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Old 07-16-2005, 05:17 PM
gholtum gholtum is offline
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F350 Rear Brakes

I have a 1997 F350 Crew Cab Duely (diesel) and I want to replace the rear drum brake pads.

The dealer service manager says on some, the drums come off without pulling the axle shafts.

Anyone know if this is true and if so, how can I tell before starting the job?

Gary
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Old 07-16-2005, 05:22 PM
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You can't really tell before starting the job, unfortunately. Just get ready to pull them in case you do need to.
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Old 07-17-2005, 03:51 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply.

If I pull the wheels off will it be obvious?

Gary
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Old 07-21-2005, 03:04 AM
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Yes, it'll be obvious. Assuming you have the parking brake off, the drums can be taken off if the they are loose. Otherwise, you need to pull the axle shafts, remove the hub and drum, unbolt the drum from the hub, etc.

I just did the rear brakes on my 1995 F-250HD. At least that year, the F-250HD's and the F-350's use the same Dana 80 axle.

Interestingly, the Chilton manual for my truck said the drums were not loose; it was wrong, but I didn't notice until I had pulled the shaft on one side and undone the outer bearing! So I had to buy a $30 hub nut tool for this axle in order to proper re-install the bearing. At least it has a pretty slick "clip-stop" system for setting bearing float.
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Old 07-21-2005, 06:25 AM
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Old 07-21-2005, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX-PLT
Yes, it'll be obvious. Assuming you have the parking brake off, the drums can be taken off if the they are loose. Otherwise, you need to pull the axle shafts, remove the hub and drum, unbolt the drum from the hub, etc.

I just did the rear brakes on my 1995 F-250HD. At least that year, the F-250HD's and the F-350's use the same Dana 80 axle.

Interestingly, the Chilton manual for my truck said the drums were not loose; it was wrong, but I didn't notice until I had pulled the shaft on one side and undone the outer bearing! So I had to buy a $30 hub nut tool for this axle in order to proper re-install the bearing. At least it has a pretty slick "clip-stop" system for setting bearing float.
You sure you had a Dana80 in a 250? It should have been a 10.25 which is why the drum slid off.

I never messed with a dual axle so I am unsure about the mounting system.

Chris
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Old 07-21-2005, 10:40 AM
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My 95 F350 DRW has the Sterling 10.25 and you don't have to pull the axles.
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Old 07-21-2005, 04:17 PM
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I know the SRW trucks all use a sterling 10.25", but I was under the impression that the dually rigs use a Dana 70 or Dana 80.

Does anyone know for sure? 3 of 7 - are you sure your dually is a sterling? Does it have the fill plug in the cover?
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Old 07-21-2005, 05:48 PM
3 of 7 3 of 7 is offline
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Yes , mine is a sterling, I just did the brakes and had a 355 ring and pinion installed, the fill plug is on the front left of the housing (not on the rear pan)


*****edit***** I changed front right to front left, I was upside down and backwards when I put the new oil in it!

Last edited by 3 of 7; 07-21-2005 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 07-21-2005, 06:22 PM
PDX-PLT PDX-PLT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokebronco
You sure you had a Dana80 in a 250? It should have been a 10.25 which is why the drum slid off.
To be honest, I don't know for sure if its made by Dana, or which one it is. I was going by the description on the package for the hub nut tool, which said it was for the Dana 80 used on 250-HD's and 350's.

Mine is the 10.25, used on 250HD's and 350's SRW's that year. I missed the note that his was a DRW.

This was the first time I did drum brakes. What a pain. Disc brakes are almost fun in comparison.
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Old 07-21-2005, 06:22 PM
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