Pictures of oil relief valve in filter housing.

[Kwikkordead]

Originally Posted by The Grinch Kwik, I am repairing a leaking oil cooler. I have the ends free but am unable to pull the cooler out due to clearance with the engine/frame. How can I lift the engine without lifting from the oil pan? A bottle jack on the engine mount? Plus 3 parts came out of the rear/oil filter housing. The spring I see above and 2 hollw cylinders, one fits into the other. How does it all go back together because I don't think they were supposed to come out. I would use (rent one if you don't have one) a cherry picker and lift it from above. It's the only safe way to do it. An alternative is get a come-along and attach it to an overhead beam capable of holding the weight, remove the hood and lift it that way. That beam would need to be stout. 2x4 roof joists need not apply.

[The Grinch]

Kwik, is there a good place to hook up to on the left side of the motor? I am only lifting the left side enough, a couple of inches, to pull out the oil cooler and end caps.

[Kwikkordead]

Isn't there a lifting stirrup on the left front? I know for sure there is on the RR because I took mine off and stored it.

[The Grinch]

I'll check, but the only one I have seen is on the right side. I have enough info now to make it work. I just need to figure out the 3 pices that came out of the gasket side of the rear oil cooler mount. The 2 hollow cylinders, on fits inside the other, and the spring. Any ideas on this? Thanks!

[BobbyDiesel71]

Originally Posted by Kwikkordead

Yeah, get the parts necessary and a good circlip tool. I used a 3/8" socket extension to hold the assembly in place while I worked the circlip up into it's groove. The male part of the extension fits perfectly into the hole and the shoulder pushes on the washer. It all wants to jump apart with the spring pressure until you get it securely pushed up into the hole where you can install the circlip. Don't force it you'll break the wafer against the guide ribs in the inside if misaligned. That was the PITA, it kept wanting to go sideways and several times it jumped out on me and I had to go fishing for it across the shop floor.

what is the reason for this fix?
just curious

[kawika]

Originally Posted by toyota hauler

what is the reason for this fix?
just curious

Bob,

Sometimes the oil relief valve pops out of the hole and without it you are using unfiltered oil thru your motor. You are wanting to make sure the oil relief valve is in every time you change your filter.

So when you take out your filter and see some parts, do not throw them away.

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

you do not need to pull the engine to remove and replace the oil cooler. I did before on a job i was doing. Remove the oil filter, drain the crankcase oil, and leave the plug out. Remove two bolts holding the front header, and three on the rear. Then seperate the gaskets, and pull the oil cooler backwards, and down at the rear first. Lots of coolant will come out of the cooler when you seperate the gaskets, so be prepared for a shower, and you will even get some in the oil pan, the port that the oil outlet returns to the sump. Let the plug out and then it will all drain out. Also when you tilt the cooler, oil and water will come out and fall everywhere. Keep your mouth closed (don't ask). It isn't hard to do, i thought. If you have a stock style water pump, removing the lower hose and the inlet neck will make the front bolts alot easier to get to.

[The Grinch]

I have done all that. Yes, pulling the cooler off was a messy job. Oil and Coolant everywhere, lots of shop rags and stains on the driveway that will last for years! My problem is I can't separate the cooler into pieces on the truck. It will have to be removed as a unit to pull apart later. Too much rust on the cooler to make an easy separation. But I don't have enough room to just pull the cooler out without lifting the engine a small bit. The other problem was the 3 parts that I found that popped out of the flat side of the oil filter end of the rear oil cooler mount. 2 hollow cylinders and one large spring that looks like the spring in the relief valve pic. How do they go back into the engine side of the filter mount. Don 't want to obstruck the oil flow by putting them back wrong.

[WA.Ranger]

Costco sells some stuff called "oil eater" that will take every stitch of oil out of your driveway; at least it did mine when I dropped the filter one time.

[kawa]

If the relief valve port in the filter assembly is UN-damaged then I would think that a "Wafer" could be made from a thin, sturdy piece of material such as plastic, phenolic, etc as long as it is impervious to oils.

It is a necessary part of the oil system and if push comes to shove then the replacement of the entire filter housing assembly is your next step.

This thread sure makes one wonder how many other defective oil relief valves may be out there as I for one have never even looked nor did I know that it was even there. I will check mine at the next oil change.

Rog

[superduty4x4]

Dredging up old dead posts again Rog?