any info appreciated... just did hoses, belts and coolant on 99 PS 7.3 question about coolant... capacity stated in owners manual says 32 qts. thats 8 gallons by arizona math. I flushed drained and replaced 4 gallons of new green coolant expecting to have to add an additional 4 gallons of water to get the 50-50 mix. the resevior was full and only went down a little with a good warm up. Is there enough water in the water jacket and undrainable areas of the block to hold 4 gallons of water. Napa says 32 qts = 8 gallons 1/2 that is water 1/2 that is coolant no problem. they're the only ones that are certain... Ford dealer says "that seems like a lot, we only add about 2 or 3 gallons with every flush". doesnt lend itself to a feeling of confidence. also truck doenst seem to over heat - added two bottles of anti-cavitation fluid to coolant as per ford dealer advice. the instructions state 4 oz per gallon so the math works out in my favor. any experience out there?

thanx

 

I had exactly the same experience.

 

Where can a guy get the anti-cav additive? Does NAPA carry something or do I have to go to the stealership? Only had the truck 4 months and only has 80k on it. How can you test for additive concentration?

 

The additive is inexpensive, so just go to the dealer on this one. As far as testing you have to use these little test strips that are available online somewhere or you can get a lot of them at once at NAPA

 

the additive used to be part # "FW-15" now its something else. But it is definitly reccomended every 6 months that you refresh the coolant with additive to prevent cavitation around the water jacket as it will eat through the sleeves, this is per ford dealer and the conventional wisdom of a mechanic friend of mine....NAPA does carry a version of it but I was told the ford brand is actually the best and about $ 1.oo cheaper per bottle.

 

The additive is now called VC-8. Even though the specs say it takes 8 gallons you really cant get in more than 7 total including the added VC8.
More than likely you will need to add a total of 3 pints of the VC8 to get your cavitation protection where you want it after testing. I just did this within the past month so all of this info is still fresh on the mind

 

Ive always been told it is a better idea to run pure antifreeze. Especially where I live. This time of year we have been seeing 105 pretty often. I know water cools better than anti, but anti does evaporate. Any input on the theory?

 

Correct, a water mixture will cool better than pure antifreeze. I'd run a 50% ratio and not pure antifreeze.

 

NO no no!!! The antifreeze will do an adequite job of carrying heat, but my biggest fear is the buildup of scale due to the high concentration on the inside of the cooling system (water jacket, radiator, etc) that will act like an insulating blanket. Preventing the proper transfer of heat from the engine to the coolant, to the radiator, through the fins and out into the atmosphere.

 

I see what you mean KWIK. My old man has run pure antifreeze in all of his farm equipment ever since he moved down to blistering heat of south texas. We know several people who have blown engines by doing the other extreme- running pure water.

I know I have never truly run pure in my autos cuz there is always some in the block that you can never really get out. When I replaced a thermostat in my stang, i replaced the amount that was lost with pure.

Its getting harder to do though cuz many auto parts stores only carry premixed antifreeze these days.

 

I just wanted to clarify my post above. CORRECT that water cools better than antifreeze, but it is INCORRECT to run pure antifreeze.

 

If you all want to take it a step further, consider Evans coolant. Non water-based coolant. Lot's of money to do so, but you'll never boil over.
Or a less expensive alternative is Redline Water Wetter. Racers use it with just water, but they usually drain the system after the race. There's more information on thier website.