I have a 5.0L 1993 bronco that I baby and do extreme maintenance on. I'm an ex-mechanic, so I'm no dummy. My engine started leaking coolant in the front, I suspected the lower weep hole of the pump. I finally got a mirror in there while it is leaking, and it isn't the weep hole! I see the fluid dripping around the back side of the harmonic balancer, by the front of the oil pan, below the water pump. I checked all the hose connections, thermostat housing, everywhere. I can't seem to find the leak but suspect it may be coming from behind the water pump. It drips fairly steadily until the fluid drains out about a gallon, about a drip a second. Can anybody tell me if there is a freeze plug or somthing else I may be missing. I have the new pump, but didn't want to get in there to find out I'm missing another known problem. Any help is appreciated. I'm probably gonna rip out the 135k pump this weekend. The truck runs fine, and has no other problems.

 

I am so glad you posted this problem, and I can't wait to see what the answer is. I have a "similar" problem with an '89 5.8L Bronco... coolant loss at the front of the engine... can't find the source. Think it's "spraying" on start up. It sprays onto the fan belt causing it to slip and squeak. Also notice a pungent odor after startup, think it's burning off where it's sprayed onto the engine. Seems if it would be obvious as to where the leak is coming from, but it's not. Of course, I am no mechanic either. Sorry I invaded your post without any help... just good to know I am not alone!

 

I'm not getting any spray, just a drip. After reading a gazillion posts, I found it could be the pump to timing cover gasket. I'll keep an eye on the responses. I looked EVERWHERE around the pump and can't seem to find the source. It definitely isn't the weep holes (top or bottom). I squeezed the hoses under pressure (ouch, very hot) and didn't see leaks at the clamps. At 135k it's time for the new pump, but I'm concerned it may be wasted work.

 

I need to do some research on here as well... but I think I wil get a friend of mine down here to the island and see what he thinks. He's a mechanic, but does more along the electrical end of mechanics than anything else. He might be able to pinpoint my prob...& I hope you have solved your own prob. Good luck!

 

I wouldn't rule out the gasket between the timing chain cover and the block. Thats were my leak was. It was a hard to find, with the alternator and hoses in the way. I would clean the front of the block and timing chain cover real good with some spray degreaser to make it easier to spot the leak.

 

Just got off the phone with the local shop that does a couple hundred vehicles a week. They said it's a known problem for timing covers to leak, warp, or the bolts disintegrate and leak. He warned me about broken bolts being found. He wants 5 hours labor if everything is a snap, I already have all the parts (I hope). Said if the cover is cracked or warped, it will cost more. I'm gonna roll the dice and do this one myself. I'll let everybody know what I found, maybe take pics if I can. Thanks for everybody's input. It's been 13 years since I retired my wrenches, but I can't part with 400-500 bucks for a job that I used to get paid $10 bucks an hour to do, even if I do make good money - it's the principle of the matter !!!

 

Jersey dust off your wrenches and go for it, then spend that labor money on something you want for your Bronco.

 

Just go slow on taking out those timing cover bolts. Lube 'em up with penetrating oil real good well in advance. They more than likely will be corroded, but I've found that the oil and slow force keeps them from breaking.. most of the time

 

You said you found corroded bolts. Did you simply wire-wheel them, or replace them with fresh bolts? Did you put never sieze on the bolts, or put em in dry?

 

I would use the same bolts if they only had surface rust, I would wire brush them if they have any material that has been eaten away replace with new bolts. I would use a thread sealant like permatex non-hardening because some of the bolts do thread into the water jackets.

 

I 'm so close I can taste it. I broke one bolt on the passenger side, but enough stud is sticking out to get it out. I'm hitting it with pb blaster now, and will be patient. Meanwhile, does the harmonic balancer have to come off to get the cover off? I have the puller, just trying to save labor.

Thanks

 

Yes, it does have to come off. You'll also need a new seal for that opening in the cover.

 

The seal came with the cover gasket set. Also included little cork gaskets for the part of the new pan gasket that will get torn. Damn it, I just had the pan gasket replaced last month too! I'd prefer rubber, but rtv should seal it up nice. Out with the shroud and off with the balancer. Thanks.

 

I went to the local hardware store, out of 4" x 5/16" x grade 8 bolts. The local shop knew what the bolt was when I walked in, but said they get them right from ford. Lesson 1 : Get 4 bolts BEFORE you start. Replace em all, and the shop says coat the entire 4" with never-sieze. I was gonna slip in a lesser grade bolt and replace it when I got to the dealer, but I don't think that may happen, unless you guys are using grade 8 bolts from somewhere like LOWES. Any suggestions? I'm ready to reassemble, and this damn bolt is holding me up. Typical problem on a Saturday.

 

Well folks, it WAS the water pump, at the rear bottom (Gasket). The gasket let loose enough for the drip I saw. However, as with any job, something else always comes along. One of the 4" water pump bolts snapped off during removal, on the passenger side of the pump, making me pull the timing chain cover. As luck would have it, it left 1/2" of threaded stud sticking out. So I should be able to soak it with PB Blaster overnight, and put a double nut on it to back it out. I can't find the bolt today. They are 4" x 5/16" by (looks like grade 8 bolt). Local shop says fthey use ford only. As it turns out you usually mangle something else during the job as well. So, I"m getting a new Thermostat housing, the special heater hose adapater, and a new timing chain and gears since they seem less than tight (I've done enough to know what to look for). I'm right there, so why stop now? There are also freeze plugs at the front of the cylinder heads, but that would probably exhibit a leak towards either side of the engine, and not where I saw it. The freeze plugs look good, and aren't too bad to get to, so I'm leaving them alone till they go. Thanks for everybody's help on this one. It's been quite a while since I did a job this big. I probably will have saved about 500 bucks when I'm done.