OK, So I hooked a wire up from the battery to the alternator, hooked up the voltage guage, and charged the battery. Turned the key and just got a click sound. I had one of those pedestal style soleniods and never liked it so I went out and bought the traditional style. Hooked everything up, re-charged the battery and got the same thing. Just a click everytime I turn the key.

Every single thing on this engine has been replaced except for one- the starter. The starter was the only semi-clean part on the engine when I tore it down so I assumed it was new. What do you think folks...dead starter?

Also I noticed that the battery cable from the battery to the soleniod looked a little melted and it was hot when I took it off the battery but only after I had kept trying to start it. (Someone told me that could be the sign of a starter going bad)

This might be a dumb question but is it possible for a fresh engine to start right up, run fine for 8-10 minutes, good oil pressure, temp just fine, then shut down and completely lock up and be ruined? Everything seemed to turn fine when I built the motor and on subsequent crankings while trying to build oil pressure.

One thing I left out was that when I was cranking it over the first couple of times I had the push button wired inbetween the switch and the solenoid. The engine would start and run while I had my finger on the switch and then die when I took my finger off. This happened about 3-4 times before I got smart and just took the starter button off and hardwired it and it started and ran fine. So each time I was cranking the the engine and taking my finger off the button and then pushing it back in as the motor started dying I was probably smakcing the starter pretty good against a running motor.

Please tell me it is the starter and not the motor!!!

 

This may not be your problem but: I have an old 1954 Ford 600 tractor, which periodically, like every two years, just clicks a couple of times when I try to start it, not turning over. I have had the tractor for 12 years. The problem has been one of the following:
1. Corroded battery terminals.
2. Inadequate contact at the starter cable.
3. Battery with dead cells.
I would check those things, and then take your starter into a rebuild shop, who will probably check it out for free.

 

Everything (except the starter) is brand spanking new: wiring harness, abttery, cables, you name it. I'm really hoping I just cooked the starter.

 

I hope so too. Still check all the connnections mentioned and starter. Cant believe it is a frozen motor. Can you turn the motor over manually with a breakover on the damper bolt?

 

After that hand crank check, you might try jumping from the pos (assume you are 12 neg gnd) on the battery straight to the pos post on the starter. Might indicate toasted solenoid or need for a fresh set of cables ( I used the heavier 6V type just to make sure)

If it only ran with that dash starter button in, you need to double check the ignition switch wiring.

We're on your side prayin the Y isnt seized! They are tough motors and I doubt an idle speed seizure would be terminal.

 

Same here. Hope its something easy that was possibly overlooked that gets it back on the road ASAP.

 

I'd be checking all the grounds. You should have;

• A large cable running from the neg term on the battery to the engine,
• a strap or another large wire between the engine and the frame, and
• a hefty (8 gauge?) wire running from the engine to the firewall.

All connections should be to clean, bare metal. Don't use a battery cable with one of those phony 'emergency' clamps. They're crap.

 

Well the good news is I finally had a chance to put a breaker bar on it and it truns over just fine. I think it has to be the starter. At least I can sleep a little easire tonight. The starter was the one thing I didn't replace because it looked to be in decent shape.

 

Good Deal!