mine is on rollers, which are attached to eachother by a rod. when the actuators push forward it slides forward until it hits stops welded on the front of the frame. it hits the stops and actually falls down into a small pocket on bottom of frame. at this point it rolls over. going down into this pocket it keeps the rollers from rolling backwards. this is where i thought i would have problems getting it back up out of the pocket. i welded a 3/4" rod at 90 degrees to the rod that connects the two rollers this actually hits on frame and slowly lets in fall into pocket as actuators push, and does the opposite on retraction. ill really try and get some pics of it on here cause i cant explain it for nothing.

 

Just bringing this back up.
Rey

 

Anyone have any close up pictures of these set ups?
Rey

 

I just updated my gallery with some pictures that I took at the Western Nationals this past June. I have examples of both the "slide forward and then tilt" (the yellow truck) and the "cut fenders at a diagonal" (the orange truck). Both trucks are exceptionally beautiful. It is my dream to do this to my 56 some day.

 

So if you don't cut the rear section of the fenders, what do you bolt the front of the running boards too?

 

I would think that there is an extra brace at the front of the running board. Also, if memory serves me, there is a pin on the front of the running board that locks the fender in place.
Scott

 

I run my 56 without the bolt/spacer between the front of the running boards and the rear of the fender. It doesn't seem to need the extra bracing. The tilit fronts that I have seen that slide don't do anything extra there either.

 

I have my nose welded together. I made spacers the thickness I needed for the proper gaps then welded the spacers between the hood and the fenders (from the bottom) so you cannot see the spacers from the outside of the truck. I left the gap between the hood and the fenders as I wanted that stock look(plus I couldn't figure out a way to fill it and have it look "Right". There are some pics in my gallery.

 

tgregoire great pics, a couple of questions though same one InAlaska asked in the comments,

"How did you deal with the radiator? I imagine you had to fab a mount so that the "core support" could tilt with the rest of the front?"

I am assuming the radiator support stayed in place, and that you built a brace that would support the entire doghouse? Any other type of bracing that you had to do to support the doghouse? I am assuming with the inner wheel wells in place it prevents the whole thing from wobbling? If you removed the inner wheel wells, would it wobble, you think?

SCD, thank for the pics, that rolling mechanism looks nice and fancy.

Rey

 

I'm not sure what is meant by the core support. The only piece which is not part of the dog house is the "U" shaped radiator support. That stayed in place with the radiator. I used the old fender adjustment rods from the firewall to the radiator support to hold the radiator in place. I didn't have to do any extra supports. I didn't try it without the inner fenders. I left mine in as my truck will be a driver and I don't want to cover the engine compartment with crud when I drive. Especially if I get caught in the rain.

 

I SEE IT..... the upper valance acts as a support, duh. Now I get it thanks. And yeah that's what I meant --"U" shaped radiator support--.

Rey

 

WHERE CAN A PERSON PURCHASE HINGES, OR DID YOU MAKE THEM?

 

Ihave a set of chrome hinges I took off my truck designed for the 53-56, but likely adaptable to the F1.

 

Hi: Bondo or fiberglass will crack if you try to fill the gaps with it, it has to be welded using a filler rod. I am also considering using a flip front and would like to stay away from cutting the fender's. I am wondering how you get the front end to slide forward then tilt. I have welded a Nova Clip on the front so I have some issue's with linning every thing up. I have found a rad from an early 70's dodge van with a V8/automatic,that fits nicely. I am going to make a cradle for the rad and trim inner fenders and mount every thing and then figure out how to make the flip. If you have found any good info please forward it to me

 

That's correct. Decide the spacing needed to match the factory seam gaps and bolt it all together with the proper spacers. If say the gap is 1/4" you could then fill the gap with 1/4" round or square rod welded in if you want the seams to disappear or use thinner stock, say 1/4 x 1/8" inset and welded from the back so the seams can be filled below the surrounding surfaces, but still be one solid piece.