I have a 71 lincoln 460 with stock 78 heads...or d_ve_a2a heads...not sure of the year since there is no number on either head...i was told they are 78s...anyway...will the pistons have enough valve clearance with the Comp rv cam...514/524 I think...and what about valve springs...what is the max lift i can get with the stock springs...oh and while Im here....I was setting the timing and somehow i pulled the oil pump drive shaft out when i pulled the dizzy...(apparantly Im an idiot)..what is the easiest way to get it back in without taking the front end off or dropping the oil pan/ oil pump....i was thinking about swapping cams if i had to take the frontend of the motor off. Oh and someone please run some numbers for me on their dd...71 460...060 over...stock 78 heads...almost stock cam...then the rv cam...performer 460 intake...maybe like 9:1 compression...truck avenger 770 carb....it just doesnt have the power that i feel it should have...thanks guys...sorry for the book.

Keith

 

I'll toss in what I know.

1) The casting number is below the edge of the valve cover, directly above the third exhaust port from the left.

2) P-V clearance should be fine with either of the milder Comp Extreme 4x4 cams, unless you have the cam drastically out from where it should be. Use a quality timing set & degree it, if you can.

3) The stock springs will work, but they are probably very tired. If you don't want to spend the $$$ for the Comp springs, Maddog Racing on eBay has a generic set for $39.00 that work just fine. I wouldn't use any more lift than .520 or so for safety, unless you are willing to check the retainer to guide clearance and valvetrain geometry. What rocker arm style do you have?

4) As far as the power is concerned- first of all, depending on what pistons are in it, with D3VE heads (1973-later, you could have as low as 7.8:1 compression. With .060 overbore it will be slightly higher even if the pistons are dished, but not much. Need more details on what pistons were used.

Whether or not you swap the cam (use the early timing set or a good double roller like the Ford Racing set), the two biggest areas to look at are 1) the distributor & ignition curve; 2) the exhaust system. Again, need more details on what you have.

 

ok lets see...i know where the numbers are on the heads but there is no numerical number on the heads...here is what is on both heads...d*ve A2A...there is no number where the * is...the heads are bone stock as per the guy that sold me the motor, with regular non-roller rockers...im not sure about what type of pistons are in there...i bought this motor already rebuilt from a guy with about 3000 miles on it for about 500 bucks...he said a buddy of his that is a mechanic rebuilt it but he wouldnt tell me whats in there...the guy said it was from a 72 continental...the block says its a 71...he just said that it was pretty much a stock rebuild with all new parts with .060 over pistons and a slightly more than stock cam...sorry for not being very informative but thats really about all i know...my old 400 that was in the truck felt stronger than this one does....just curious on some numbers. Im running stock exhaust manifolds with duals right now until i get some more cash for headers. Im using my old 400 dizzy aswell....probably should get it recurved huh. let me know if u need any more info.


Keith

 

The block will have a D1VE casting number as the same block was used 1971-1979 & replaced by the D9TE truck block. Assuming the pistons are a stock dished style replacement for a 71-78 block (or later), you probably have around 8.0:1 compression with the .060 overbore, give or take. Most cast "rebuilder" pistons have a low compression height, which means they sit low in the bore and therefore have lower compression than if they were set at the optimum height.

The stock exhaust manifolds are awful- according to some people, as bad as 50 hp down from the avg. set of headers. I have not dyno'd the manifolds as a comparison but I'd guess the 50 hp figure would be close only IF the exhaust system was a single pipe/muffler. With decent duals, like 2 1/2" pipes & decent mufflers, figure maybe 25-30 hp gain with good long tube headers.

Without knowing the cam specs it's difficult to give a power figure. My baseline figures for my '77 460 dyno mule were about 230 hp & 410 ft.-lb. torque (peaks), stock except for dyno headers, & tuned well. I'd guess yours as it sits right now is about 245-250 hp & 425 ft.-lb., assuming a typical "RV" cam. That might be a little optimistic.

If you are using the Duraspark out of a 400, the curve is very, very, slow. One of the posters here, the "Mad Porter" (Scott Johnston) will either curve your dizzy, or, possibly more practical, sell you one outright set up for your combination. The cost isn't too much over an AutoZone special. Or, if you are feeling brave, his website (www.reincarnation-automotive.com) has instructions. He can also custom grind a cam for you for a pretty good price. Worth looking into. I'm not connected up with him but can recognize a good deal when I see it. The Comp you mentioned will work well also. I'm assuming this is in a truck, or heavier car.

As I mentioned use the early '68-'71 timing set if you want to go lowbuck, or a good double roller. The Ford Racing sets are good; the Cloyes 9-3122 is good (about $98.00); or, the Comp 3122 is the exact same set repackaged, for $76.00. I can speak for the quality of these three; other DR sets I've looked at were hit-or-miss as to the accuracy.

So, headers, better dizzy curve, & the cam if you want; should warm it up considerably. If you want more you will need to improve the exhaust posts, which is fairly simple to do. Good luck!

