door lock removal
#1
#2
Chris,
At an elevation equal to lock cyl itself, on outside of door frame, concealed under the weather strip, is a metal spring clip with a tab on it. Tab faces toward inside of cab.
Pull it outward with a firm tug to release cylinder mounting in outer door skin.
Then inside door interior is a rod held to actuating lever of lock cylinder with another type of spring clip, it has a dual eyelet. The body of the clip snaps over lock rod itself.
Release locking part from rod lifting clip up slightly. Remove rod from lock cyl lever by pulling "L" formed part of rod free. DON'T DROP CLIP INTO DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY!
Lock cylinder should remove by pulling outward from door skin & lowering or slightly moving sideways to get lock cyl lever through hole in door skin.
You can purchase Lock cylinder sets which include both door lock cylinders & ignition lock cylinder with 2 sets of keys. Deluxe set includes a glovebox lock cylinder in case you happen to have a locking glove box, a rare but optional item back in the day, for CC equipped units.
To reinstall lock cyls reverse ordered sequence. Don't for get to use lubricants.
FBp
At an elevation equal to lock cyl itself, on outside of door frame, concealed under the weather strip, is a metal spring clip with a tab on it. Tab faces toward inside of cab.
Pull it outward with a firm tug to release cylinder mounting in outer door skin.
Then inside door interior is a rod held to actuating lever of lock cylinder with another type of spring clip, it has a dual eyelet. The body of the clip snaps over lock rod itself.
Release locking part from rod lifting clip up slightly. Remove rod from lock cyl lever by pulling "L" formed part of rod free. DON'T DROP CLIP INTO DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY!
Lock cylinder should remove by pulling outward from door skin & lowering or slightly moving sideways to get lock cyl lever through hole in door skin.
You can purchase Lock cylinder sets which include both door lock cylinders & ignition lock cylinder with 2 sets of keys. Deluxe set includes a glovebox lock cylinder in case you happen to have a locking glove box, a rare but optional item back in the day, for CC equipped units.
To reinstall lock cyls reverse ordered sequence. Don't for get to use lubricants.
FBp
#3
#4
Originally Posted by fordcoop
I am looking to get a same key set for ignition and door locks on my 65. Is there a good source for buying these lock sets? Saw some on ebay and on Macs. Not sure if quality is the same. I am assuming procedure is the same for 65 as decribed above?
#5
Pete...I have never seen a truck before 72 with the lock clips you can pull w/o pulling the door panel...also, aside from the big spring clip on the inside, theres a jesus clip attaching the link rod to the lock itself...pry lock tab up and slide clip away from lock cam on the cylinder...rod will slide thru the hole in the lock and off truck now...keep in mind, when reinstalling, you will need that jesus clip to lock the rod and keep it from rattling and possibly binding up or falling off in the future.
- cs65
- cs65
#6
I appreciate the advice. However, in a stroke of amazing luck, I found a key to the doors! It was in the ashtray under a bunch of bolts and coins. Someone in the past must have changed out the ignition, so the keys don't match. I went and had a new key made right away, and it's good to go!
#7
Camper -- I think Pete was talking about the same thing you are talking about. 61-66 at least, you gotta take the inner door pannel off, pull that "clip do-hickey" off that hold the cylinder in there, then manage to get the "jesus clip" or "do-hickey with "L" shaped lip" to let go of your connecting rod.
Once you have it apart (taking the latch out is not really that bad of an idea, as you can then look at it and understand how it all works, making the re-assembly process much easier), you have to figure out how to reverse the process. You get good at it after the 8th time!!!!
I bought a set of cylinders off ebay, listed for MUSTANG -- they were cheaper than for trucks and turn out to be identical. Quality seemed fine. Came with ignition tumbler too, and once I figured out how to take the ignition switch out, I got them all installed.
One key, all the locks work. Nice.......
Once you have it apart (taking the latch out is not really that bad of an idea, as you can then look at it and understand how it all works, making the re-assembly process much easier), you have to figure out how to reverse the process. You get good at it after the 8th time!!!!
I bought a set of cylinders off ebay, listed for MUSTANG -- they were cheaper than for trucks and turn out to be identical. Quality seemed fine. Came with ignition tumbler too, and once I figured out how to take the ignition switch out, I got them all installed.
One key, all the locks work. Nice.......
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#9
#10
Chris...If the key you found in the ashtray was an original Ford key Id get a couple copies made and put the original away...my original key vs the spare for mine is so different in the cut...and key design...my original is gold with ford stamped at top with grooves between keyring triangle and the cut part of key....
Any other old Fords that have same lock cylinders/ign. switch tumbler...falcon or full size ???
- cs65
Any other old Fords that have same lock cylinders/ign. switch tumbler...falcon or full size ???
- cs65
#11
Resurrecting thread...
Just to add my 2 cents for posterity in this thread. This is how I did it after reading the instructions here
I first removed these 3 big screws. You'll need a big phillips screwdriver. You can then push in the mechanism locking the door.
Then I removed these other 3 screws with a phillips again. You can't see it in the picture, but there's a tiny screw hidden under the handle. Remove it too. You can then take off the said handle.
Then, you have to remove the clip with the tab that holds the cylinder. Simply take a wrench and pull it firmly. The cylinder should move freely now.
The final step is to remove that steel rod that you see on the upper right of the picture. It ends in a hook, so simply move the part it holds around until the hook comes off.
I first removed these 3 big screws. You'll need a big phillips screwdriver. You can then push in the mechanism locking the door.
Then I removed these other 3 screws with a phillips again. You can't see it in the picture, but there's a tiny screw hidden under the handle. Remove it too. You can then take off the said handle.
Then, you have to remove the clip with the tab that holds the cylinder. Simply take a wrench and pull it firmly. The cylinder should move freely now.
The final step is to remove that steel rod that you see on the upper right of the picture. It ends in a hook, so simply move the part it holds around until the hook comes off.
#12
#13
A couple of notes Federico...The gear part in the door is the door latch...The lock is the keyed part on the outside...the inside part is what I call the door latch remote...which is what the door handle goes on.
As for the old thread...wow...THATS going waaaay back in time :-)
- cs65
As for the old thread...wow...THATS going waaaay back in time :-)
- cs65
#14
#15
Here are some more pictures of the clips and rods.
Something you may have to do if you get a new lock set is to swap the old arms to the new cylinders so that the rods are engaged properly. Note that one hole is larger and the other is missing on the new arm. Old is gold colored. New is silver colored.
Also, when you replace the cylinders, take the opportunity to clean all of the crud out of the bottom of the doors. You never know what you might find.
1956. Maybe it's worth 11 cents now??
Something you may have to do if you get a new lock set is to swap the old arms to the new cylinders so that the rods are engaged properly. Note that one hole is larger and the other is missing on the new arm. Old is gold colored. New is silver colored.
Also, when you replace the cylinders, take the opportunity to clean all of the crud out of the bottom of the doors. You never know what you might find.
1956. Maybe it's worth 11 cents now??