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The rotors...they just won't come off.

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Old 09-27-2005, 07:50 PM
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The rotors...they just won't come off.

97 F-150 4x4

I've been working on this all afternoon. I've had no luck getting the rotors to budge. I soaked them with plenty of PB Blaster and I've been beating on them with a 3lb sledge with no avail. I also tried heating them with a Burnz-o-matic but that didn't really do much (15 minutes and they were only warm). Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:19 AM
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:28 AM
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Loosen the lug nuts about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, drive vehicle slowly about 10-20 feet. apply breaks hard, that should break them loose
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:45 AM
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Unfortunately, a big 'ol hammer may be your last resort. If want to try to keep the rotors, you could try using a piece of 2x4 for the hammer to hit and protect the rotor. This is kind of common on this truck. As a matter of fact, I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine and told him I'm gonna have to do my brakes and I'll be buying rotors. He said he had to beat them off of the last couple of trucks/expeditions he did. If you decide to replace the rotors, slap some anti-seize on the back where they contact the hub and it will help protect them from freezing to the hub. Good luck.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:09 PM
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let the pb sit over night them beat the crap out of them they will come off, but I would not reuse them def replace after a beating like that.

Lance
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:10 PM
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I've actually had the rotors break in half from hitting them so hard to remove them. There just isn't enough clearance between the hub and the rotor to allow for any corrosion as the vehicle ages.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:11 PM
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thanks for the replies guys, I'll go out and continue beating on them. I would try Beechkid's suggestion but the truck isn't running at the moment due to a bad fuel pump, lol long list of fixes this week.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:39 PM
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No, No, No. Do not beat them. Take out a sawzall, cut a groove, then pull out a cold chisel and fracture the center. Do a search if you want more details. Takes a few minutes, and is really clean. I used a whizwheel to start the groove near the hub.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:19 PM
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thanks for the tip, I searched last night but didn't come across the thread I just found (the bolt trick)..lots of good tips in there, it should be stickied.
 
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:43 PM
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I used a MAP gas torch on mine and beat them with a heavy ballpeen hammer. They popped after a bit. It took me several periods of heating and then allowing them to cool.

Anyways... good luck.
 
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Old 09-29-2005, 05:15 AM
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Talking

dont beat on them you will just ruin your bearings...use a die grinder and go in 1/2" from the edge of the huband cut appox. 3/16" deep 3/4" of the way around the rotor and then take a chisel put in in the middle of where you cut..just one hit with a hammer will "pop" them loose ...i have found this is the best way as not to heat up the bearings or beat them to death....
good luck
 
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by PrimaryZMan
thanks for the tip, I searched last night but didn't come across the thread I just found (the bolt trick)..lots of good tips in there, it should be stickied.
The bolt trick does not always work, and if you have been beating the heck out of them anyays, it may not work. If you are throwing the suckers out anyway, cutting is the easiest in my mind. They actually cut pretty easy with a Sawzall. Just start a little around the hub to make a scribe mark for when you put a cold metal chisel in the groove and whack it. It will crack, open up and pull em right off.

Real easy.

Now, if you plan on turning them, this is obviously not the way to go.
 
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Old 09-29-2005, 04:50 PM
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they came off with the bolt trick snap, crackle, POP, and they were loose, took a while longer on the passenger side since I hadn't been beating on that side for two days, lol.
 
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Old 09-29-2005, 06:07 PM
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um... is the bolt trick where one unloosens the nuts, then drives it? If not, I'm missing something.

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-29-2005, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GammaDriver
um... is the bolt trick where one unloosens the nuts, then drives it? If not, I'm missing something.

Thanks!
no, you put a 1/2" bolt thru the caliper mount, put a nut on it, and tighten it so the bolt presses against the back of the rotor, keep tightening it, hit it with a hammer, rotate the rotor and tighten the bolts untill it pops off. I also learned today using a grade 8 is a good idea...especially if the rotors are REALLY stuck on there.
 



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