I have a 93 F 150 6 cyl with an abrubt and extreme leak near the back cylinder. I want to buy the gasket and replace it ( I alread tried snugging down the bolts to no avail).

I bought a cork gasket. Is that OK? Do I need any kind of gasket sealer?

How tight do I tighten the bolts down? (It appears to be a very thin metal plate.)

And I am Irish and Murphy's law is haunting me. What can go drastically wrong here? ie a big glob of dirt dropping into the block that scratches everything up and makes my black beauty burn oil like a derrick fire... and winds up costing me half a million in heart aches... Any sage counsel?

Thanks.

 

I assume you mean the valve cover gasket.

Just take it slow. Clean the area before placing the new gasket and be careful not to drop a bunch of gunk into the engine. You only need to use enough RTV to hold the gasket in place as you line up the cover. I prefer the rubber gaskets that have metal grommets so they are not quite as susceptible to gasket crushing. Also, if you can buy some spreader washers (up to about three inches long) to disperse the pressure of the bolt across a wider area of the cover. Don't overtighten the bolts. Check your manual for the proper torque specs, or just tighten them until snug. Make sure that you check the bolts the first day, then after one week, then after one month; just to make sure they are snug. And monitor the area around the cover for leaks. If you have a leak, then try to tighten the bolts a little, but still do not overtighten and crush the gasket.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

No, he's talking about the push-rod cover gasket (driver's side of a 300). I had the same problem with my '93 about 4 months ago. Limped to a shop after buying and using a couple quarts of oil over 15 miles. Had it replaced with a neoprene gasket for about $100. You'll save a bundle doing it yourself.

Slik's right. Take your time and torque the bolts according to specs, and you should be fine. Wouldn't hurt to spray the engine off a bit first, if you are worried about crud dropping in there.

 

Ive had to replace the lifter galley gasket on my 300 as well and I got the rubber / neoprene one from Fel Pro . I also got some stuff from Ford called Super Seal that I used to help seal it all up . Torquing the bolts is very important to the seal not developing another leak . Check the cover to make sure it is free of the original cork gasket and that it is not bent . Also its a good idea to replace the grommets ...I think the Fel Pro gasket set comes with new grommets ? Its a hard area to torque the bolts so just take your time with it .
Paul

 

once again, I have received just what I needed. I do not have torque wrenches so I will just go until snug, then check every other day or so.... tightening if necessary.

I can only presume that the consensus opinion is that the cork gasket is not as good. True? I already have one here, and wondered if I decide to use it , if i need some sort of gasket sealer.

Also, I was wondering if I must first drain the oil or anything? Is oil going to come gushing out when I loosen the bolts? One more tidbit of info and I will dig in and fix the sucker. (those of you who know what you are doing must just be patient with guys like me... even the smallest of tasks take great preparation, hand wringing and stress... :-)) thanks

 

Hey there Familyman,

Definately use the rubber gasket and not the cork.
Get some window rubber cement (the kind they use for fastening new rubber around car windows and such), it comes in a small tube and basically looks like soft rubber.
Put this on push rod cover first, then press the gasket on to it, then put it on the gasket where it will meet the block.
The "rubber cement" (not sure what it is offically called) may seem like it takes for ever to put on but just take your time and work it on a little bit at a time.

You may have to unbolt the coil and move the oil dip stick out of the way for easier access to the push rod cover. There shouldn't be any large amounts of oil the will leak out when you initialy take the cover off.

Also carefuly inspect the rubber bushings around the bolts. The new gasket will come with new bushing, but are usually poorly made to fit properly, so if the old bushings are still in good condition just leave them alone.

I replaced this same gasket on my 95 I6 about 30K miles ago and have no leaks what so ever. I'm a big freak when it comes to oil leaks on my truck, and I've replaced my valve cover gasket the same way and my engine is dry as a bone.

Good Luck.

 

thanks MCL, I knew I could count on this message board... I appreciate it.

I still have two questions however...

1.) Is the cork gasket inferior because it deteriorates faster?
2.) Is the torque wrench crucial for the 6 bolts that hold the plate on?

thanks.

 

Cork gaskets are old technology ...they wont last as long as newer materials . And when dealing with things like this a torque wrench is not nessecary , but they take the guess work out of the job . You can buy a good quality one from Sears or Home Depot ( Husky Brand ) for a reasonable price and they become very handy for lots of applications that require the proper torque . Consider buying one an investment . Trying to do any job without the proper tools always makes the job harder and often results in a redo .
Paul

 

Man, some other guy said it, and I'll say it again. You are a god. thanks....Home Depot here I come!

 

Although I've never rebuilt an engine, the only thing I've ever used a torque wrench for is Heads and Intakes. If you're going to buy a torque wrench there are two kinds - foot lbs and inch lbs. Foot lbs are what you'll need most of the time.
Another trick I've used on gaskets is to use fine sandpaper to sand off any old gasket material that won't come off the mating surfaces. I sand in a direction that circles the area to be sealed. If you've got a Dremel tool with a worn sanding pad it works wonders.

Trail Rider

 

 

hey guys,
did the push rod cover gasket, and it was a damn breeze. I tend to get all worried about everything... :-) I wound up using the cork/rubber gasket because it had it and my truck now has 168,000 miles on it. I'll probably have to replace the motor before I replace that gasket again.

the problem was that the old gasket "slipped" off one end of the plate. It was still in perfect shape...no breaks or anything. I guess whoever replaced it last time was not being very careful... I replaced it with the new one anyways of course.

The one problem I did have which I wish somebody would have prepared me for was rain... just kidding... after I got the plate off and the dip stick assembly off and all that, I still had fits getting it out... It would have taken Houdini 12 hours to escape that mess...

I got it done in about an hour and a half. And it is beyond perfect. My stretch limo is no longer an ecological rolling disaster... thanks to you guys, I can't tell you how much this message board thing has helped me...

 

Familyman ,
168K miles ...its just getting to where all the new is wore off ...If that was a Chevy engine you could keep time with the pistons slopping in the cylinders to your favorite music .
Paul