I am trying to identify the paint used on the heater box in our 51 F1. The paint is a grey / silver color and has what appears to be a crackle finish.

All searching and sources I have talked with to date state that the crackle finish was not standard and it must be due to heat or age. The crackle is so consistent that I find it hard to believe that the it was not done this way from the factory.

Is this crackle paint texture correct?

What color paint is this, I was assuming the Argent Grey that was used on the grill, but not sure.

Thanks for your help,

David

 

The paint you are looking for is called "Hammer tone". I'm not sure who makes it but it used to be hard to find but now I see it in a lot of hardware and home center type stores. It comes out having a mottled finish and it's pretty tough paint. I comes in a rattle can.

 

I know about hammer tone, but is that the original texture?

 

There were several heaters, post a picture of yours. My factory ford 1950 was a hammer tone silver color. I bought the Rustoleum paint and it was very close.

 

I will have to get the body guy to take a picture for me as it is being restored a significant distance from where I live. As soon as I can get them, I will post.

Personally, the match doesn't have to be perfect, just close to what the original was.

Thanks,

David

 

From what I found on the backside of the heaters I have had, hammertone is almost an exact match.

 

If you had the Magic air heater the hammertone is exactly what you want.
I have a picture of it in my gallery. I used it to fill in the areas that needed to be freshened up and left some of the original finish, and they blend well together.

 

As I remember, the hammertone paint comes in a variety of colors. What specific color did you use? I can't remember if there were more than one silver / grey colors in the hammertone.

 

Updated:

I found these two products:

Hammertone Silver:
http://purplecranium.com/wsm/i-189_s...ammertone.html

Hammerite Silver Grey (local hardware carries)
- See link for Eastwood Company product description.
- Search on Hammerite Silver
- http://www.eastwoodco.com

 

I know hammertone paint comes in at least two colors, silver and a blue. I used the silver for my heater box, heater control panel and turn signal switch. I also use it on parts that were originally zinc plated but became rusty and I sand blasted. It's cheaper than having the parts replated and since I don't do show trucks it doesn't matter.

I have used the blue for other non-truck projects like switch boxes.

 

Bob,
Don't know if you would be interested or not, but there is a pretty safe way of plating zinc at home. A cup of sugar and a cup of epsom salt in one quart of vinegar makes the solution. Throw in some sanded down pennies, or better yet, the zinc you can buy at hardware stores for moss control on roofs. Let this soak for a few days. Then, use another piece for the electrode, this is hooked to the positive lead from a battery charger or model train transformer. The part you want plated is hooked to the negative. It has to be clean, of course. Put the current to it, and after lightly polishing it, presto. I've done it to choke cable plates, old oil bottle spouts, light bulb retaining rings, fasteners, old Holley bodies, etc. Cheap to do.

 

That sounds extremely interesting. I will definitely try it. Thank you very much. How long do you estimate you have to leave the part in the solution? I would imagine the larger the part the longer the procedure.

 

I use the train transformer. The positive lead I use like a wand. You can get into corners, otherwise it is line of sight. You can watch the zinc transfer onto the part.
Some original parts were dull in finish, others were brighter, as you may have noticed. When you first pull the part out, it will be very dull grey, but you can polish it up. Some wheel polish on a cloth will brighten it some. Polish on a brass toothbrush will brighten it quite a bit.

Timewise, you're talking minutes. It takes some trial and error. The bigger the piece, the more juice you want. Too much juice, and you will get a thick prickly plating.

If I want to clean up a steel piece, I throw it in some muriatic acid for a few minutes. A bead blaster would work, also. Then, without handling it so as to keep the oils off, it is hung on a wire inside a plastic gallon bucket. I've re-used the same solution quite a bit.

I was given the train transformer, due to its adjustable output, otherwise I use the battery charger. It's hard to control if you have a small piece. You can only move it so far away from the electrode. The 30' x 2" roll of zinc set me back $15 at a hardware store. It looks like it will last me forever.

If you like experimenting, it is worth your time. With a little practice, you can be proud of the results. It sure beats the look and durability of paint. Let me know how it works for you.

I like your site, btw. I've emailed you before, I have the 1952 F-3 M-H.

 

Rustoluem sells a Hammerite type spray paintblk silver blue red etc
it also hides small rust pits
because of the ringle finish
Ace sold it

 

Thanks again, I will have to experiment with it sometime.