automatic choke right than it is to hack it up with some aftermarket manual choke. The choke riser tube hole in the exhaust manifold can easily be reamed out with the correct size drill bit and the one-size-fits-all choke riser tube kits from the auto parts stores work fine. You will probably find that once you fix the riser tube correctly that it pulls off during warmup like it is supposed to -- if not it is easy enough to reset it slightly leaner by the hash marks on the housing. If you keep the original automatic setup then anyone can drive your truck, even someone that doesn't understand how to operate a manual choke (which is most people these days). You may also have some issues with the emissions ***** if you convert it to manual (which may or may not be an issue depending on where you live).
Sorry if that isn't what you wanted to hear but I HATE it when I see this stuff hacked up like this on older vehicles. Somebody did that to my '76 F-250 before I got it, and I went to the auto parts store and got the correct choke thermostat and the riser tube kit and put them in, and guess what? It starts cold, warms up, and runs great, just like it did when it was new.
Brian

 

To each his own, I don't like automatic chokes or automatic transmissions. And to say it's a hack is a bit much. Just because it came on the truck originally doesn't mean it's the best option. I build my cars and trucks the way I like them, not the way Henry built them. henry doesn't have to drive them, I do

 

have you thought about an electric choke I put one on my 360 works good just have to make sure you have a good ground used one off a late 70's eary 80's 302 granada and used a wire off the alt I've also used manual choke conversions the big problem with them is getting every thing to lineup so it releases completly and if possible you want to keep the choke pull-off hooked up in the choke housing (if thats the type you have) or you will have a vacum leak in the choke housing

 

On this 76 460 the riser tube terminates in the intake manifold which I just had boiled out and I don't want metal filings in the intake of the new engine.

It has a 2 3/16 cap screws fastening a plate to the intake manifold over one of the EGR pathways. So far on this project I've drilled out and rethreaded 1 7/16 bolt from the block and 2 7/16 studs from one of the exhaust manifolds... I've had my fill of trying to drill exactly on the center of bolts.

There are 2 ports in the plate, I've got no idea where the 2nd one might happen to go. I would be happy giving someone else the job of saving the planet and take the 70's version of emission control stuff and ship it back to Ford for them to choke on. The top of the engine is a maze of sensors and small rubber hoses 2 of which connect to a fruit juice can. There... I've vented. And...

I purchased the kit today. Cursory observation shows most of the sruff staying... will keep you posted