1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck
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Too bad I forgot what to jumper. I'll look at my manual tonight and repost tomorrow.
Basically, you want to remove the grey plug from the black cylinder that is attached to the slave cylinder pushrod. That grey plug has 6 wires on it and you need to jumper two of them to disable the interlock. Can't remember which ones.
The problem is that I have an intermittent starting problem.Most days it starts just fine but then there are times when nothing happens when I turn the key.All the warning lights come on ,has good strong battery,but not a sound ,no click ,no turnover,dead.I have installed a remote starter into the cab so I can start without opening the hood and jumping the starter relay.Before I start buying parts and taking things apart I wanted to try and jump the starter/clutch interlock switch to see if maybe that was the problem,but I need to know which wires of the switch I need to jump.I have an idea that it may be the starter relay to the elect. control assy. but I'm sure.
>I have an 88 f-150 4x4
>4.9l , I think i'm
>having problems with the clutch/interlock
>switch.Does any one know how
>to bypass or disarm the
>switch so that I can
>verify my problem?
> Tim C.
Tim on my 84 Ford the switch is under the dash, it's a plunger switch. I spent 40 dollars on a new switch, tried to install it and I broke the connector. If the wire would have been an inch or two longer it would have been so much easier to replace. So I cut the connector off and bared the ends and wound the two wires together. I know it's a safety device, but it's the only vehicle I have and I needed to get to work the next day. After 16 years of pushing the clutch in to start the truck, I really don't need that switch anyway, I do it with out thinking. When it warms up outside, I'll put a drop of solder on the wires for a better connection.
I just finished fixing my own interlock switch. All it needed was to be removed for a cleaning and put right back. It was the grease in the switch that got dirty over the years, and, some WD40 took care of it. To remove the switch, unplug it, then pull down on the release tab at the base of the clutch master and pull the switch back a 'lil. Now turn the switch sideways to reveal the top side. The top is actually the retainer and is released by depressing the 2 tabs at the rear and sliding the retainer backwards until free from the rest of the switch . Now you can pull the switch off the clutch rod. Clean it with whatever cleaner you choose (WD40,brake cleaner or simular, no carb cleaner). You can cycle the switch with a small screwdriver to observe the action and see how the switch works. When you place the switch back over the rod, start by snapping the rear section on the rod as close to the c/master as you can.To snap the front section over the rod, you must depress the mechanism inside the switch (pocket screwdriver)while trying to snap the switch over the rod. You will have to remove the screwdriver before the final snap. Now without disturbing the switch, replace the top retainer, and rotate the switch back to normal and push it against the c/master making sure the release tab engages the post on the switch. Plug the wires and enjoy !
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