1996,4.0,EXT,110,000 mi
I have a small leak of PS fluid at the upper pinion shaft where it goes into the rack assembly. I located a seal for like $8. I would like to try to change it out in the car. Best I can tell it will be removed by taking out a snap ring. Then you pull it over the pinion shaft.
Here's the question ---Can the steering coupling (small universal type ) be pulled out of the way so I can install the seal without pulling the steering shaft or the rack assy? Or is the steering shaft that hard to pull? I didn't want to mess with it if I could help it.

I would change the whole rack assy for $70, but I just got an alignment. I'll have to get it realigned again. It's an extra $70 plus the time to run it to the shop and wait. If the seal is relatively easy I'll do that. The leak is small, but I just don't like it. It's 2 or 3 ouces in 500 miles.
I searched by I can't find anyone that has changed the seal.

 

I have a 96 4.0 EXT...

I dont need to do that yet but on other vehicles I have done I have never had any luck getting it apart without at least dropping one side of the rack to clear the steering shaft...

Who has the rack assy for $70 just so I know...
I plan on driving this Aero until the 2020 hovercraft are out....

Besides... it looks good sitting next to my one owner '67 p/u
(that now has power front disc brakes and a late model rear end)

 

Oreilly and Auto Zone have reamans for $70 with core Lifetime warranty. Ford I think is $150 new. Looks like I can pull the whole intermediate steering shaft. Man I don't want to do that. I'd rather pull the rack, but as I said I lose the alignment I just got.

On those you did change (even when you had to drop the rack), how tuff is it. Looks to me like the seal is not pressed into the rack valve body. I think it is held in by a snap ring. So it should come right out and go back in (hope). Man my leak is even smaller than I thought, but it is there. I can see the oil puddle on top of the valve body where the pinion goes in. I just changed the PS pump cause it leaked around the plastic tank, where the oring sealed to the pump housing. Changed the oil and then this leak satrted. Or maybe it was there before, and I just couldn't see it. There was so much oil from the oring leak it was everywhere. BTW, got one from AZ lifetime warranty for $50. Works well after about 400 mi.

 

Truthfully, even if you pull the rack you will not change your alignment.

You should be able to pull it and leave the tie rods atached and drop it down enough to do the work.

Even if you pull it completely and replace the seal you will not change the alignment. The only thing the rack can cange is the toe-in...

If you do not run the tie rods in or out you will not change it. What can happen is you can get the entire rack shifted a fraction to the left or right and it will change your steering whhel position while driving straight.

The fix is to drive down a level road and mark the steering wheel position in relationship to the column. take it home and park it with the steering wheel in that exact same position. Then adjust both sides equally (One side out 1/2 turn the other in 1/2 turn etc)until the steering wheel is straight then drive it again and adjust as necessary.

Even if you take it back in a toe-in adjust is cheaper than full alighment.

 

Might have to go with just the toe-in like you said. Went to get the seal kit but it is just a bearing. Won't do me any good. I'll watch it and change the whole rack when it leaks too bad I guess. I really can't find just that upper pinion seal at all.
Thanks...................

 

Someone posted on this topic awhile back and changed out the upper pinion seal. He removed the dust cover then the snap ring, started the engine and moved the steering wheel back and forth which caused the seal to pop out. To answer your question re:steering linkage, you remove the pinch bolt at the pinion shaft and slightly spread the clamp. There is another pinch bolt midway up the steering shaft. Loosen that one and it will allow the shaft to slide up and down far enough to pull the clamp off the pinion. Don't worry about placement marking as the pinch clamp only goes back on one way - there are matching flat spots on the pinion shaft and and pinch clamp.

It is tight quarters to try to work in. I would agree with pauldee0046's suggestion to just drop the rack and fix it that way. As long as the tie rod end lock nuts are not tampered with, you can knock the tie rods loose, drop the rack and reinstall without loss of alignment .

 

Problem is I can't find the blasted seal!!!! Thought I had it but it was the bearing only. I guess the seal is included in the $45 kit which is for the entire R&P assembly. I'd just as soon replace the whole thing for $70 in that case. Guess I'll just keep an eye on that leak an hope it doesn't grow too fast. Thanks for the pointers.