 

Thanks Homes...this motor is for a 1980 F250 long bed 4x4...it clocks in at about 7500 pounds or so...8000ish with my 4 wheeler in the back...i want it to get up and go when i stomp it, One more question...do you have any tips on getting the oil pump driveshaft back in without taking the motor apart? I appreciate your help.

Keith

 

Most shafts have a special washer (the name escapes me) that prevents this from happening. Obviously the mechanic left it off, or he may have put the shaft in upside down. I have not tried this personally...but I've been told you can very carefully and patiently lower it back in with a mechanic's extension magnet. If it does have the washer on it, I'd remove it before trying it. I guess at this point you have nothing to lose.

Depending on your definition of get up & go, if the mods I mentioned already aren't enough, more compression & better exhaust ports would help. One semi-lowbuck method is to swap C8VE, C9VE, or D0VE heads onto your shortblock. With your overbore that will put it around 9.5:1 or so. The ports could easily be modified at that time. The simple solution is to simply grind out the Thermactor bumps; that will help quite a bit, but a better approach would be to port them in a more sophisticated fashion or have it done. Scott's website has instructions on this as well, though I believe he does charge a one-time fee to access them.

The dizzy recurve & headers would be your best bang for the buck right now. Your carb & manifold are just fine.

 

I had the same thing happen to me. The lock down washer was damaged and the shaft fell out of the pump. I took a 5/16 long shaft nut driver, available at most electronic tool suppliers, and slipped it over the pump shaft. I secured it to the shaft with a turn of electical tape and ran the end of the tape up the nut driver to the handle. I was able to insert the shaft back into the pump this way. Turn the nut driver to make sure that you are actually in the oil pump. Then all you have to do is pull on the loose end of the electial tape to release it from the pump shaft and carefully lift the nut driver out of there. Put the dizzy back in and you are set, but remember to keep the nut driver because this is going to happen again. Also you can't get to it by pulling the timing cover. (at least on mine)

 

Thanks....ill try that if it happens again....i just dropped it down in there a few times and got lucky...it doesnt sit in the center of the hole tho?????but i put a nut driver on it and u can hear the pump turning.....im trying to get it to fire as we speak...but im gonna wait a bit until i get an answer from you guys if it is or is not suppose to be centered in the hole.....the shank on the dizzy will center it ...right? This engine swap in turning out to be a little more than i was planning...its all the little things...putting the motor in was the easiest part, it only took a nice sunday afternoon and a 6 pack for my buddy who helped me...

Keith

 

From what I can remember it should be centered. You could take the plugs out so that it turns freely, put the dizzy in and crank the engine. If you get oil pressure it should be ok.

 

ok...i have tried it ur way and my way...it still wont center itself in the hole...i can put a socket on it and turn the pump....when i turn it i can hear liquid (oil) moving....but with it being off center like that, its not letting the dizzy fall all the way down...it has about an 1/8 or so left to go down...i checked the drive shaft and it is not bent or anything....what gives?? Thanks for the help...

Keith

 

If it was like mine the shaft will not come completely out. If it will come completely out then pull it out and look down into the hole and see if the pump is centered. I asume this thing was working before all of this happened. Maybe one of the bolts came out of the oil pump and the pump has shifted. I assume that you tried tapping on the dizzy. Sometimes the "O" ring won't set in. Otherwise I am stymed. I would be willing to come by and look at it if you were in the High Desert area. Best of luck. Gary

 

It will come totally out...and i didnt see a lock of any sort either...and yes it ran before with good oil pressure until i was trying to tweak the timing just a bit more...thats when it got pulled out...i havent tapped on the dizzy but i have jiggled it...ill go try again...yea i dont think im anywhere near Cali.... Im in the deep south of Alabama.....just a little drive....but hey...its the weekend, come on down.....is there a way that it could be upside down...how can u tell...both ends look exactly alike...

Keith

 

Should be more or less centered. Won't be perfect, but shouldn't be wildly off either. Maybe a piece of junk fell into the pump shaft.

The shaft ends are reversible, that's why sometimes a mechanic/whoever will put it in upside down, not understanding what the "lock" is there for. Some shafts don't have locks, or they are removed.

 

ok...well i got it in now....but im still having timing probs...i set #1 to TDC and then dropped in the dizzy with the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap...then i turned the motor over and got a real loud backfire...so i spun the rotor 180 deg...then nothing....I can rebuild a whole motor but cant get the durn thing in time.....im still learning this part, but its taking some time....Im not retarded just a little slow.... anyway (me praying) Dear Lord please let my motor run........

Keith

 

Keith,
Be sure and recheck your plug wires before you do anything else. I have worked on a lot of engines but I still get them screwed up now and then. The last time I had mine down I reversed the 6 & 7 wires and it backfired like heck. Actually follow the firing order around the distributor to make sure a couple are not reversed. Good luck, Gary