Basically a limited late model w/abc bodies. I'm in S michigan.

Stock lowers and subframes, tube uppers, weight jacks, 3 link rear, 2007 fusion body, 350 chev, .60 over, alum intake, headers, alum 2 sp tranny. about 510 hp, 2900lbs, 9" hoosier tires, turn our 3/8 mile track in 13.8 sec, 100mph AVERAGE...

thats gettin busy...

thanks for the info

 

Quick question, exactly how difficult should it be to press the ball joints out?

Been using a ball joint press I borrowed from Advance Auto, didn't take long to break the 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer going from my 2 foot breaker bar to my socket. Ended up going to Sears to pick up a 3/4 drive socket. So far I've managed to press it out to the point I can no longer see the snap ring groove anymore. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster to soak for the night, will try again in the morning.

Would heat help?

 

Yes heat will help, I used a 4lb hammer & heat after I soaked it with CRC336.

 

Well, I figured out why I was having such a difficult time getting the old ball joint out.

When I was trying to figure out what size receiver cup to use, I used the size the new ball joint would have taken instead of looking underneath the control arm to double check. Big mistake, the stop on the original was much wider than on the replacement, so I ended up using a cup that was about 1/2 an inch too small. Through brute force (2 foot breaker bar and putting just about everything my 6'2" 300 lb frame could muster) I still managed to get the joint out using the smaller cup.

The other side turned out to be much easier with the right size cup, got that one out in around 2 minutes using much less force.

Now I have to worry about getting the mangled remains of the ball joint out of the first receiver cup before I return it.

 

I've seen people here refer to a test for a bad ball joint and i was wondering how you test them. Also what symptoms do bad ball joints cause?
99 F150 4wd

 

The test that I know involves putting the frame of the truck on jack stands such that the front suspension hangs free. Standing on the side of the vehicle, put a big pinch bar under the wheel and lift up. If the lower joint is worn you will be able to easily lift the wheel and steering knuckle without the lower contol arm moving. Symtoms while driving may include, but not limited to, uneven tire wear, loose steering resulting in lane wandering, a clunking noise while the wheels are turned to one side or the other, or clunking when suspension is made to articulate a lot (i.e. drive over a curb with the offending side of the vehcicle). Worst case sceneraio is seperation of the lower ball joint which means you'll be having a very bad day.

Hope this helps,
Aaron

 

How to test a bad ball joint? My ball joint started squeaking. Sounded like a rusty ol farm truck when I would turn sharply or pull up to a stop light. Had my wife turn the wheels back and forth in the driveway and felt the vibrations to pinpoint where the sound was coming from. I guess I got lucky that it started barking at me before it wore a tire down. Thanks to this site, I changed it out no problem. It's on a 2000 2WD so there were a few differences, but for the most part it was simple. Oh yeah..the 2WD has coil springs so I just used a floor jack to compress it when it came time to take the knuckle off the ball joint. That was a lesson learned for me. Hopefully that'll save someone a few minutes and some frustrations. How do you add a picture to your post? I took a pic that I can share for the 2WD users.

 

will these instructions apply to a '00 F250 SCREW 4x2 (assuming the front axle removal being the only major difference in disassembly/reassembly).


Love the site
Thanks!

 

Welcome to the forum fstbckadct

Yes the instructions are pretty much the same.

 

much appreciated Racerguy.

 

Dave (a.k.a. RacerGuy),

In case you hadn't heard in the last couple posts, your post is great on replacing ball joints.

I am currently in the middle of removing and reinstalling the lower ball joints. Upon going to reinstall, I noticed my new ball joints have splines. The holes for the ball joints are smooth. It has been my experience that if something is not splined, don't put a splined part in it. Is this an exception?

Thanks,

MAD80433

 

Some aftermarket ball joints have splines. They do this to help make the part fit tighter in the hole in case the hole isn't perfect anymore. As long as the rest of the part looks right you should have no problems using it.

 

Thanks. Found ones without splines.

 

Im getting ready to do this and the tie rod ends because I have a nasty clunk going on up there. I was wondering. Where did the pictures go?

I have never done this on a 4x4 so I was hoping for pictures.

 

Click on the blue words in the instructions on the first page of this thread.