Motor mounts on a 2.3L??
#1
#2
Join Date: May 2004
Location: The hills of No. Calif.
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I would check the mounts first. Get down there and take a good look at them, look for oil that might have softened the rubber or outright cracking of the rubber. Put a floor jack with a piece of 2X6 on top of it to spread the load under the pan or bellhousing and jack it up slowly while watching the mounts to see if they separate. Be sure to check the rear mount on the tranny while you're at it.
If there is a lot of movement or they actually are broken, it's not difficult to replace them. Do them one-at-a-time, find a place on the engine near the mount to jack the engine up enough to clear the mount after you have removed the mount bolts from the engine and the crossmember. Just pull the mount up and out and then replace with the new one.
Remember, if you jack directly on the pan, use a board to spread the load and cushion the pan from the jack and don't force anything or you could end up crushing your pan. This is not a good thing.
If there is a lot of movement or they actually are broken, it's not difficult to replace them. Do them one-at-a-time, find a place on the engine near the mount to jack the engine up enough to clear the mount after you have removed the mount bolts from the engine and the crossmember. Just pull the mount up and out and then replace with the new one.
Remember, if you jack directly on the pan, use a board to spread the load and cushion the pan from the jack and don't force anything or you could end up crushing your pan. This is not a good thing.
#3
I think it would be better to jack up the front of the engine using the nose of the crank. Pulleys and dampeners can take the strain easily, and are easy to get to. If you do use the pan, definitely spread the load using a piece of 2X6 or 2X4.
A separated front mount will allow the engine to torque over to one side, but generally not the other. Inspection and use of a piece of wood as a pry bar will moslty show a faulty front mount. Transmission lube can make the rearmost mount a piece of jello, but that will mostly not affect side-to-side rocking motions. It is there for weight support and to keep the drive line straight.
tom
A separated front mount will allow the engine to torque over to one side, but generally not the other. Inspection and use of a piece of wood as a pry bar will moslty show a faulty front mount. Transmission lube can make the rearmost mount a piece of jello, but that will mostly not affect side-to-side rocking motions. It is there for weight support and to keep the drive line straight.
tom
#4
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I agree, it's just that it can be a little tough to get to the dampener, depending on application. I have had to stand a piece of 2X4 up on end and feed it up between the crossmember and the drag link to get it under the dampener since there wasn't enough room for the ifting pad of the jack to get up in there, a situation that can be a little shaky. Plus, lifting directly on the dampner will raise the front of the engine straight up rather than from one side or the other. I have to admit, it's the way I generally do it but you just have to get creative sometimes in order to apply the lifting force just where you want it. I have also lifted an engine from the side by standing a block on end under a pan rail rather then jacking directly on the pan, but I didn't like the stabilty of that much either.
Last edited by TigerDan; 09-30-2005 at 08:30 AM.
#7
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#8
The engine hoist idea sounds to me like the safest bet, just do one at a time and get it done with. I dont much care for lifting the engine from the underside, and risk it either falling, and crushing either me, or the engine itself being damaged, so I prefer to safely lift from the top and have more room to maneuver too.
#10
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