Need advice - replacing crankshaft position sensor
#1
Need advice - replacing crankshaft position sensor
Hi All,
I'm trying to replace the crankshaft position sensor on my 1997 4 cylinder Ranger. My manual says to remove the alternator, two bolts that hold the water pump inlet pipe on, and the water pump inlet pipe. I have removed the alternator and the two bolts, but I can't get the water pump inlet pipe to move at all. It's made of plastic and I don't want to break it since I'd never be able to get the stub out of the water pump if I broke it.
Any advice on how to get the water pump inlet pipe out?
Thanks,
Tom in TN
I'm trying to replace the crankshaft position sensor on my 1997 4 cylinder Ranger. My manual says to remove the alternator, two bolts that hold the water pump inlet pipe on, and the water pump inlet pipe. I have removed the alternator and the two bolts, but I can't get the water pump inlet pipe to move at all. It's made of plastic and I don't want to break it since I'd never be able to get the stub out of the water pump if I broke it.
Any advice on how to get the water pump inlet pipe out?
Thanks,
Tom in TN
#3
Thanks Ken,
I was able to finish replacing the crankshaft position sendor this afternoon, but just got back to my computer now. It turns out that the water inlet pipe is actually metal, not plastic as I thought. I was able to get the handle of a hammer into the pipe and gently turn the pipe back and forth to break the seal that had formed between the o-ring and the water pump. After that, it was a pain, but no major problem to finish the job.
The engine runs much better, but as I was driving into the drive tonight, the check engine light came back on. I'll go to Autozone tomorrow and have them read the code. I hope it's not the crankshaft position sensor again.
I love this forum.
Tom in TN
I was able to finish replacing the crankshaft position sendor this afternoon, but just got back to my computer now. It turns out that the water inlet pipe is actually metal, not plastic as I thought. I was able to get the handle of a hammer into the pipe and gently turn the pipe back and forth to break the seal that had formed between the o-ring and the water pump. After that, it was a pain, but no major problem to finish the job.
The engine runs much better, but as I was driving into the drive tonight, the check engine light came back on. I'll go to Autozone tomorrow and have them read the code. I hope it's not the crankshaft position sensor again.
I love this forum.
Tom in TN