I need to replace the upper and lower ball joints on both sides in my '99 Ranger XLT (2WD), and while I read the technical article here on replacing the lower ball joints, I still have a few questions/concerns about the process. This will be my first ball joint removal in a while, and the first on this truck.

I have the Chilton's manual, but it provides info that seems contradictory. It mentions that '98-'99 Rangers have torsion bars, but for the life of me, I don't see any on my truck. Secondly, it makes no mention of front coil springs, but I have coil springs on my truck. Anyone care to clarify that?

As far as the coil springs go, what's the safest procedure for doing the upper and lower ball joints if you plan on removing them both? It's been instilled in me by more than one person about the deadly nature of coil springs - I don't want to get killed by a compressed coil spring because I disconnect the ball joint setup in the wrong order. Do I need a floor jack under the lower control arm to start, and if so, why?

Finally, as I understand it, on these trucks the lower ball joint can be pressed out without removing the lower control arm. Can the upper ball joint be 1. ordered, and 2. if so, can the old one be removed without taking out the whole upper control arm assy?


Any help really appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith
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I just replaced both upper and lower ball joints on a '99 Ranger. I removed the coil springs by removing shocks then put a chain thru the coils and then disconnecting the lower ball joint and the spring came out. compress the chain as much as possible when you hook the chain, or go get a spring compressor(probably better). Harbor Freight has a ball joint press. I heated the control arms with a torch and had the joints in the freazer(?) overnight and kept them in ice water untill just before installing them. You need a floor jack to lower the lower control arm. Hope this helps!!!!!!!
John

 

Welcome to FTE!

Only the '99 4WD and Edge models have torsion bars. Your 2WD XLT uses coil springs.

 

Jack it up under the lower control arm.. this will keep everything in place and you won't need to remove the coil spring.

Remove the wheel, and then take the tie rods loose from the steering knuckle (if you turn the wheels left/right with the engine off it will suck air into the power steering and cause a nasty vibration... by taking the tie rod off first you won't have to worry about this happening)

Remove the steering knuckle.. also be sure to unplug the ABS sensor (if equipped)...

Remove the snap ring around the lower ball joint and hammer it out... position the new ball joint in it's place... tap lightly.. just enough to make it stay in place... start the castle-nut a few threads... put a 2X4 under the ball joint stud... lower the stud onto the 2X4 by lowering the jack slowly until you see the control arm start to compress the spring more...

Hammer on the control arm around the ball joint it and should slide in with each blow... when all the way in install snap ring and grease fitting. Jack vehicle back up under control arm and remove castlenut.

The upper ball joint should be replaced with the control arm assembly, unless it has already been replaced, in which you may be able to service the ball joint separately.. in which case go ahead and remove the two bolts and remove the control arm.. just pay attention how the offset washers are orientated... the left side can be a pain as the fuel lines get in the way of the bolts but if you hold your tongue right and get creative it can be done. Make sure the bolts are seated completely in the grooves before you torque them down (you'll see what i mean when you remove them).

Your right side upper control arm may be a two piece design, which makes replacement much much easier... only need to remove the outer part, unless the new part is a one piece. (you can still get the outer part through motorcraft.. don't know about the aftermarkets).

Reinstall steering knuckle... tighten ball joint nuts... reinstall tie rod ends... reinstall brake calipers... plug in abs sensors.. install cotter pins.. lube the grease fittings... reinstall wheel.. good to go.

Now keep in mind your 99 might be slightly different (alot different if it is twin i-beam but i doubt it is)... I'm used to doing the torsion bar types... but if memory serves me right the coil spring isn't much different.. just make sure that floor jack stays under the control arm to keep the spring compressed... at least until you have the ball joints hooked back up

good luck