I had been driving a 2000 F150 4x4 x-cab with the 5.4 since summer of 2013. A few months ago the transmission completely failed. The truck wasn't worth fixing because there was more rust than truck. Here is that truck.





I had tried to sell it for parts, but no takers. I did have a guy call and see if I wanted to buy his truck. It was a virtually rust free 99 X-cab 4x4 that needs a motor. It was nice so I bought it.





It has the 4.6. I am going to swap the 5.4 out of the rusted truck into the 99. I have looked up lots about doing this swap as I have never swapped a motor before. I would consider myself very mechanically inclined, but this is the most extensive mechanical work I have attempted. I know about all the basic stuff like labeling everything and zip lock bags for hardware. I know to put the ac compressor and power steering pump aside to not have to deal with those fluids. I have read the 4.6 to 5.4 swap notes and such, but what I haven't figured out is the actual detaching of the motor from the transmission, and the torque converter stuff. When you get the intake off can you then access the transmission bolts on top? Does the starter have to come off, how do you unbolt the torque converter or do you just pull the motor apart from the transmission and leave the torque converter alone. other than the separation of the motor from the transmission I think I know what I am doing.


Here is how it looked before I took a couple more pieces off.



Any and all tips appreciated. I haven't decided if I am going to keep it or sell it yet, but regardless I have some plans for it I am very excited about. I can't wait to work on it after I get it running.

 

I just did an engine replacement in my 02. It was 5.4 - 5.4 though. But as far as the torque converter, you can unbolt it from the flywheel through the transmission dust shield and inspection hole. If you leave it attached, when you pull the motor, you're going to dump a lot of tranny fluid on the ground.
Removing the intake does allow access to the top bolts of the tranny.

 

Thank you for the info on torque converter. I have made some more progress. I hope to get it pulled by next weekend. It is going slow, but progress is being made. I have decided to clean everything and build it up the way i would want the truck to be, then drive it and try to sell it at a high price. If it sells great, if not then no big deal ill be happy about driving it. Getting that intake off is a pain. Does the fuel rail need to be removed before or after the intake? Thanks for all help. Below is the motors current state.

 

I believe you have to remove the injectors, therefore you have to remove the fuel rail.

 

I WOULD advise you to remove the motor mounts R&L . It will make things easier removing and installing . Because at some point you will have to slide the engine forward coming out . And to slide it back going in .


Very difficult almost impossible to pick straight up and drop down. I worked in Ford dealerships around the time when our trucks were new 97-03 . And we used to lift the cab off the frame to gain access to remove heads and engines.

 

Good point. When I did mine, I didn't remove the motor mounts. Through all the fighting of lifting, prying the mounts clear, then lifting some more I kept thinking this would be easier without the mounts in place.

 

More progress has been made. I will definately unbolt the mounts as a whole. The only lift i have is either a 2 ton chain hoist and a beam, or the front loader on the tractor. I need to make it as easy as possible.
Today i got the throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, and coils off. I need to find a 6 point 10mm for the intake manifold bolts. I was only able to get three off with the 12 point. It slipped off the others. I should get the intake off tomorrow along with most of the harness. I am worried about getting the starter off, but im sure ill figure it out. All tips welcome. I still have to get the ac compressor and the power steering pump off along with the oil cooler. I can't wait till it is out of the truck. That is when the fun starts. I get to actually start making things better and clean it up.

I haven't looked it up yet, but i hope the injectors and fuel rail from the 4.6 fits the 5.4. Mine are rusty while the 4.6 ones are in good condition. If not i will have to get some or really clean then up a lot. They worked fine, buy they are very rusty on the exterior.

This is how she currently looks. It feels weird standing in an engine bay to work on a vehicle when you are 6'3" and 370lbs.

 

Lots more good progress tonight. I got the intake, power steering pump, and ac compressor taken off tonight. Found a very fresh nest under the intake.



The intake did give me some trouble. The 10mm only got about 8 of them off, i had to hammer on a smaller aize onto the rest to get them off. It did claim a socket. I had never broke a socket before, but at least sears will give me a new one.



Overall it is going smoother than i expected.
What i need some help with is the exact order of operations for pull. Once i get everything off i know i need to unbolt the transmission, hook to hoist, unbolt the mounts and pull it forward and then up and out. Is that the correct order for the pull or should mounts be undone before the transmission unbolted or does that matter. I am going to do the actual pull on Friday after work.

It doesn't look like much, but i have high hopes that it all turns out good. Thanks for all the input and help so far. Keep it coming.

 

Not much to update tonight. I got the starter off and got 3 of the torque converter nuts off, but the 4th one stripped. Since there is no room to do anything there i just put the nut back on the opposite side and am going to pull the torque converter off with the motor. If i wanted to get it off i would have to pull the oil pan. I will just deal with the fluid. It will be coming out on friday barring any major hiccups.

 

Are you sure you can't get that nut off ? Even if you have to cut it off . trying to pull it out with the converter might be difficult if not impossible. The room will be extremely limited

 

A classic way to break free a rounded fastener I've used many times is to spin it loose with a cold chisel, the longer the better for control.

I nick the middle of one flank of the fastener, (or a a round fastener nick it centered on the head) then turn the chisel a bit and hit it to get a "bite", After that, I hold the chisel with vise grips and whack until the fastener moves.

You can also grind the end of a long hard punch on an slant to use it like a chisel.

Just plan on enjoying a truck with which you'll be thoroughly familiar. That's more than enough justification for the job.

Many engine hoists don't quite get the engine clear of the truck. Keep that in mind so you can connect your loader to the engine if the hoist doesn't quite make it.

When you reinstall you can use a quality comealong hung off your loader for precise control. I've used Wyeth-Scott cast steel comealongs for decades and they work superbly. I also modded my engine hoist with a pulley on the end so I can leave the boom fully extended and drop the comealong cable into an engine bay.

 

Accidental post...

 

The only way I could get to the nut on the torque converter to either use a chisel or hammer on a smaller socket would be to remove the oil pan. That requires the front diff to come out. I will just deal with that after the motor is out. If it won't fit with it on i will just cut the radiator support.

I haven't been able to stay on schedule due to a structure fire. I was able to make some more progress today. I got the exhaust detached and the last couple of wires off. I cut both of the passenger side exhaust studs that connect manifolds to the rest with a reciprocating saw which took way longer and way more blades than it should. On the drivers side one was broke the entire time i had it and had a c clamp in its place. I was able to unbolt the other one so the drivers side was easier.

Then i began unbolting the transmission from the motor. I got 5 of the bolts out on the underside and still have to get the two out of the top. How many bolts hold the 4r70w to the 5.4? I could only find the 5 from underneath, and the two on the top. I got three from the drivers side and two from the passenger side. These are the bolts i got out.



Where is the other one on the passenger side if there is another one?

Also, how do i get the top bolts out. If they are the same length as the others how do the come out without hitting the fire wall? I can't even get a wrench on the one on the passenger side. I have the one on the drivers side loose, but not out. Any tips?

 

I own the Irwin bolt extractor set. It's like sockets but they have hex ends on them so in tight places you can use a wrench instead of a ratchet. Inside they look like somebody twisted the corners in a swirly pattern. They essentially bite down and chew into the head, removing the bolt or nut. They work great and I have yet to have them let me down. I actually used one on my own F150 torque converter.

Good luck if you're pulling the tq with the engine... I'd do whatever it takes to NOT do that.

 

That kit is in my price range. I reckon ill try that. Once unbolted how do you clamp the torque converter so it stays on the transmission? It doesnt appear to have anywhere to clamp to.