1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1956 f100 Lowering Rear Leaf Springs

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Old 07-07-2005, 04:43 PM
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1956 f100 Lowering Rear Leaf Springs

I have been looking through old threads for information on lowering the rear suspension of a 1956 f100 Panel by removing spring leafs. Would someone who has completed their rear suspension please let me know what springs they removed and if the ride is good?
Thanks
Maxx
 
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Old 07-07-2005, 07:56 PM
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Old 07-07-2005, 09:23 PM
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In addition to the great post from ferguson, I'm running four leafs on my truck and I raised the front hanger to the top of the frame rails. Gave me an addition inch. Truck rides real nice.
 
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Old 07-08-2005, 11:25 AM
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Rear Suspension Lowering

IMLOWR2: I like the looks of your trucks suspension stance and height. Which springs did you keep? Where did you get your spring/shock mounting hardware? Thanks for the info.
 
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:39 PM
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Go to www.midfifty.com they have all the info and pictures in there catolog hope it is of a help to you.
 
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:54 PM
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ZZ: Most people just remove every other spring, starting on the bottom, (of course). But on mine, I kept the four longest ones and removed the three shortest. This was on the advice of the local spring company. I have also installed the plastic liners, ground off the sharp edges on the mating surfaces and applied a thin coat of axle grease. The ride is better, but still a little too firm. The delima I have is that if I remove another spring then the rear will be too low. So I may have the three longest springs re-arced and then go with only those. Of course, by removing springs you realize that you are severely limiting your carrying capacity. Good luck, Jag
 
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Old 07-08-2005, 03:00 PM
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ZZ- Thanks for the compliment. Actually I did just like Jag said. I originally had 6 leafs on the rear. The hangers are all stock. I removed the 2nd and fourth spring starting from the bottom. That gave me about 1" drop. Then I also raised the front hanger. You have remove the rivots and simply move it up by drilling holes higher up on the frame. That gave me another 1". That's all I did for the rear. I'm running four leafs in the rear and that give me a pretty nice ride. Not spongy or too firm. Hope this helps..
 
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Old 07-10-2005, 08:36 PM
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I used a 2" drop hanger from Mid-Fifties (actually gave me 1 1\2" drop) along with relocating the forward rear hanger 1 1\2" upwards on the frame...this kept the rear u-joint angle just as it was so there was no need for agle shims or rewelding the spring perches....I also left all the springs, knowing it would be stiffer...but I need that to run the 15 x 10's that will be peeking out of the fender edge.
good luck with your drop. Ed

ps...used a mono reverse-eye in front and got 4 7\8" drop.
 
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Old 07-10-2005, 11:13 PM
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Hows the ride with the drop springs? I've wanted to do that for a while, but haven't been able to talk to anyone about it. John
 
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Old 07-11-2005, 12:18 AM
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John, As for me..I dont know how the ride is yet. I still have parts scattered all over the garage. Plan to do the engine build up this week and put it back on the frame. My small oil leak turned into a frame-up.
Between the supposed softer ride of the mono spring and the toyota pwr. steering I installed it should be pretty sweet! Ed
 
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:29 PM
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Lightbulb

This thread got me to wondering about my setup and the less than smooth ride. I checked it out again and made a startling discovery. As I have been removing the springs for the softer ride, the gradual lowering has put my shocks at there useful limit. So, slow riding was not too bad, but if I hit a bump at speed then the shocks were bottoming out. I reinstalled the upper mount to the highest hole on the cross member and the ride is much better. This is very embarrasing to put out in puiblic, but maybe it will help somebody else. Jag
 
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Old 07-11-2005, 02:18 PM
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Jag -

Thank you for your humility. It serves us all well.

Now...you actually have different holes to mount to? "Useful" travel limit? What a concept! I consider myself edified.
 
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Old 07-11-2005, 03:26 PM
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Yea Randy, my cross member actually has three holes for the top of the shock to be attached to. For some reason, I had mine in the lowest hole. It must have been something I did three years ago before I started taking out leafsprings. Anyway, I'm glad I won't be having to go to the expense of having the springs re-arced. Jag
 
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:47 PM
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1956 f100 Lowering Rear Leaf Springs

Thanks for all the great information. I pulled my original rear suspension tonight and temporarily attached my Ford 9 Inch rear under the top spring while I clean and prep my other springs and decide what leafs I will end up using. I had hoped to use my original axel mounting base that has the attachment post for the shock absorber mount. The Ford 9 inch rear is about ¾ of an inch bigger around so I don’t think I will be able to use the original base (u-bolts bow out). I can weld a shock mount to the axle but I would prefer a base mount. Ferguson’s spring life article states “keep 1,3,5,7 and the main leaf”. I have seven original spring leaves, four short and three longer ones that are attached by end retainer hardware for leaf 5,6,and 7. The retainers are riveted to the ends of spring 5 and the bolt height is set for the three leafs. If leaf 6 is not used, do you drill a lower bolt hole in the retainer to avoid the inevitable rattle? Thanks again guys.
Maxx
 
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:04 AM
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ZZ,

If you're lining the springs with teflon/poly, it'll probably take up most of the space gained from leaving out leaves.

I know I've had no problem at all with any clatter from mine although the only mileage mine gets is when I roll it out of the garage to do some welding on it, etc......
 


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