I own a 98/f-150/4x4/auto..
How do get the torsion bars out of the a-arms. At the front end of the long torsion bars there is a hex shaped end that is stuck into a hex shaped hole in the a-arm. Do these just slide in? Are they rusted in there? I've tried to pound them out and they won't budge. I need to remove the crossmember but these seem to be all one piece. Help!

 

Here is what I have read in a Haynes manual:

Install a puller, with fingers hooked around the flange running along each side of the crossmember; make sure the puller bolt is centered on the dimple in the torsion bar adjuster arm; tighten the puller bolt until all tension is removed from the adjuster nut.

Remove the adjuster nut. Mark the relationship of the torsion bar to the lower control arm. Push the torsion bar forward, through the lower control arm, until the rear end clears the crosmember and remove the torsion bar adjuster arm.
Pull the torsion bar down and to the rear as far as it will go. If it hangs up in the lower control arm, drive it out with a brass drift.

It also says to grease the hex end before you install it back.

Hope this helps.

 

I removed one of my torsion bars last night. I know what you mean. In short, I succeeded by relieving the tension off the torsion bar by loosening the adjuster bolt, and then proceeded with an 8 lb maul and a punch. Worked for me.

 

So you pounded through the rear hole in the crossmember, pounding forward to knock the front of the torsion bar through the lower control arm and the rear end of it out of the crossmember and adjuster arm? I don't understand? I've been pounding that bar forward with a sledge and punch and it won't give? I've tried heating the ends with a torch and letting it sit overnight soaked in WD40? Both ends won't move at all? HELP ME! Any ideas or is there something I'm doing wrong?

 

After you've got the torsion bar adjuster bolts out remove the nuts and bolts that hold the torsion bar crossmember on and then hit the "key" that the torsion bar attaches to inside the crossmember. If you have an air hammer they work well for this. The crossmember and keys will all move back as one. To remove the transmission you don't really have to remove the torsion bar from the control arm at the front but it does make it easier.

 

you may have to take the control arm off with it.

 

scratch that, racerguy's way is much better

 

What part is the "key"? Is that the metal piece that the adjusting bolt goes into? If so I removed it and all the pressure is of the adjuster arm. How does it come off? Does that end adjuster arm inside the crossmember come off the end of the torsion bar? I un bolted the crossmember and tried to beat it rearwards to knock that arm off but that doesn't work. Explain it a little better into detail?

 

the key is the comma shaped piece that the rear end of the torsion bar fits into. It should just slide off if you are able to push the bar forward through the crossmember.

 

if you do get the bar to come out be careful because the key is heavier than it looks and will fall on you if you are under it. It hurts.

 

Thanks, I've been calling that the adjuster arm on the end of the torsion bar. Whatever? Either way it's got to come off! I'll try beating it again with a bigger hammer!

 

OK, this is starting to tick me off! Heated the "KEY" with a torch, and it still won't come off, even with brutal beating of a 10lb sledge. I tried heating the lower control arm and that end won't budge either?

The truck has 167000 miles on it and has had plenty of winter salted roads and off roading experiences. Would these torsion bars be that rusted or swelled in there?

I'm running out of ideas to get that crossmember out! Please help! I don't want to resort to cutting them out and replacing them!

 

Back to post #6. If you absolutely have to you can take the wheel off and unbolt your upper and lower ball joints and tie rod end. Unbolt the lower control arm from brackets, and drop it down. You should be able to knock it forward and the torsion bar come with it, if it's frozen in the control arm that bad. If the two pieces are stuck together, though, getting it back in is a trick. Helps to have an extra pair of hands.

 

It's usually waaaay harder to get the torsion bar out of the control arm than out of the key.

 

Thanks for the info guys! I'm really getting ticked with this crossmember already. I'll try the "KEY" end with my acetelene torch and hammer again.. Its such a easy looking thing to remove, but when it gets rusted and seized into place what a horror story! I'll post back with my results... Thanks again, Jim