Forgive a dumb question, but the last time I did any body work people were using lead and Bondo was new and unproven. Now when I look online to see what is available I see such things as long and short fiber fillers - whatever that is.

Same when I look at primer - tried to buy some sanding primer (lacquer type?) and the clerk looked at me like I was an eco-terrorist. He tried to sell me something with a separate "hardening agent" WTF?

Paint is just as confusing - I can buy 4 quarts of oil-based paint, but not a gallon, according to EPA? Needless to say I live in California.

What do you guys use to fill dents, prime and fill scratches and grinder marks, and what sort of paint can I use?

btw, I am a real shade tree mechanic - not even working on a cement floor. I will not be in a paint booth.

 

This is Glass reinforced, Short is easyer to work with, But Long is much stronger..
This is a 2 part mixer that does not shrink or crack.. Less needed in the long run and faster drying..

Thsi is so your paint supplyer can make more money off of you.. Find a Body shop supplyer and they will be happy to sell it by the Gallon..

I use all Dupont stuff myself

Bad news for a paint job.. Wet the ground and do it on a windless day..

 

I've found that Evercoat Rage body filler is one of the easiest to work with, especially sanding. Like any body filler though you want to work most of the dent out and then just skim coat to reduce the potential for any cracking or separation later. It is pricey though, $30+ per gallon. I usually grind the surface to get it clean, work out any dent if needed, add the filler, then block sand dry using 36 grit to get the shape, then 80 grit, then 150 or 180 grit. Prime with uro primer and block sand wet with 400, adding more primer or filling small imperfections with more filler as necessary. Clean well with PrepSol before paint.

 

***** B -

I also use Evercoat filler. I prefer the Rage Extreme. Very good results. Easy to work with. Shape and sand as 56Fun said.

Another excellent product for filling pin holes and grinder marks is Evercoat's Easy Sand Body Glaze. Really creamy and nice. Will go on over other filler and even primer.

As to paint, I won't try it myself, but I am doing all the major body work to try and save some bucks. I use SEM's Self-Etching primer in a rattle can to protect the bare metal while I wait on the paint. I just don't drive it in any weather so it won't rust out on me.

I found all these products at a local Body Shop Supply store. Use the Yellow Pages. Call around to find who carries everthing you want. You'll be sirprised how different various stores can be. Some folks know a lot. Some folks know nuthin. But they all say they are experts.

Also - Harbor Freight carries an air drive In-Line Sander (p/n 91773-0NYH - $40). GET IT! And buy their packs of 36 and 80 grit paper (2.75 X 17.5). It is the easiest way to do a great job. I needed very little hand work after using this rascal. It works really well for curved sufaces and is bulletproof for large flat areas.

Good Luck.

 

Get to know the new products, they will make your life much easier! Evercoat seems to be the defacto first choice in filler materials for the pros, so I go with what has been proven to work. The lightweight fillers are especially nice to work with sand VERY easily. The fiber reinforced is used where strength is needed such as on fiberglass parts. Your paint guy was trying to sell you one of two products, a high build polyester primer (basically a sprayable body filler) or an epoxy primer. The epoxy primer is great for sealing and no shrinkage down the road, will not rust thru since it is not porous. The high build fills scratches and is easily sanded with a longboard to give a glass smooth surface. The reason paint doesn't usually come in gallons anymore is that with the new HVLP spray systems and 2 stage paints you use 1/2 as much paint. It's unlikely you'd need a gallon unless you are painting a moving van!

 

I still see rustolium in gallon but they are limitied as to colors, but I like white gloss. Ed ke6bnl LA county

 

Sorry, guys, didn't do my homework. I have spent the last two days reading about rust on the body and paint foruam. Should have looked there before posting these questions.

Still confused, but working on it. As to the quanities, problem is Fresno county. All oil-based paints have extra EPA and ARB requirments. As a small consumer I can buy quarts but not gallons. However, 4 quarts is cheaper than a gallon can. Apparently this law was put into place to "encourage" body shops to buy spray booths and convert to envirmental friendly paint. I actually live in Madera county and there is a different set of rules - equally stupid - on what consumers can buy.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

I actually live in Madera county and there is a different set of rules - equally stupid - on what consumers can buy.

Anyway, thanks for the help.[/QUOTE]


WillyB, tell me about it. Here is S.F. the rules are even more stringent.

 

This is just another fine example of regulation gone bad in CA. Also, until this year, SF had lesser smog requirements on vehicles than the rest of the state. Their smog levels are not as much a problem because of the prevailing westerly winds. But, where does the smog go to? Right at Sacramento! And I think I can smell some of their paint fumes too. Jag