<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->

Hi All:

I have a 99 F-250 4x4 V-10. I now tow a 26 ft, 7k lb boat. I'm looking at going to a bigger boat. 30 to 32 ft, around 12K lbs to 13K lbs. Do you use a weight distributing hitch? Or, is there a hitch I should switch out to. I have never seen anyone use a weight distributing hitch with a boat like they do with a TT.

It will mostly be for a 5 mile round trip to the boat ramp. However I do plan a yearly 250 mile trip to the FL Keys.

What's the safest way to pull this monster.

Thanks for your help, Bob

 

Make sure you have a Class V hitch on your truck. With the weight of the boat as high as it is (12,000) your estimated Tongue weight would be 1200-1800. Get an Equalizer bar set up especially for the Keys trip. The trip will be smoother and your knuckles won't be as white when you get to your destination.

My 19ft. cuddy weighs about 4500 all up, including the trailer and I pull it with a 93 150. With my GVWR at 5500 it's a bit on the extreme side for the 4.9L but I only go 10 miles one way. However the roads around Baltimore are bad enough to warrant an equalizer to help with the bounce and rebound. The only difference you would have over me is 4x4. stick it in 4L and pull it out of the water, then back to 2H. I take off the distribution bars to put more weight on the rear when pulling it out of the water, but you can do the same by going to 4L.

Larry

 

Your tongue weight will probably be in the 5-7% range which is 600-840lbs of static weight. The dynamic weight when you go over a bump will be substantially higher. If you're using the original factory hitch, it only has a 500 lb tonge weight rating.

If you use a WD hitch, make sure the surge actuator on the trailer can move or you'll have no brakes. I'd reccommend getting an electric over hydraulic system installed on that heavy of a boat/trailer combo. You replace the surge hitch with a solid hitch and then use an electrically activated pump to apply the hydraulic brakes on the trailer. I have this on my boat trailer and love it. I can adjust the pressure of the brakes just like on a travel trailer with electric brakes.

 

Ditto on what was said and check out the ride-rite air bags. They were a nice addition to my truck

 

Towing aside, won't that 30/32 foot boat require an oversize permit for each trip, each way, every time? that's the way it would be here.
Just wondering.

 

FSC:

If I were towing to the ramps and back only, I wouldn't bother with a permit. For the Keys trip, I spoke to a DOT officer who told me they never look at boats as oversized loads if it's towed privately. However, for insurance reasons, in FL you can get a one year permit for oversized loads for $35.00. The only restriction is you can not tow at night.

 

I live here in Fortlauderdale and i belive the oversize limit is no more then i think 8.5 feet wide.. a 32ft boat i would think has a beam close to that if not around 9ft if it were an open fisher..Then again though there are ALOT of 29-32footers comming out of the ramps here that are over the 8.5foot just from looking and i have never seen or hear of a problom...

Ryan

 

I tow a Sea Ray 280 DA on a triple axle (~12K#) to both coasts from Central Fl.. No problems. Have WD Hitch (12K rated), elec/hyd 12" SS disc brakes and also keep a wide-load permit (beam>9'6"=boat only+trailer).

A WD hitch is almost certainly needed when towing a large, long and heavy boat. Your Class V is rated to 12K. The WD should have = or> rating and will definitely increase the comfort and controllability of your trip.

The other comment about surge brake is "right on." If you will be using them (really not recommended with large boat trailers) make sure they are lub'ed and have free movement fore and aft after you are connected.

Even with my setup. I check brakes while driving down driveway, down the 1st street and frequently thereafter.

On yes--surge brakes do NOT function in reverse. So, when are baking down that long, steep ramp with your 12K boat leading the way--you have only the brakes on your truck to stop you. That can lead to a "sinking" feeling on very steep ramps. Elec/hyd brakes function quite nicely in reverse. Use the brakes in manual mode to help with stopping the package.

My buddy tows a 290 with 10' beam-also with wide-load permit. He uses a surge brake system. (he has >1,000,000 miles experience with 18 wheelers and towing almost everything that has wheels) Neither DOT or State/Local Law Enforcement have ever looked at us. (we are legal)

Permit is only good during daylight hours. I really don't want to tow this rig at night. we have some narrow roads out here in the sticks. Not good if there is a problem and you must pull off the road.

Please also be aware that currently-the new Ford Integrated Brake Controller (IBC) (part of the vaunted Tow Command system) does NOT function with elec/hyd brakes. [Small design/engineering oversight on the part Ford.]

If you want one of the best brake controllers out there. try the Brakesmart. Is uses brake pressure to activate and control ANY electric-actuated brake system. Very similar in some respects to the Ford IBC, except that it actually works with most everything.

 

...Welcome kentcalto Ford Truck Enthusiasts! Please read the Guidelines, it will help you to navigate through and understand this site.

We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords!

Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.

 

Kentcal:

Thank you very much. lots of good info. I'm looking at towing a very similar rig. I didn't know about the elec/hyd brakes for a boat trailer. I thought the salt would be a problem.

Thanks, Bob

 

Hockycop,

Salt is a problem with any brake system. If you choose drum brakes, make sure you get a quick-flush option installed with them. If disks, then use SS and still hose them off when you get home.

Otherwise the brakes themselves are mostly troublefree.

Also--make sure you check tire pressures. I run mine at the max 65 psi at all times.

Bearings should also be greased before every long trip.

And tires only last for 4-5 years--even if they still have great tread. The sun and other elements down here kill them even faster than is most places. Plan on replacing tires at about 4-5 years.

Have fun and keep a look-out for "Ka Ching II" 2003 SeaRay 280 DA.

Later

Kent