390 w/1.65 ex valves cyln bore clearence..?
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Wow, I thought they had more than that with the 1.65" exhaust valves.
A few questions:
How are you measuring it?
What's your measured cylinder bore diameter?
What heads are you using?
A few questions:
How are you measuring it?
What's your measured cylinder bore diameter?
What heads are you using?
std. bore
c4aeg
#4
My 11:1 390, I put the 1.65 exhaust valves in it - the machinist who did most of the work checked all the clearances for me, and if I recall correctly, he basically said something to the effect of "If it wasn't bored .030, it'd be pretty close". The big thing he was worried about was the flow potential, with the valve being that close to the cylinder wall...
Not that that helps you much
Come to thing of it, he might have notched the cylinder slightly to help it...
Wait for others here with more info to help more than I can...
Not that that helps you much
Come to thing of it, he might have notched the cylinder slightly to help it...
Wait for others here with more info to help more than I can...
#5
I was curious so that's why I decided to have a look..... I've noticed the valve doesn't come in perfectly parralel to the bore.... so the farther you open the valve the closer it gets to the wall..... It looks like at about .750" lift the valve hits the cylnder.....I have a dial indicator at work....I'm trying to think up a way to measure lift now with a digital mic I have....
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Egad. I wasn't aware they were that close. If it were MY engine, I would leave at least .030". Steve's book says they'll work without notches, but breathing will be improved if it is done.
Anyway, I'd have the cylinder bores notched.
Anyway, I'd have the cylinder bores notched.
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zsir take a look at this site. www.chuckbrandt.com click on engine buildup. Chuck used a 352 block bored to std 4.05 and notched the cyl. Shows a pic and some details that might help you. G.
#12
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Originally Posted by zsir
I was curious so that's why I decided to have a look..... I've noticed the valve doesn't come in perfectly parralel to the bore.... so the farther you open the valve the closer it gets to the wall..... It looks like at about .750" lift the valve hits the cylnder.....I have a dial indicator at work....I'm trying to think up a way to measure lift now with a digital mic I have....
I dont know about the standard bore, But i am running a .030" over bore with 2.090" and 1.660" valves and a .576" lift cam without clearance problems..
Russ
#13
Originally Posted by RapidRuss
I would take a small rubber band and put down low on the valve stem to give it some resistance...Of course you do know what you cam lift at the valve right? and then set your valve to that depth with the back side of the calipers from the top of the valve guide to the tip of the valve....and take your measurements at the bore then...
I dont know about the standard bore, But i am running a .030" over bore with 2.090" and 1.660" valves and a .576" lift cam without clearance problems..
Russ
I dont know about the standard bore, But i am running a .030" over bore with 2.090" and 1.660" valves and a .576" lift cam without clearance problems..
Russ
I have tried something like that allowing .040 for gasket thickness....I'm going to get my feeler guages from work....but it looks like about .010-.015" clearence....I just need to accuratley mark this depth so I can remove the head and see how far down in the bore this depth is....it has to be above the first ring land.....using that demension and the head gasket for refrence it wouldn't be that hard to grind or file a small relief....
#14
Originally Posted by FFR428
zsir take a look at this site. www.chuckbrandt.com click on engine buildup. Chuck used a 352 block bored to std 4.05 and notched the cyl. Shows a pic and some details that might help you. G.
#15
check this out form www.chuckbrandt.com
http://www.chuckbrandt.com/f100xl.htm <---- not that is cool !!!!
http://www.chuckbrandt.com/f100xl.htm <---- not that is cool !!!!