What’s the obsession around here with 15W40? Its viscosity at operating temp is about the same as a 10W40 so there is little to be gained by going 15W40 in terms of oil loss. Besides 10W40 is a year round lube 15W40 is not.

For all the negative comments about its damaging potential and uselessness everyone who has used it to get more miles out of a worn engine or gearbox have not had any bad things to say about it. I have used their transmission formula in my truck . The transmission is starting to show its age (M5OD with 150,000) and the Lucas transmission slop worked well to smooth it out and eliminate some of the chatter when shifting. Did Lucas fix my transmission? No, but it did make it more drivable until I buy a new truck.

My best advice to all of you is to not bother with oil additives unless the motor is shot. Most engines run well for around 200,000 or more using just oil and commonsense.

 

What if your like me and not a single person in the family has an engine with less than 180K on it?

 

Maybe you missed this link.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=5;t=002696;p=

Oh yeah, this person did get Bob's results in his simple irrelevant test, even if it was in a tranny.

This is getting old, this reminds me of the people that used to come to this board and swear up and down about how good Slick 50, prolong, etc were, inspite of legimate evidence saying otherwise. Oh, wait, they still do.

I also fail to see your logic on how "Basically without lucas, you have more wear. With it, less wear. If you wait to add it once you already have wear it will prevent future wear, but not repair damage already done to it. It will always have more wear than the engine that always ran with lucas. ".

Fine statement, but how on earth can you prove this, with out reverting to Lucas's own statements or your own opinion?

Who knew?? To think that the "real" oil Mfger's have had it wrong all these years.

BTW, I used to have a '71 olds with a 454 that had 353,000 mi on the original motor that got nothing but a steady diet of house brand oil and fram filters. I hear that it has pretty close to 450K mi on it now, with nothing but cheap oil and filters. And that was done on the garbage that was called oil in the 70's and 80's.

 

That picture shows absolutely nothing to me. If you ask me, it looks like a spin on oil filter (looking up at it) that has oil dripping off the bottom. Perhaps because i just changed out the tranny oil in a 2000 dodge dakota and there is a spin on for the cooler in there along with the reg. pickup filter. Anyway, the only reason it was done was the pan needed a new gasket and a few of the bolts were stripped. The oil was such a light pink you could barely see it on the dipstick. The spin on filter was exactly the same color as the object in that pic, and the "bubbles" look just like the tranny fluid that was dripping off of the filter. I don't understand why he couldn't take a better picture of the "bucket." Perhaps it actually isn't a bucket and he is telling you it is something that it isn't. Hey this sounds like on that one site...hmm...what was it call again, I think bob something....

 

If it supposidly foams up so bad, how come there is NEVER any foam or bubbles in any oils when i change them and drain them into a pan? Keep in mind this is always done after driving the vehicle for a while so don't tell me that it needed to be circulated in order to do it. Oh by the way, wouldn't my rear axle overheat if the lucas actually did what it does on bob's site? I mean there would be no lubrication and lots of fricton = heat. On one occasion I drove 200 miles non stop and my diff was cool enough for me to be able to keep my hand on it. I checked due to curiosity and also opened the fill plug to see if there was any foam. There was none of course and the oil was as clean as always, also the same color as always (very light, almost clear). That was all i needed to know that his tests are rigged.

 

It's that 15w40 is diesel rated and has more detergency, anti wear additives, anti-foaming additives, and other good stuff, that 10w40 has, but in lower quantities. The big one is detergency. It will clean sludge out of your engine like you wouldn't believe.

15w40 can and is being used as a year round oil. By truckers. I use it in my gas engines and it works good. In fact, I just took apart an old 360FE motor that I used it in. The inside was spotless. Not a hint of sludge to be seen.

 

15W40 is not usually recommended for cold weather operation. The bottles of Motorcraft 15W40 I have around say recommended for use above 20*F, under 20*F use 10W30. Most days in the winter its about that or colder overnight and morning making it a less than ideal winter lube for a gas motor.

 

Hrm. Interesting. The stuff I use is rated down to -17F. Take a look here.

Or if that's not good enough, you could use their synthetic. Rated down to -33F. Take a look.

 

I have used Maxlife in 20W50 before, but maybe they don't make it in that grade anymore, but I would bet you a quart that they do. Might have to have your auto parts store order it in for ya though.

 

use a quart of lucas oil stabilizer every OTHER oil change.. it will slow down leaks.. and stop most of the oil burnin if it is burnin it.. i worked at a oil changin place.. and have Cars come in with 200k-300k miles on it that used it.. i put it in my truck.. so i would have to go with Lucas.. anything lucas i would use..

 

Anyone who uses either product is foolish...all an engine needs is regular oil changes, fresh fuel, regular air filter changes, spark plugs( rarely under 100k these days) and don't lug the engine. Dont let it idle needlessly and don't use junk oil like pennzoil, quaker state, valvoline or ANY generic oil. Don't use a thicker oil , or a thinner one against the manufacturers recommended viscosity. They are made to run the best with the right oil...anything else wull cause premature wear and problems. If you're burning oil , or the engine is noisy amd smoking...a cheap bottle of a gimic engine flush only hides the problem for a minute...Don't be lazy, do a leak down test and see why it's smoking...and fix it RIGHT. nothing in a bottle fixes internal mechanical issues. Saving a dime now will cost you ten times that much later.