Does anyone have specs comparing Royal Purple to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30?

 

Specs in what regard? That's a pretty broad question. They both are a synthetic. M1 is a PAO basestock made by M/E. RP is a somewhat PAO basestock made by BP in Houston. I say somewhat as they don't release this information as to how much is actually in the mix. God help the kid that drinks any of it because it is gonna take the doctors awhile to get the info. They both have basically the same add packs. M1 may be a little better because of the boron and moly content but that may be marginal. M1 also has a decent dose of Super Syn which is an ultra high VI PAO. The RP lists the VI for this viscosity at 161 which is the same as the Motorcraft blend. M1 is listed at 169. If you look at it from the black/white perspective, the M1 has the edge. When you apply a certain amount of green (like money), the M1 is miles ahead. Both are good oils. In the online reports I have seen, the M1 will out distance the RP by a wide margin when considering oil change intervals. Wear metals don't appear to be any major issue between the two. I think it is important to know that the most expensive ingredient in the RP is the purple dye. My personal opinion, the RP, while a good oil, is grossly over priced for the value in the bottle. I also think that for the average user, synthetics have no value. If you don't have an extreme in temps, you don't need a synthetic. For the average driver, they will not add one mile to the life of your engine over a quality dino/blend. Your money, your engine.

 

Flash those are the specs I like to read. During my research on Mobil 1 vs Royal Purple I have found Mobil 1's new formula has been changed for the worse. I believe the zinc levels have been lowered to comply with a new rating. SM or SL, I'm not sure which is the newer one. This is the biggest concern I have found. I have read enough that I am trying to decide what oil to change to (I currently run Mobil1). Royal Purple seems like a good choice. I would like to see a comparison from an oil analysis. I will probably send in my Mobil 1 oil to see how it is doing then switch over to Royal Purple for a few oil changes. I want to run synthetic oil only. Thanks for the info. Any more?????

 

SM is the newest.

Actually, I don't believe the zinc level was lowered, it was the phosphates, but as most phosphates are added in the form of ZDDP, when the phosphates went down, so did the zinc.

Phosphates are believed to screw up the cat. The OEMs must now warranty the cat for 100,000 miles, so they got real **** about phosphates in the oil.

 

Hey flash, this is interesting. The plain old conventional 5w30 Mystik JT-8 oil has a VI of 161, like the RP. And it's not even a synthetic! What gives?

See here.

 

Rusty, just shows how good of basestock is used in the Mystik.

mcne, you can't go by just the zinc and phos levels. Yes they have been reduced. In their place are additives like boron and moly. Also, what won't show in spectroscopy is the antimony. Also, you will find an elevated level of sodium in your analysis. It is not coolant. M/E has gone back to using sodium as an anti-wear agent like the zinc. This is not new technology but old. Personally, I find the new formulation superior to the old as it covers far more bases. The add packs for example, zinc doesn't become effective until the temps hit around 165F. Moly comes on much higher and is a great barrier lube. But the antimony and sodium come into play at much lower temps. Add the Super Syn to the mix and they have built a pretty strong oil. But I will repeat myself, for the average driver, you don't need a synthetic as the dinos and blends in most cases will have fewer wear metals especially in the winter. I'll see what I can do to get the break down for you on the M1. I highly doubt I will have the RP but I will look.

 

Flash thanks again for any info. I would really appreciate it, as well as you further explaining how each ingredient works (like you already have). It is amazing how I have learned more from your posts than hours of surfing on the net. If it matters I am interested in 5w30. I have read different weights have different additives. Ex. the euro blend does not have the EPA restrictions the USA has, so they have better oil. Any truth to that?

 

The oils that are approved for use in Europe by far exceed the additive limits that are placed on our oils. The reason is that the Euros don't have the emmissions systems that we do. They can load an oil with zinc and others and don't have to worry about loading or destroying the cats or any sensors. They can also build an oil to go a longer distance than we can due to these limits. To say it is better, I like the oils that meet the API standards. It has forced the oil companies to make better, much better oils than we had just a few years ago. We are the beneficiaries of the newer technologies.. And better things are in the future.

Here is the link to the Mobil 5w-30 site that will give their published specs.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...bil1_5W-30.asp

In analysis, it will look similiar to this:
Moly - 90 a great barrier lube for when things get really hot. Also an anti-wear agent, extreme pressure additive, friction modifier, and an oxidation inhibitor

Boron- 75 another great anti wear agent, detergent, and extreme pressure additive

Calcium 2350 a detergent, anti-wear, and adds to the TBN

Magnesium- 15 an anti-wear agent

Phos- 675 An anti-wear agent, detergent, and a friction modifier

Zinc- 775 anti wear agent, extreme pressure additive, anti oxidant, and friction modifier

Sorry, I have nothing on the RP as I expected. RP is more noted for its industrial lubricants where RP is at the top of the game. Motor oils of theirs are not shabby by any means just over priced when compared to the performance of M1 or others.

 

Flash are those specs for the SM rated Mobil? Do you know what they were on the SL rating?

What type of oil filter do you recommed in general? I just started using the Napa Gold filter. The "Gold" seems like it has a strong following for quality and performance.

 

That would be the SM rated oil. The old SL rated oils run on the Phos around 800 and Zinc right at 1000 or a little above. The other adds would be in the same ballpark as the SM. The old SL rated oils did not have as much of the Super Syn in it.

Most oil filters will do a decent job, even the cheapys will work. The NAPA Gold is a Wix filter and the numbers are interchangeable between them. The high dollar filters don't necessarily work any better nor do they filter any more. You are paying mostly for a synthetic media to do the same job as the regular media. With filters, some will flow more oil and sacrifice filtration while others will have slower flow but do a better job at removing matter. The Wix/NAPA is a good compromise. I generally will run either a Purolator Pure One or Motorcraft on all of my blue ovals. For gas engines, most filters will exceed the requirements for a long life motor.

 

The Wix/Napa filter especially the "Gold" filter seems extremely popular on oil discussion wesites. I wonder if it is because of the good compromise as you said? I read that the Motorcraft filter's insides have been made by different manufacturers. The insides are not of the same type or quality. Have you heard of this?

Will oil analysis show the ingredients of Super Syn?

 

I read that the Motorcraft filter's insides have been made by different manufacturers. The insides are not of the same type or quality. Have you heard of this?


thye are made by purolator. however the grey ones used on new enignes are made by champion.

 

Has any testing been done to determine which of the two filters is better? How do they compare to Wix/Napa filters?

 

There are several test methods to "prove" the efficiency of oil filters but for the most part, they are worthless. There is the applied Beta Ratio. It means nothing as the criticals are not predetermined by the test criteria. There is no spec as to the viscosity, pressure, fluid rate, or temp. Only the known amount and size of the glass beads is required and the amount actually filtered. If you have a gas engine, most any of the filters out there, regardless of brand, will filter at a good enough rate that your engine will never know the difference between a cheap or expensive filter. Pick a favorite and stay with it.

 

Flash that is good news. I think I will stick with the Napa Gold filter. It looks cooler because it is painted black. j/k