The analog odometer and trip odometer stopped working in my 95 Mazda B2300. Looking through the various threads, I can not locate an explanation. I have seen the responses related to the cold solder joint in the digital odometers. I have tried to determine which fuse it is, but to no avail (fuse diagrams don't get down to that level). My first assumption was that it was one of the instrument cluster fuses. Some threads stated that it could be tied to the rear ABS. I have looked at all the fuses and found that none were bad. Does this model have a PSOM, if so where would I find it? it is not in my Chilton's repair manual...

Thank you for any help that you can send my way

 

Welcome to FTE!!

This is for a 1996 but it should be similar to a 95.

PINPOINT TEST H: SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER INOPERATIVE, RANGER AND EXPLORER

H1 CHECK CONNECTIONS
Verify connector is properly attached at speed sensor.
Are connections good and is drive tip seated properly?
Yes No
GO to H2 . SERVICE or REPLACE as necessary, RETEST system.

H2 CHECK ODOMETER/POINTER
Check operation of odometer/pointer.
Does the odometer operate and the speedometer pointer not operate?
Yes No
GO to H3 . REPLACE speedometer as described in Removal and Installation in this section. RECHECK speedometer for operation.

H3 CHECK SPEEDOMETER POINTER
Check operation of speedometer pointer.
Does the speedometer/pointer operate?
Yes No
GO to H4 . REPLACE speedometer as described in Removal and Installation in this section. RECHECK speedometer for operation.

H4 CHECK VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
Disconnect speedometer connector from vehicle speed sensor and remove vehicle speed sensor and check that shaft in vehicle speed sensor turns freely.
Does shaft turn freely?
Yes No
GO to H5 . REPLACE vehicle speed sensor as described in Removal and Installation in this section. CHECK speedometer for operation.

H5 CHECK GEARS
Check drive gear for damage or wear.
Is drive gear damaged?
Yes No
REPLACE damaged or worn gear. CHECK speedometer for operation. System OK.

 

Hey Ken, I haven't torn apart my truck to go through that checklist yet, but here's an interesing scenario:

Several weeks ago I bought a used instrument cluster with a tachometer on E-bay (you can hear it coming, can't you?) to replace my non-tach dash. I opened them both up and swapped the speedo/odometer guts so my dash would read the proper milage, and everything worked fine. About two weeks later, my speedo decided it didn't want to register anything until I hit about 60MPH, then jumps to the right spot. I'm assuming the speed sensor is okay, because the cruise control works fine. I don't know if it's related, but the ABS light came on too (which still makes me suspect the speed sensor). At least my new tach works!!!!

By the way, '99 Ranger XLT 4.0L manual, with replacement dash from same-year

 

rebturtle, I would pull the ABS code to start.

 

Well, I've been working on my house every day after work, even though I know I should have checked the truck out by now. I did notice today that the cruise only works when the speedo is working, so hopefully it is just the sensor. I think I'll stop at Auto Zone tomorrow and check out the code scanner, though.

 

Went to Auto Zone to code scan the ABS light and found what I was suspecting. Faulty/weak vehicle speed sensor. It made sense. The computer needs to know how fast you're going in order to properly apply the ABS. Sorry for hijacking the thread, MazdaMike. I hope this helped you also.

 

The speedometers on Rangers and Explorers are very tamper resistent.
I put a factory tach in my '95 and took the whole speedo apart to get the mileage right. Worked great until about 3 months later and the odometer quit, but the speedo was still fine. I pulled to cluster and it appeared that the electric motor and various gears had gotten into a jam and the electric motor didn't have the power to turn the odometer out of it. I moved the numbers and motor a bit and it worked fine. Until yesterday that is. It did the same thing, but this time when I fixed it I put some model car glue on the motor to keep it from moving in the housing(It wasn't loose by my definition, but was not factory super tight, they are VERY sensitive). You will know if it's a fuse in the '95 because the speedo and odometer won't work, and the dome light will not either. It's working now, anyway.