Can a bad starter cause wires to heat up and melt the insulation on them? Mine did after I changed the original battery connections. Now I believe it's a bad starter and I just wanted to ask this before I went ahead and swaaped it out. Thanks for any help!!

 

Sure can. If the starter is drawing more amps than the wire can handle melt city. Been there had it happen. Of course crossed wires or a weak ground could also contribute.

 

Thanks for the feedback, torino!! I will swap my starter out as soon as I can...

 

Get it checked free at an autozone that will tell you if it's drwaing too much. One of the windings may be shorted and drawing too many amps. It should draw no more than 150-200 amps.

 

I have a starting problem also. Replaced battery, cables, alternator and now, when the truck is hot, I cannot start it for about 45 minutes. The starter sounds like its dragging. Solenoid? bad wire? starter?
I had Checker check the starting system and it checked o.k.
Thanx

 

Check and see if the battery cables are corroded. The insulation may look OK but inside the wire breaks down.
If thats not it check battery for dead cell or weak cell fully charged battery should read about 13.5 volts. You can test each cell by removing caps and using volt meter in each cell.
My 91 E350 had hot start and charging problems. After replacing battery and starter still had same problem. After replacing starter relay, ground, and starter cables, no more trouble. The cables looked fine but had lots of resistance when I checked with OHM meter. When I pealed back the insulation the wire inside was green and had a lot of broken strands.
Good Luck

 

I think I will get it checked nefore I invest in a new/recon'd one. The hard start after hot could be timing also, nixvet...

 

timing....now that you mention it, motor runs fine unless I drive up long grades or step on it. I hear the "marbles". I'll check the timing ( plugs and wires replaced last summer) Thanx, robster...

 

on my 92 ford bronco, my starter died on me in April, i took it out and tested it free at auto zone and it was dead.Got a new one for 100 bucks ,put it in no problems. Be careful of the heat sheild that covers the starter, while installing my new starter, the heat sheild cracked and i had to make a new one. also if u are going to change the starter, change the starter relay switch on the firewall, its costs like 10 bucks at auto zone just for added piece of mind.

 

Excellent point, davdogg!! I swapped my starter out and did the relay (mine's mounted on the passenger side fender). It fires up no problem!! While I was in there, I also dressed up all the connections, terminals and wires. Thanks all for your input and advice. See ya on down the road...

 

Exactly...if you have starting problems (especially when hot) replace the starter and also the relay...after checking all connections of course. I replaced my starter and fried my relay, so do both at the same time.

 

I have 156,000 miles and am thinking of switching to synthetic oil...any advice? What brand oil and filter...I change my oil and filter every 2500 miles but have heard a lot of good things about synthetics...
Thanx...

 

Nixvet2000, I've seen people that had good luck with synthetic oil on new or newer vehicles but not older or high mileage ones. Everyone I know that tried synthetic oil in older stuff ended up with a lot of leaks.

 

Thanx Gov...
I've also heard that...I think I'll stick with the reg. oil changes...

 

I had a friend once that wasn't a mechanic, not even close. His mother had a little BMW maybe like a 325i or something I don't know. He changed the oil for his mom and switched it to synthetic oil. Then the leaks started, one after another. Then he tried to fix it for her. Then it sat in her driveway for a year or so, I guess he was waiting for it to heal. Then the last I saw a wrecker took it the salvage yard.