Ok can't attach any thing and can't send you my email, HMMMMMMM. OK I will try to paste the doc to the site?? see what happens


Compression Test—Compression Gauge Check
1. Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery (10655) is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs (12405).
2. Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
3. Install a compression gauge such as the Compression Tester in the No. 1 cylinder.
4. Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of five compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes required to obtain the highest reading.
5. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.
Compression Test—Test Results
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75 percent of the highest reading. For additional information, refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.

Compression Pressure Limit Chart
Maximum Pressure Minimum Pressure Maximum Pressure Minimum Pressure Maximum Pressure Minimum Pressure Maximum Pressure Minimum Pressure
924 kPa (134 psi) 696 kPa (101 psi) 1131 kPa (164 psi) 848 kPa (123 psi) 1338 kPa (194 psi) 1000 kPa (146 psi) 1544 kPa (224 psi) 1158 kPa (168 psi)
938 kPa (136 psi) 703 kPa (102 psi) 1145 kPa (166 psi) 855 kPa (124 psi) 1351 kPa (196 psi) 1014 kPa (147 psi) 1558 kPa (226 psi) 1165 kPa (169 psi)
952 kPa (138 psi) 717 kPa (104 psi) 1158 kPa (168 psi) 869 kPa (126 psi) 1365 kPa (198 psi) 1020 kPa (148 psi) 1572 kPa (228 psi) 1179 kPa (171 psi)
965 kPa (140 psi) 724 kPa (106 psi) 1172 kPa (170 psi) 876 kPa (127 psi) 1379 kPa (200 psi) 1034 kPa (150 psi) 1586 kPa (230 psi) 1186 kPa (172 psi)
979 kPa (142 psi) 738 kPa (107 psi) 1186 kPa (172 psi) 889 kPa (129 psi) 1303 kPa (202 psi) 1041 kPa (151 psi) 1600 kPa (232 psi) 1200 kPa (174 psi)
933 kPa (144 psi) 745 kPa (109 psi) 1200 kPa (174 psi) 903 kPa (131 psi) 1407 kPa (204 psi) 1055 kPa (153 psi) 1055 kPa (153 psi) 1207 kPa (175 psi)
1007 kPa (146 psi) 758 kPa (110 psi) 1214 kPa (176 psi) 910 kPa (132 psi) 1420 kPa (206 psi) 1062 kPa (154 psi) 1627 kPa (154 psi) 1220 kPa (177 psi)
1020 kPa (148 psi) 765 kPa (111 psi) 1227 kPa (178 psi) 917 kPa (133 psi) 1434 kPa (208 psi) 1075 kPa (156 psi) 1641 kPa (238 psi) 1227 kPa (178 psi)
1034 kPa (150 psi) 779 kPa (113 psi) 1241 kPa (180 psi) 931 kPa (135 psi) 1448 kPa (210 psi) 1083 kPa (157 psi) 1655 kPa (240 psi) 1241 kPa (180 psi)
1048 kPa (152 psi) 786 kPa (114 psi) 1255 kPa (182 psi) 936 kPa (136 psi) 1462 kPa (212 psi) 1089 kPa (158 psi) 1669 kPa (242 psi) 1248 kPa (181 psi)
1062 kPa (154 psi) 793 kPa (115 psi) 1269 kPa (184 psi) 952 kPa (138 psi) 1476 kPa (214 psi) 1103 kPa (160 psi) 1682 kPa (244 psi) 1262 kPa (183 psi)
1076 kPa (156 psi) 807 kPa (117 psi) 1282 kPa (186 psi) 965 kPa (140 psi) 1489 kPa (216 psi) 1117 kPa (162 psi) 1696 kPa (246 psi) 1269 kPa (184 psi)
1089 kPa (158 psi) 814 kPa (118 psi) 1296 kPa (188 psi) 972 kPa (141 psi) 1503 kPa (218 psi) 1124 kPa (163 psi) 1710 kPa (248 psi) 1202 kPa (186 psi)
1103 kPa (160 psi) 827 kPa (120 psi) 1310 kPa (190 psi) 979 kPa (142 psi) 1517 kPa (220 psi) 1138 kPa (165 psi) 1724 kPa (250 psi) 1289 kPa (187 psi)
1110 kPa (161 psi) 834 kPa (121 psi) 1324 kPa (192 psi) 993 kPa (144 psi) 1631 kPa (222 psi) 1145 kPa (166 psi) — —

If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of Super Premium SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil, XO-5W30-QSP meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-G on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.
Compression Test—Interpreting Compression Readings
1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are faulty.
2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating incorrectly.
3. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition.
Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75 percent of the highest reading.

