E150 fuel filter (5.0) How do I get disconnect it?
#16
05-17-2005, 10:29 AM
wirelessengineer,
The style of tool previously suggested is correct for your application. The stainless steel fitting on the end of the fuel lines has three spring loaded fingers around the circumference that lock onto the enlarged area on the neck of the fuel filter.
Take a look at your new filter to see the enlarged area and imagine that your first two fingers and thumb are the spring loaded fingers as you grasp the end of the inlet tube of the new filter.
The tool is a circle that is hinged so that it can be opened and placed around that small portion of the inlet and outlet neck of the filter. It has a set of thin lips that slid up inside of the fitting on the end of the fuel line and come between the spring loaded fingers and the enlarged area on the filter neck, disengaging the fingers from the neck and allowing the fuel line to be pulled from the filter.
That being said, there is another style of tool that I believe is made by KD or Lisle ( I can get the part number for you if you like) that is available from NAPA on the odd tool rack found in their stores that is sort of a pliers type tool in the form of an X and is about four inches long. The pivot point is right in the center. It has a different size tool on each end. In my experience it is much easier to use and has never failed to get the line loose. I had one of the sets of nylon circular style tools, similar to the first one pictured above that has failed me twice.
You will loose a small amount of gas when you do this job so use caution around pilot lights etc. Reinstallation doesn't require the tool. Simply slide the filter neck into the hose, noting the flow direction, and it will snap into place.
Gene
The style of tool previously suggested is correct for your application. The stainless steel fitting on the end of the fuel lines has three spring loaded fingers around the circumference that lock onto the enlarged area on the neck of the fuel filter.
Take a look at your new filter to see the enlarged area and imagine that your first two fingers and thumb are the spring loaded fingers as you grasp the end of the inlet tube of the new filter.
The tool is a circle that is hinged so that it can be opened and placed around that small portion of the inlet and outlet neck of the filter. It has a set of thin lips that slid up inside of the fitting on the end of the fuel line and come between the spring loaded fingers and the enlarged area on the filter neck, disengaging the fingers from the neck and allowing the fuel line to be pulled from the filter.
That being said, there is another style of tool that I believe is made by KD or Lisle ( I can get the part number for you if you like) that is available from NAPA on the odd tool rack found in their stores that is sort of a pliers type tool in the form of an X and is about four inches long. The pivot point is right in the center. It has a different size tool on each end. In my experience it is much easier to use and has never failed to get the line loose. I had one of the sets of nylon circular style tools, similar to the first one pictured above that has failed me twice.
You will loose a small amount of gas when you do this job so use caution around pilot lights etc. Reinstallation doesn't require the tool. Simply slide the filter neck into the hose, noting the flow direction, and it will snap into place.
Gene
#17
05-17-2005, 10:41 AM
The tool I referred to in my previous post is a K-D 3321 quick disconnect tool.
You can see one pictured at this link.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi04.html#3321
One other thing I should mention is that the proper procedure for changing Your fuel filter calls for depressurizing the system first. I've done it both ways. Be careful.
Gene
You can see one pictured at this link.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi04.html#3321
One other thing I should mention is that the proper procedure for changing Your fuel filter calls for depressurizing the system first. I've done it both ways. Be careful.
Gene
#18
05-17-2005, 08:44 PM
Thank you, Gene. I'll buy one from that site and save myself the trouble of hunting for one locally.
Thank you very much!
Oh, no problem about pilot lights - I'll be working outdoors.
What's the best way to depressurize? Other than crawling under, opening my mouth wide and popping the line off the filter, that is...
Thank you very much!
Oh, no problem about pilot lights - I'll be working outdoors.
What's the best way to depressurize? Other than crawling under, opening my mouth wide and popping the line off the filter, that is...
#19
05-17-2005, 09:04 PM
Two choices on depressurizing. Open the dog house and bleed the pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. This method is best done with a fuel pressure test gauge that has a bleed tube on it so that you can catch the gas in a can or bottle etc.
The second method would be to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine over for 10 seconds or so. That may make it set a code, not sure.
I bleed mine using the first method. The reason that I bleed it was that I was using the other style of tool and it never would release all of the spring finger gizmos, so I thought it may be the pressure on the line causing the problem. It wasn't.
You will need to loosen the band around the filter sufficiently for the large for the filter to slip through and completely remove the two safety clips that are shown in your pictures. Then pull the fuel line away from the filter as much as it will go. At that point the you will be able to apply the tool, closing it around the pipe coming out of the filter, and pushing the lips (or duck bill looking part) of it inside of the end of the fuel line fitting. Once the tool is inserted, simply pull the fuel ine from the filter and repeat on the other end. Again, be prepared for the fuel to come out and replace the filter quickly.
It's simple when it work correctly and a pain when it doesn't.
Gene
The second method would be to remove the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine over for 10 seconds or so. That may make it set a code, not sure.
I bleed mine using the first method. The reason that I bleed it was that I was using the other style of tool and it never would release all of the spring finger gizmos, so I thought it may be the pressure on the line causing the problem. It wasn't.
You will need to loosen the band around the filter sufficiently for the large for the filter to slip through and completely remove the two safety clips that are shown in your pictures. Then pull the fuel line away from the filter as much as it will go. At that point the you will be able to apply the tool, closing it around the pipe coming out of the filter, and pushing the lips (or duck bill looking part) of it inside of the end of the fuel line fitting. Once the tool is inserted, simply pull the fuel ine from the filter and repeat on the other end. Again, be prepared for the fuel to come out and replace the filter quickly.
It's simple when it work correctly and a pain when it doesn't.
Gene
#20
06-23-2005, 06:04 AM
Well, I took the easy way out. My throttle is still sticking, and getting worse, but I think I found a good shop this time. They worked on it a full day and didn't charge me, so that's a good sign.
So while I had it in for that and a general tune-up, I had them replace the filter.
I did get the tool, though. Seems like a decent place to do business. Quick shipment, everything as advertised.
"Everything"? Well, I couldn't buy just ONE thing, could I?
So while I had it in for that and a general tune-up, I had them replace the filter.
I did get the tool, though. Seems like a decent place to do business. Quick shipment, everything as advertised.
"Everything"? Well, I couldn't buy just ONE thing, could I?
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