1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck
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Sounds good to me! I want to sell the '77 because I just bought the '66 (love it). I just rebuilt the engine in the '77 and the one in the '66 is about 10 years running at best so it's natural that I want to sawp the two over.
It would be ideal to move the Duraspark electronics from the '77 to the '66 but I believe that might be a little difficult. Do you guys think that I could swap motor, harness and all and still have two running trucks (and if so how?....LOL!)?
All I need is a running '77 to sell and the '66 is on it's way to a nice resto-mod. I have always wanted a '65-'66 so this one is going to get pampered very well.
geno! I'd guess that after you pull all the stuff you need for the 66 off the 77 there will not be a lot left of the 77. In fact you may be ahead to move the 66 sheet metal over to the 77 frame. This gets all the more modern features of the 77 with the classy looks of a 66. The sheet metal swap is common here in this forum. Wheel base adjustments are the most significant issues and mounting the bed (brackets or new holes). After that its a simple swap. The remains of the trucks can be sold for parts and scrap. I looked for a good running six a while back and when I found a good running 460 that became the power of choice. The market for 6 cylinders is limited but if you have time you will be able to sell or trade most of the extra parts.
William in Atlanta has retired to St. George Utah!
Thanks for the reply William. That is some neat stuff but I really need to have both trucks running. Both of them are in great shape and both are basic F-100's. I just want to put the 240 in the '77 to sell and was wondering if it was possible. The 300 makes some pretty good HP (a lot better than the 240) and I think that for what I want to do (a street cruiser that looks stock) the 300 is a good choice with minimal swapping woes.
I do need to know if the 240 and the 300 share the same flywheel and clutch assembly though.
To my knowldedge the clutch and flywheel are the same. Here is one difference I am positive of. If you try to keep the point distributor you may likely have to swap over the intake and carburetor. Reson being in 66 Ford 240/300 six's used the Loadomatic distributor and carburetor combination. These parts can only be used as a matching set. If you mix and match either distribtor or carburetor with non Loadomatic parts you will not be able to achieve proper vacuum advance. Furthermore you will drive youself crazy trying to figure out why.
The 77 model you have probably has a Carter YF carb which is much superior to the stock 66 job. The 66 probably has a nasty Autolite 1100 or maybe a Holley if your lucky. Most folks are going to say go for the Duraspark ignition so all you may need to do is drop the newer stuff in and figure out how to wire it up. Somebody here can help out with that part, I hope. I prefer an original apearance so I still use the points. If you would like to keep the original look with the benifits of electronic you can install a point distributor and Pertronix electronic conversion. A lot of people are doing that. I am considering it myself. Way better than a bunch of cut & spliced wires.
I sure didn't know that about the '66 carb/dist setup. I see now that I could drop the '77 300 engine into the '66 and maybe buy a distributor for it that is not a Duraspark unit.
My problem comes up when I want to put the '66 240 engine into the '77 truck because if I try to use the '77 Duraspark Distributor it will break up the Loadomatic combination that will give me vacuum advance troubles. Hmmmm....I'm gonna figure this one out sooner or later.
Thank you for your very knowledgeable response!
BTW - I have been using Pertronix kits in my restored Mach 1 mustangs for more than 15 years....back when they were named Perlux (the original manufacturer).
UPDATE - Looks like if I buy a new carb and a new dist. that will fix me up (duh) and ditch the LoadOmatic stuff altogether. I don't need to be bone stock...I just want a stock look. Can't wait to add A/C, disc brakes, and PWR STRG. I guess the sky is the limit. All of the vehicles that I have owned (and still do....I can't seem to part with much) are all concours correct. I'm ready to bring something to life my way, not the factory's way for a change!
Hey Geno, I don't know for sure that you actually have the worthless Loadomatic setup. With many trucks, even trucks with original engines the Loadocrapic stuff has been eliminated by someone through the years. If you have a Carter or a Holley then you probably do not have the LM setup.
You are right about that swap up to the 77 truck. The mix will not work. Your idea about getting a new carb and distributor is probably the best for the 66. I think everyone mentions a Clifford intake with a 2bbl Holley somewhere around 300 cfm. (SOMEBODY MAY NEED TO BACK ME ON THE SPECIFICS IN SIZE). Also the later fuel injected exhaust manifold seems to be a popular upgrade. Actually the larger carb if teemed with a good flowing exhaust will increase your gas mileage. If you eliminate the drag of the radiator fan you may be able to afford to run that air conditioner you want.
I learned these tips here on theis forum to tell the truth but I actually have none of them. My truck does everything it was designed to do just fine in its nearly bone stock form. As I said I am considering the Pertronix. Also I am thinking hard on doing the electric cooling fan. Its all about gas mileage folks!
Yes, the 66 cab onto the 77 frame. That's what William was also suggesting.
Look at it this way. How much is a 77 with a 240 worth, even in pretty good condition, probably under $1000, and probably a whole lot less.
Now, what does your 77 have that want on your 66.
1) Power steering -- costs at least $200 and more like $400 to get the parts to do it to the 66.
2) Power brakes -- about $300 plus effort, new lines etc.
3) 31 spline rear axels -- not likely to be much better than 28 behind a 300, but hey.
4) larger rear drums to stop with.
5) wider rear frame with fuel tank between the rails.
6) compressor mounts and pump for AC
The whole front clip and cab just moves as one unit from the 66 to the 77. That is the rad support, fenders, cab. Behind the cab, things are a little trickier. Are they the same wheel base? If they are the same, or close, you can make it work pretty easy. There a threads about dealing with the minor differences. You will need to drill new holes for the bed.
You are looking at a lot of work to swap the two engines. If the 77 is really in that good of shape that you are thinking that wasting the cab is a shame, then get some patience. Go looking for a 77 (72-78) that is the correct wheel base, has the engine and tranny you like, and is rusted out or been through a minor accident. Then sell the 77, buy the junker for less and do the swap on it.
Its what I SHOULD have done.
1965 F100, 240 I6, 4pd T-18, swapped to C4, Pertronix, Front Disk Swap, PS Upgrade. Bought by my dad when I was 6 months old. 2004 EB Expedition for towing.
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