I've read of using newer ford small block electronic distributor parts in a y-block distributor body? anybody have any info on this?
Thanks

 

Hi Tom,

I considered that for my 55 F-600 and decided to go with a newer distributor for my 239. They're pretty much the same from 56-62 or so. (You have to count the teeth on the dist gears 13 vs 14 etc)

I used one from a 60 292 and installed a Pertonix electronic unit inside. It was about $65 or so from Warehouse Autoparts in Redding
http://www.warehouseautoparts.com/ and took only about 30 min to install. It completely replaces the points and condenser. I also have the "Flame-Thrower" coil but have not installed it yet. It was about $30 I'm not sure if there's much advantage in the coil....Maybe someone else has tried it. The Pertronix unit works pretty nice and although I've not heard of them failing, you can just put the points/condensor back in and be right back on the road if needed.


Regards,


Rick

 

Walt Nuckels adapted Duraspark parts to a 'Bird distributor successfully. Unfortunately he left a picture, but no notes before he died. It seems to me that someone else outlined this in Y-Block Magazine, but I couldn't find it. Perhaps Tim or someone else remembers. Basically you are turning the point cam round & to a diameter that will make a slight press-fit with the reluctor wheel, then mounting the pickup on the point plate so it is correctly phased. Duraspark wiring is very simple as well & I have the directions if you need them.

In the Sept./Oct. 1995 issue of Y-Block Magazine, Gord McMillan outlined the adaptation of Chrysler electronics into the Y-block distributor. Back issues are still available from the magazine at P.O. Box 1005, Ottawa, IL. 61350.

 

I recently took my Flamethrower I coil and a stock coil over to a friend's who has some good electronic testing equipment. Both coils tested the same in terms of resistence and other parameters. We compared those two coils to a Flamethrower II, and its internal resistence was .6 ohms compared to the 1.5 of the others.
Instructions on my I said to remove ballast resistor. Instructions on the II said to remove ballast resistor only for II coils, countermanding the I's directions. So I finally found out why my Pertronix burned up after a dozen miles. No ballast resistor.

 

Some have accomplished this by cutting both distributors in half and using the lower half from the Y-Block and the newer upper half. There is reallly no problem in doing this IF you are a machinist or have access to machine shop equipment. When done it just looks like a new dist. in a Y-Block.

 

There might be another reason. Does your truck or did it have a generator installed instead of a alternator?


The older style generators have been known to produce voltage "spikes" that could be damaging to electronics. The instruction that came with my Pertronix unit indicated to not use a dropping (ballast) resistor. All the resistor does is reduce the voltage to the coil (If it's a 6v coil) If you use a 12v coil then a voltage dropping resistor is not needed.

I got around this by putting a rather large (several thousand micro-farads, 50V) capacitor across the 12v A+ line. This has the effect of "smoothing" the output of the generator. This is not usually needed with an altenator since it's dc produced from a rectified 3 phase ac source. The altenator doesn't produce spikes like a generator does.

Starters also sometimes produce spikes that can be up to 100V or more. The capacitor will effectively suppress those spikes also.

Most electronic equipment is protected from spikes using solid state devices but there is a limit usually on how high the voltage spike can be before causing damage. This is similar to the spike protector you have your computer connected to.( They use MOV's: Metal Oxide Varistor's for example)


I did the same thing on my old 66 boat when I replaced the old distributor on the 230cu-in GM 6 with a much more modern HEI distributor.



Regards,

Rick

 

The Mopar conversion was published in the late 70's in I believe American Rodder by Frank Oddo. Pretty simple and the Mopar is bullet proof. Ive been installing them in flatheads for years, even ones with 12V generators.

If you use a Pertronix be sure to always carry an original set of points and condensor, just in case.

Brand new Y Block distributors are carried at Advance Auto and NAPA, maybe others; they are made by Cardone. Price is under $60. A nice feature is that they are all the 1965 Ford replacement design which uses an O ring seal as in the 289 SBF, instead of the prone to corrode and seize older design.

 

Have any more info on the mopar conversion?? Link, tech artical ?? thanks

 

Rick, I had an alternator when the Pertronix quit a little over a year ago. Since it only lasted 10 miles, I have been trying to find out the why(s).
I made a post about all of this recently over on the electronics forum. The moderator and a mechanic were pretty adamant about the system needing the resistor. I was running a Pertronix I and Flamethrower I without a resistor. I told them that the Flamethrower instructions said to not use the resistor, and that the Pertronix instructions said to keep the resistor inline if the stock system required such. That was when the moderator suggested the comparative electronic check between the Flamethrower and the stock coil. They were the same.
The mechanic said he had installed many Pertronix, and that most all the failures were with resistors removed. He said he had put in units lasting well over 10 years.
You referenced electronic spikes. Would an inadequate motor ground cause spikes? When the unit quit there was not a ground strap from motor to frame. I suspected the insufficient ground because when the electric rad fan would come on, the rpms would drop at idle.
Mike

 

Mike,

I think it's very possible that a poor ground could exacerbate a generator/starter spike(they don't 'cause' them though). There are many ways to "spike protect" electronics. You need to start with good clean ground connections and battery connections connections before checking other things. Hi resistance connections will produce significant voltage drops across them.

It's also possible that the unit just *failed* Mine is currently connected using the old (6v) coil. so I'm using a dropping resistor. I have not installed the "Flamethrower" 12v coil yet but the instructions indicate to remove the dropping resistor when I do. You have gotten me interested in these failure modes. I'm going to call Pertronix Tech Support and see if they might have any other info on this before I connect the new coil. I don't have an oscilloscope....It would indicate any spikes present. It's also possible for an alternator to produce voltage spikes.


I'll try to find out more on this. So far I like the Pertronix stuff...


Regards,

Rick

 

I've installed more than once a duraspark II on the y-block.
I wrote and sent to someone here the procedure once, but I can't remember who it was.
All you need is the newer style distributor (the one that looks like the ones from 289s and 302s) and about 30 minutes to get it done.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=15133

If there's anybody interested on this conversion, I'll write the procedure once again.
I have done it on my 272 and it works extremely well.

Best regards,
Lucas (Lobo)

 

I would not mind to know. thanks

 

Is the Duraspark similar to the 70-80's GM HEI ?

I installed one of those in my old 66 boat (230cu GM I6) It's amazing how well those OEM ignition systems work!

 

I’m sorry for the delay to post here the procedure. I’ve been out of town for a couple days.
What I did is pretty much the same thing that’s explained on this web site I found the other day, while trying to find out the differences between Duraspark I and Duraspark II.

http://home.cfl.rr.com/fatrichard/duraspark/eec.htm

When I did mine, a couple years ago, I wrote down what I was doing and I can’t find where are my notes. As soon as I find them, or the email I sent with the procedure, I’ll post here.

HT32BSX115, I’m not familiar with the HEI ignition system to answer something for sure, but as far as I know, they are a little different.

Best regards,
Lucas (Lobo)

 

which year duraspark dist. would I beable to put in my 64' 292? I read through the instruction but since I havent had one apart I am having trouble grasping the procedure