My daughter's 1989 Ranger with a 2.3L started leaking antifreeze this past week. I got under it and finally found the leak...headgasket at the right front corner.

So...I begin the procedure of replacing the head gasket. I have the exhaust manifold, intake, timing belt, yadda, yadda, yadda off. Now here is my problem.

I don't have a 8 point 13 mm socket for the gead bolts. I substitute a 1/2 8 point and crank the right front bolt 1/4 turn (like the book says to), and move to the left front bolt. I can't get the socket on the bolt...there is some type of notch machined into the head. Is there a special socket that I need? Where would I procure one?

 

I just took a quick peek at my books, they say nothing about your problem. Obviously you have the Haynes manual, since they give that 1/4 turn incremental bolt removal procedure. Huh. The Chilton's just says, "Remove the cylinder head attaching bolts."

Usually, you can get by with substituting 1/2" for 13mm, they are so close. I just can't picture the interference problem you describe. Any chance you could take a pic and post it? Do you have a digital camera?

I have an earlier 2.3 at work, I'll take a look at it tomorrow. It's an '86, so I don't believe they're quite the same but I'll check.

 

I think that you have to have a thin-walled socket fit into the notch around the headbolt. If you are using a less-expensive brand of sockets, they will sometimes substitute more metal for strength, thus the thicker walls. Go to your nearest store selling quality sockets, carrying your 1/2" for comparison. I expect you will see the thickness at the business end to be significantly thinner on a 'high-priced' tool.
If memory is working (hah), it seems to me that I had no problem using a Craftsman socket on my 2.3. Of course, I didn't remove the head, just drained coolant, loosened the head bolts, and re-torqued them. I had a slight oil leak at the rear of the head, where the oil comes up around the driver side rearmost head bolt. I figured it couldn't hurt to re-torque the head bolts, and it worked.
tom

 

I am meeting the Snap On guy later today. I am hoping that will do the trick. I will report back one way or the other.

 

What an idiot I turned out to be. That notch isn't machined in the head...it's the freakin' bolt that I put back in that threads through the head (timing belt tentioner).


Sorry to bother ya'll, and I sure am glad no one was in the shop when I figured this out.

 

No bother, that's what we're here for! And now we all know: Don't put the timing belt tensioner bolt back in too far so that it interferes with the socket! We could write our own repair manual, have to be better than Haynes or Chiltons!

 

Our repair manual would likely be so accurate, and helpful, that haynes, and chilton would go bankrupt, and totally dissappear from the earth. we'd be likely to actually have a manual that REALLY helps to make things work right, and in words the average joe understands.

 

Hmm, I see a new business op. on the horizon...FTE repair manuals!

 

GO TigerDan GO! All good things are created with the start with a thought!

 

sears has the 13mm, 1/2 inch drive socket so you can do it right. The 1/2 socket when you torque them may slip and round off the bolt. Then try to get it out. I've had a few brought to me like that.