My truck hates heat!! As soon as the outside temp gets above 75 degrees, if you put a load on the truck in OD or Drive, you get ping, so, does this mean my ECU is not retarding the timing when the air temp is hot? It runs perfect to 75 degrees, the intercooler water temp when this happens is cold ( I can stick my finger in it after all day driving-cool)
I will be replacing the plugs to bosh plat 4's this weekend, since that helped a simular problem on my Mazda.

Any other ideas will be GREATLY Appreciated, if you have mod questions about my truck, I have about 5 other posts with info on it.

 

also while we are at it, are the bosh 4's the best plug, I've heard at first they are, but that performance may drop off fast after 5000 miles?? What other pugs do the readers suggest??

 

I guess turning the mass air meter and temperature sensor didn't work. I used to like those plugs, but something happened with them a long time ago and I can't recall why I stopped using them. In the Lightning I always used Denso plugs. They are really expensive and probably more than you need. The NGK plugs are what a lot of guys are using and are pretty inexpensive. NGK, TR6's gapped .036-.038 should work if you are using a 2#- 4# pulley.

If you are changing them yourself, you need a couple of 1/4" drive 7mm swivel sockets, long extensions, and a 6 pack.

 

Do you know- on a superchip dual program chip, how is the setting changed? I found another toggle switch under the dash today- it seems to be wired to the ECU.

 

There is a switch with two wires coming off of it, usually black and red twisted together and then secured into the chip. I thought you didn't have a chip . Take a look above the passenger side kick panel almost under the dash with a flash light. Do you see a chip sticking out the side? Where is the switch located?

No sales in the forums. Use the classifieds.

 

well crap, that explains it, that is the switch. Now I have to figure out what is Per, and what is stock, or economy. Do you have to turn the ignition off to get it to work correctly?

No, I bought this from someone who bought it at action, so I'm figuring out everything slowly. It did list a dual superchip.

I guess I can have this one re3-flashed, but thanks for the offer.

I have a #4 bottom pulley. It doesn't list a upper pulley number, but my alt is haveing hell, with my stereo, I have some major bulb blinking, gonna half to get a Capacitor and a bigger alt. ,lol-
It never ends, I should have been born rich!!

 

Ahhh...now the truth comes out LOL. Most flip chips are burned with a street side used for daily driving and a race side for track use. Normally the race side is burned for a fuel mixture of 93 and 104 octane.

I am willing to bet that your chip is in the race mode and that is what is causing your pinging. Whatever you do, DON'T flip the switch while the engine is running or the key is on.

Here's what I would do if I were you. I would unscrew that switch being very careful not to flip the switch to the other side. It should be just a little nut in the center of the actuator. Carefully pull the switch from the back and look at it. One side should be marked "1" and the other side "2". Normally, tuners burn side one for daily use and the other for race or whatever nonstandard mode they decide to put on there.

Next, I would go directly to the closest dyno that can measure air/fuel ratio, and get some dyno numbers on it. More importantly is to get the A/F ratio. Do it for both sides of the chip. Hopefully one side will be good and the other side will be lean. You and the dyno operator must pay real close attention to the A/F ratio because you don't want to blow up your new truck. If neither side is good, then you need a reburn.

I see you are in Texas. I used to talk to some members of HALO on the boards sometimes, although I really don't know anybody. I would check out http://www.haloclub.com/ They will be happy to give you any information on local happenings and shops. There are a ton of Lightnings in Texas.

 

well oops,

I did flip it while it was running, before I thought about it. I really thought I noticed the ping stop, but it could have been my imagination.

I run 93 octane all the time, so driveing in race mode wouldn't hurt anyway, I am a very good listner to my engine, so I notice some really suttle changes in engine sounds, and I'm going to half to try it in both modes because I don't really have 100 an hour for shop rental, and another 100 for dyno, witch is what I am finding here in Fort Worth.I'll be real easy with it till I know for sure whats going on with it.

 

The pinging that you can hear is really bad pinging. The pinging you don't hear...well...you know. Try it on both modes and be real careful then. Good luck

 

I ran it in the (other) position last night, didn't really notice much difference, but didn't hear anything, but it was cool outside too. How do they burn the chip without a dyno, I've got to find a shop thats reasonable.

 

I only had about a 10 hp difference between street and race modes. Some burns are mail order, where you give the tuner a list of mods, location, and the fuel you use, and they burn a chip based on all of that.

When it gets colder, I think less than 57 deg, the truck can no longer pull timing out of it so the pinging condition will be worse. I forgot to switch mine from race mode once, and I couldn't even touch the gas without it sounding like a popcord machine. I know you said yours pings when warm out, so I don't know. If would find a local dyno or contact somebody through HALO.
Maybe call some places on this link and get prices. You are looking for numbers right now, not so much tuning.

http://www.dynojet.com/maps/autodynos/tx.htm

 

If you're in Ft. Worth it might be worth your drive to Tulsa. A friend of mine has a Dynojet and gets $40 for 3 pulls with air/fuel. It about a 4.5 hour drive in a Lightning.

 

thanks, I may do that here in the near future.