I know someone on here has welded the front fenders to the hood to make a complete tilt front end (53 to 56), not just the hood but the whole shebang, got any pictures and tips, do’s, don’t, recommendations?

I kind of have an idea of what I will be doing and am thinking of tackling that project soon, I have looked into a fiberglass "dog house" and it seems it would be as much work to fit properly besides I like to complicate my life.

Thanks,

Rey

 

If you weld it together without properly spacing the gaps and adjusting the alignment first, you'll have a metal "doghouse" because it will never fit any truck again. I suggest doing a search as this was just discussed within the last week or two.

 

Rey,

I haven't done a metal... I'm trying to fit up a fiberglass unit...\

I don't think you can just weld it all together without some spacers between hood and fenders to maintain the proper fit up... if it's welded panel to panel it won't fit... hinge-ing shouldn't be a problem once you get it fitted and the lower part of the fenders cut off... there should be someone around who can give you good advice on spacers and such.. you also have to consider the radiator mount as you'll lose the air deflector as an attachment point when you tilt it...

later
John

 

rey, i just got mine all bolted together and tilting forward with the help of two linear actuators. is there a reason why you want to weld them? its hard to change after its welded.

 

Rey -

The all metal tilt fronts that I have seen were not welded. They were bolted together.

When I was considering a tilt front myself, I looked at a lot of them. Last year's Western Nationals had at least 8 of them. Only one was glass. I was surprised by that as I thought that a glass front was an obvious choice.

I was concerned that the fitup would be a problem unless the gaps between fenders and hood were setup right. After researching it, I think the glass guys include that gap in their layup when they smooth those seams. All the metal fronts were gapped correctly and all still had those seams. None were filled.

My two cents...

 

I sure was glad the PO that flipped the front on mine bolted it together and didn't cut the fenders. I just built front hinges for the hood, but made sure they were reversable if someone wanted to put it back the way it was.

 

HHMMM, hadn't thought about it that way, bolting instead of welding. So it is best to bolt the fenders to the hood, then using fiberglass filler to fill in the gap, if you would like to have that part smoothed out? I have seen that done before, it does make sense. As far as the internals go, air deflectors, fender wells, radiator support, I am looking to that also so all the input you guys have would be great.

Hey fish-albuq do you have pics of your set up?

This months Custom Classic Tucks magazine has 2 articles (cover trucks) that have front tilt ends. Both with different ways of handling the area (gap) where the fenders join at the rear, one cut the fenders diagonally the other (yellow truck) cut the fender vertically.

Looking at the mag got me motivated to go for it. It’s funny how you have all these ideas stored in the back burner and all of a sudden BOOM, something just gets your blood boiling

Rey

 

Rey -

I'm not a big fan of cutting the fenders on a diagonal (and leaving the back part attached to the cab). I just haven't seen one done well. Either vertically or diagonal. They all get chipped and mismatch at that seam.

On the other hand, if you leave the fender in tact, you need to either slide the whole mess forward first (which I have seen), then UP A LOT or be about 4 1/2 foot tall to avoid whacking your head on the fender when it's raised.

Problems, problems...

 

If you cut the fenders you'll need to figure out a way to hold the two parts so they align and don't flap in the breeze. And as RJ says if you don't cut the fenders then you need two people and/or a way to more the assembly forward to clear the cab sides. If you want to fill the gaps, then weld the bolts after everything is aligned and working satisfactory, and weld in filler metal (1/4" rod?) in the gaps before using bondo. The bolted parts will move and crack the filler and you should never try to fill 1/4" wide gap with filler alone. You'll have to decide which parts will tilt with the front sheetmetal and which with the chassis, Then build suitable bracing/mounts for each.

 

53Chop,
I'm not sure that fiberglassing the seam betweenthe hood and the fenders would hold up for long. I think that it would crack and fail after a short time. If you are going for the seamless smoothed look I think that the only option you have is to weld a spacer into the gap.

I love the look of a tilt front end...wish I had the guts to tackle it

Bobby

 

If I ever do that I want to make the front end slide out first then tilt forward. I don't like the looks of the cut fender either.

 

The front end would have to slide a fair amount forward to let the fenders clear the cab as they swing up, but a telescoping front frame section might do the trick and be hardly noticed.

 

rey, my hood slides forward about 4 inches (length of the cowl) and then rotates up and forward. i dont have any pics of it on yet but this week ill try and get em loaded up.

 

Slide out, man I can't believe I am this cluless , I understand cutting the fender problem, personally, that would be the only thing that would not look right, that gap seems out of place, but slide out and up, wow, I need to see pictures of that.

As far as filler goes, you guys are right it would be too big of a gad to fill all the way a Slide out, man I can't believe I am this clueless , I understand cutting the fender problem, personally, that would be the only thing that would not look right, that gap would seem out of place, but slide out and up, wow, I need to see pictures of that.

As far as filler goes, you guys are right it would be too big of a gap to fill all the way filler, welding a rod and then filling is the best way to go.

fish-albuq I can’t wait to see those pics. Thanks

Rey

 

The hinges for the flip front end that are still on my truck are sort of a laying down "L" shape. The vertical leg attaches to to the air deflector the horizontal one lays along the side of the frame and has a pivot bolt just behind the bumper. Now picture a telescoping section of metal (rectangular tube? Think giant drawer slide.) that could slide over the frame so it could be pulled out, with that same hinge arrangement bolted to it instead. pull the front out enough to clear the cab sides then flip the unit up on it's hinges. If you bolted the bumper to the part that pulls out you could use the bumper like a giant door pull.