Cylinder Leakage Detection
When a cylinder produces a low reading, use of the Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause.
The leakage detector is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to dead center on the compression stroke, and compressed air is admitted.
Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, a special gauge included in the kit will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20 percent is excessive.
While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve (6507) will be heard in the throttle body (9E926). A leak at the exhaust valve (6505) can be heard at the tail pipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator (8005


Lance

 

did that work hope so that is the best I can do.

Lance

 

thanx a bunch Lance... i'll know when i can get to this after i get hold of my nephew - hopefully this weekend.

so is there nothing else that could be causing the the oil to be literally burned up? guess not then, thanx again guys and i'll lyk how it goes.

man, this may be worthy of a sticky? at least for noob DIY'ers like myself

Lance, you should at least consider submitting it with some of the other "HOW TO's" on the site.

either way it's a nice guide and i surely wouldn't know what/how to get this done without it.

thanx again all!

 

yes, this is super m8! especially since me and my nephew are the ones the changed the plugs and wires a few months ago - this should be rather simple.

it mentions the auxillary starter... however, as you mentioned previously either me or him starting from the ignition switch serves the same purpose correct?

i'm sure this is what you said so no need to reply and thanx again!

 

Yes that is right another body in the truck to turn the key. As to the other topic it is up to the moderator as to whether to add the thread as a FAQ topic.
Any thing to help that is what these forums are all about.

Lance

 

i'll lyk how it goes Lance - thanx some more m8!

 

We're trying to cut back on the number of stickies etc because if we have too many of them it can kill the discussion in the forum and that's what forums are all about.
It's a fine line between having people ask the same questions over and over again and not having them ask them at all.
Also, it's a good post but it's not really a tip or cure that's specific to these trucks.

 

OK just trying to help.

Lance

 

well, i really didn't mean sticky - sorry, about that! i was thinking more along the lines of the 'articles' section. i'm sure plenty of people would find it helpful as a general guide for the 1997 - 2003 Ford trucks and SUVs.

never really thought about the fact that too much info could surely cut back on forum involvement - interesting point. what do you think about adding it as a guide / 'how to' in the "Articles / Specs" section though?

yeah, a sticky would only apply if it a problem quite a few people were having or whatever so i'm not sure what i was thinking there :/

 

I'll see what the admins think about making an article out of it.

 

sorry for the lapse in response but i have been unable to get the compression test done like i wanted to. i did get the compression test tool but haven't been able to set up a time with my nephew so he could help me.

on an more positive note i think i have found the problem with the oil consumption - well, at least part of the probem (more on this later). i was getting my muffler changed so the car was up on a rack and i was able to get a good look underneath and take a look at what i found...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/tb40nd/leak.jpg

...the guy fixing my muffler says that is my oil filter relocation kit. he also says that he didn't believe i could just replace the hose but i'd have to get the whole kit? anyone have any experience with this part? is the hose replaceable or do i need a whole kit? if i did need the whole kit where would be the best place to buy one?

i'm also wondering why this happened and what i can do to keep it from happening again. the muffler guy said it looks like it's getting rubbed raw like this when i turn. i also asked him why it never left any oil stains in my drive and he said it probably only leaks when the car is on and i'm in the process of turning a corner?

this may not be my ONLY b/c i also noticed this while under there...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/tb40nd/leak2.jpg

...this part i have boxed off is the bottom of my engine right? if so, can someone please tell me why it looks like something is leaking in this area? the darkened area does look like something is leaking inside this part to or could this be from the hose leak?

lastly, can someone tell me if this hose leak could cause any other problem other than constantly having to add oil? could it cause any compression problems? i ask b/c a guy that was looking at my car once thought i had blow-by or something from the white smoke that comes from ny exhaust from time to time - especially when backing out of somewhere.

thanks a bunch for ANY further replies!