A challenge: 20 mpg in a 460/429
#16
In terms of basic physics, it's about the conversion of chemical potential energy into kinetic energy of various sorts, and how efficiently this can be done.
There are two aspects to motive efficiency: chemical to physical (how efficient our motors are), and 'physical' (how efficiently we can use the energy we produce).
I just wish I knew the heck how to do it with a 460 in a one ton towing a boat.
There are two aspects to motive efficiency: chemical to physical (how efficient our motors are), and 'physical' (how efficiently we can use the energy we produce).
I just wish I knew the heck how to do it with a 460 in a one ton towing a boat.
#18
#22
#23
Milege is relative
Yah. I was also going to say that I'd like to hear how some of you got over 10mpg,
then I got to thinking that not all you guys have your 460s in an 11,000# rig.
Now if I can get one of you 460 gurus to help me get mine starting right, I'll go back to dumping gas out my tail pipe.
then I got to thinking that not all you guys have your 460s in an 11,000# rig.
Now if I can get one of you 460 gurus to help me get mine starting right, I'll go back to dumping gas out my tail pipe.
#24
My roller fulcrums will be here on wednesday. I got valve stem seals today, I'll make a combined project when they come in. my F-600 weights around 11,000 empty 9(crewcab) with 9R22.5s and 6:14 gears I wish it had OD but its a regular 5-sp.
I swapped out the 370 2v carb and intake, in favor of a DOVE intake and 1411 edelbrock carb, it idles with 20# of vac, up from 18, cant wait to see how it takes donner grade next week...
I swapped out the 370 2v carb and intake, in favor of a DOVE intake and 1411 edelbrock carb, it idles with 20# of vac, up from 18, cant wait to see how it takes donner grade next week...
#26
I'm shocked no ones brought up Project MPG. you can find the details on
performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg
They got about a 40% increase overall in HW MPG. And they kept it simple, no major overhall projects.
The thing to think about in this is how much $$ goes in to it and how long it takes to recoup that $$ in terms of miles
performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg
They got about a 40% increase overall in HW MPG. And they kept it simple, no major overhall projects.
The thing to think about in this is how much $$ goes in to it and how long it takes to recoup that $$ in terms of miles
#27
Originally Posted by yugami
I'm shocked no ones brought up Project MPG. you can find the details on
performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg
They got about a 40% increase overall in HW MPG. And they kept it simple, no major overhall projects.
The thing to think about in this is how much $$ goes in to it and how long it takes to recoup that $$ in terms of miles
performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg
They got about a 40% increase overall in HW MPG. And they kept it simple, no major overhall projects.
The thing to think about in this is how much $$ goes in to it and how long it takes to recoup that $$ in terms of miles
#29
increase efficency, and lowering friction go a long way.
use 5-30 instead of 10-40 (or 20-50) and you will notice a small difference, keep the tires inflated to the max recommended pressure, double roller timing chain, roller rockers,low restriction air filter,better flowing exhaust system, all work.
in my 96 econoline, it gets about 11 on 89 octane, but it gets 14-16 on 91 octane, so its actually cheaper per mile to get premium, so you could try running premium and advancing teh timing accordingly.
just a few thoughts...
use 5-30 instead of 10-40 (or 20-50) and you will notice a small difference, keep the tires inflated to the max recommended pressure, double roller timing chain, roller rockers,low restriction air filter,better flowing exhaust system, all work.
in my 96 econoline, it gets about 11 on 89 octane, but it gets 14-16 on 91 octane, so its actually cheaper per mile to get premium, so you could try running premium and advancing teh timing accordingly.
just a few thoughts...
#30
Try low friction coatings. Coat the pistons, crank & rod journals, camshaft, wheel bearings, ring and pinion, and anything thing else that moves.
Use a standard transmission with overdrive.
Don't use a locker rear.
Don't use 4x4.
Run moly lube in the engine, gear box, and differential.
Use rollers not sliding friction: roller cam, roller rocker, roller cam bearings, roller main bearings.
Knife edge the crank or run a dry sump system to avoid losses while mixing up the oil. Or at least a baffle, crank scrapper, and windage tray.
Headers and dual exhaust.
Ported heads
Light weight valves and valve springs - less energy to compress the spring.
Figure a way to disable the V8 to a V4 (ala Northstar Caddy). It needs to leave the intake valve closed and open the exhaust so the the pumping losses are less.
Don't lift the truck - drop it or use a wind fairing like the diesel trucks do now.
Use thermal coating on the piston and combustion chamber to increase thermal efficiency.
Use thermal coatings on the engine and the oil pan to reject heat.
Use thermal coating on headers to keep heat in and increase scavaging effect.
Use thermal coating on intake to keep intake charge cool.
Optomize the ignition. Run advace until knock under load then back off for full rpm range.
Optomize air fuel ratio. Run lean. Use an Oxygen meter to set jets or reprogram the ECU to run lean.
Run an aluminum driveshaft. Use aluminum flywheel. Use aluminum rods. Use aluminum block. Use aluminum heads (last two for weight reduction).
Dynamically balance the engine to 1 gram at 7000 rpm.
Use a switch to cut out the alternator.
Use an electric water pump.
Use an electrically driven fan.
Use MSD ignition. Open the spark gap up on the plugs. For highway run cold plugs (if your going to run it lean).
Drive down hill with a tail wind or get someone to push/pull you.
Use a standard transmission with overdrive.
Don't use a locker rear.
Don't use 4x4.
Run moly lube in the engine, gear box, and differential.
Use rollers not sliding friction: roller cam, roller rocker, roller cam bearings, roller main bearings.
Knife edge the crank or run a dry sump system to avoid losses while mixing up the oil. Or at least a baffle, crank scrapper, and windage tray.
Headers and dual exhaust.
Ported heads
Light weight valves and valve springs - less energy to compress the spring.
Figure a way to disable the V8 to a V4 (ala Northstar Caddy). It needs to leave the intake valve closed and open the exhaust so the the pumping losses are less.
Don't lift the truck - drop it or use a wind fairing like the diesel trucks do now.
Use thermal coating on the piston and combustion chamber to increase thermal efficiency.
Use thermal coatings on the engine and the oil pan to reject heat.
Use thermal coating on headers to keep heat in and increase scavaging effect.
Use thermal coating on intake to keep intake charge cool.
Optomize the ignition. Run advace until knock under load then back off for full rpm range.
Optomize air fuel ratio. Run lean. Use an Oxygen meter to set jets or reprogram the ECU to run lean.
Run an aluminum driveshaft. Use aluminum flywheel. Use aluminum rods. Use aluminum block. Use aluminum heads (last two for weight reduction).
Dynamically balance the engine to 1 gram at 7000 rpm.
Use a switch to cut out the alternator.
Use an electric water pump.
Use an electrically driven fan.
Use MSD ignition. Open the spark gap up on the plugs. For highway run cold plugs (if your going to run it lean).
Drive down hill with a tail wind or get someone to push/pull you.