My 92 E150 pulls to the left when I apply the brakes. I looked at the right side to check the caliper and on the right side the inner pad was worn far more than the outside. The caliper pins were hard to get out and rusty. I cleaned the pins up and put a new caliper on the right side. I bled the brakes and test drove. The van still pulls to the left. I thought I had it but I was wrong. Please give me some suggestions as to what could be the problem. I thought since it pulled left the right caliper was sticking (not working) and so changed it. Could a defective caliper on the left side make it pull hard when the brakes are applied or must it be something else? Any replies are greatly appreciated.

 

Brakes like to be done in pairs. Pull both calipers and make sure all sliding surfaces, pins, and bushings are free of corrosion and lubed. Make sure the out board pad moves freely on its hanger. Does the left brake release fully? A gummed up caliper of a bad flex line can cause it to drag.

Also check your tie rods, ball joints, and controll arms for safeties sake.

 

Thanks pepper. I've checked the left side that pulls and the pads look normal, both have a lot of pad left. What I did notice was that the left rotor on the inside is very scored and even looks like some surface metal has come off in spots. Could this make the pads stick and grab thereby causing the brakes to pull? Also, to change the rotors it looks like a big job, wheel bearings need to come out and be repacked and torqued, etc. Is changing the rotors a job for a novice like me or should I take it to a garage? Thanks for any replys

 

Something as simple as low air pressure in the left tire can make it pull to the left when braking. Alignment will affect it also. Your rubber brake hoses can also deteriate to the point that they affect the flow of fluid to the caliper. And pepper is right, do it in pairs. If it's never been done, it wouldn't hurt to install new rubber hoses and flush the system with new brake fluid anyway. It's usually worth it in the long run, especially in a situation like yours where you already have issues with the whoa pedal.

 

Owl,
Yes, I do believe that your rotor is the culprit. At the very least it is in definite need of service or replacement. Removal of the front rotors, without 4 wheel drive, is very simple in that there is only 1 nut holding them on. I'm sure it is within your abilities since you've already done the hard part dealing with the calipers. Just work safely with jack stands in place whenever you are even slightly under your vehicle.

Here are 2 links on removal and proper wheel bearing adjustment.
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/85/cc/0900823d801785cc.jsp#hd1-1-2

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/4d/68/0900823d80174d68.jsp

When torqueing the wheel bearings notice that the initial torque setting is ft lbs.
The next setting is inch lbs. Or just use the newton meters scale.

Mr Peach is giving you solid advice also. Good brakes are good 4 U.

 

A mistake I made when my truck wass pulling to one side was assuning that it was the front brake that was causing it. Check the rear for broken, missing or maladjusted parts and make sure that the self adjusters are working properly.

 

Update: I have put new brakes on both front and back. New calipers (rebuilt) pads, rotors and lines on the front. The van stops great when cold, nice and straight. When driven, stop and go for about 15 mins and the brakes start to get hot, the van pulls to the left again. If I really stop hard even after hot, she will stop straight, no pulling. When she does pull its with normal stopping pressure. Any ideas? After paying all that money to the garage I'm ready to pull my hair out. Please help. The mechanic said to drive it for a couple of weeks and if it still pulls, he will start changing calipers and try that.

 

Have you checked other elements of your steering for balance? A very slight problem can be eggagerated by brake pressure. For example, worn end-links can allow the wheel to "slop" from one side of ball joint to the other under acceleration/braking. Mine were badly worn for a while and I got used to compensating for the problem with the steering so much that when I finally fixed it, I would steer into the opposite lane a little while braking just out of habbit

 

Check the rear brake adjustment.

 

if a vehicle pulls to the right when stopping that is the side that is getting the grater braking force regards shovelhead