Does anybody know if Ford put a deeper front sump pan on any 429/460? I was wondering if the later truck 429 had a deep sump and if that engine has the same pan rails as my 460?

Any information would help.

Thanks
David

 

The truck 429 has a rear sump pan that holds 10 qt. Yes it will fit your 460. The pans from a 2 wd truck 460 has a bigger front sump than a car pan.

 

I will check out the 2wd thing, I will call the dealer and see what he can look up.

A local mechanic told me today that the 429 truck engine had a different pan rail, but if they are rear sump then it does't matter, I need the front.

Thanks for the reply.


David

 

I am using one of the 429 truck pans on my motor. It is also the same 10qt. pan that L&L Products sells. The truck blocks 370 and 429 are a D9TE block, same as a 460. The mechanic must be a Chevy guy.LOL!
What are you using a front sump pan on?

 

He is a chevy guy, but he works on all types, I guess he just had a brain f_rt.

I am using the pan on my 1977 F-150 4X4 that I mud drag.
The Hooker headers that I made a big mistake buying, wrap up under the rear of my oil pan on the drivers side so I can't use a rear sump. The front sump that I used last year will not work now that I am going to main studs, they hit the bottom of the pan in the back. (these studs are longer for my windage tray)

The deep front sump pan that Milodon carries is the same depth in the rear with a 9 1/2 inch sump.

Looks like I am going to cut my pan add 1/2 inch all the way around witch will make it clear in the rear and put me right about a 9 1/2 deep sump, so I can use the pick up that Milodon sells for thier pan, maybe it will work.

My front sump pan clears because I have a 6 inch lift in the front for better wieght transfer.


David

 

You would think that a set of headers made for a truck would clear the pan. Have you tried a pan from a van? They are more of a center sump.

Sounds like you've got a good plan to solve your problem. I have the same main studs on my motor and they are LONG.

 

The headers have been a nightmare, I took my transmission out 5 times last year trying diferrent stall converters and you have to take the drivers side header off to remove and install it, that isn't a major job, but when you don't have anybody to help it is just another unnessary thing to deal with.
I also had to build my own engine mounts out of 2 inch square tublar steel and flat plate beacause the header on the passenger side would not clear my frame towers. (tried 2 different types)

Mark from Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard told me yesterday that they have fender well headers for my application that have 2 inch primaries, I am spent out this year (over 6 grand in just the engine, not including my air shifter, traction bars, and transmission work.) But I am going to try them next year if not maybe half way thru the season this year, then I can spend about 365.00 for a good rear sump that is baffled and trayed.

I thought about the van pan, but I just didn't want to spend the money and take a chance on it not clearing, the pan has to be deeper by 1 1/2 inches all the way back to the very back of the pan, the 429 truck pan I thought I could get it pretty cheap, thier is a man localy that has a bus bone yard with 100's of busses. That is why I got the idea to look into that.

Thanks for your input, I have one more question. What pickup did you use on the pump for that pan? If the pumps are the same on that engine then I see how it worked but knowing my beloved Fords everything can change from one year to the next.


David

 

Man! What a nightmare! If those were my headers when they came off for good I would cut em up in little pieces and beat em with a big hammer to get some revenge.

I have Heddman CJ fenderwell headers on my pulling truck and they have 2" primaries and 3-1/2" collectors. They fit my F-250 great and should fit a F-150.

The truck motors use the same oil pump as a Melling M84DHV so the pick-up fits. The pan has one baffle in it and I use a Milodon rear sump tray without any trouble.

 

How much did your headers cost?

Mark said thiers were 350.00 uncoated.

I see you are from Mo., I race some in south east Mo., What part are you from?
I am in western Ky.



David

 

I think they were $420 when I got them about three years ago. They aren't coated either. I had L&L's but wanted something bigger.

I live in cental Mo. near Lake of the Ozarks.

 

Update, the oilpan mod worked to clear my studs, but I have some warpage causing the bolt holes on one side not lining up, I will work with this. I am a little worried about the front and rear, I hope they seal well.

Lake of the Ozarks sounds like a great place to visit, it would be great if I could catch a race up that way and take the family on a short vacation at the same time. Sounds kinda convinent enough that the wife just might buy it.



David