How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints - Page 9

jkpenny376 · #**121** (**permalink**) 09-21-2007, 03:23 PM

is there anywhere to get a diagram of any of this?

ImBroke · #**122** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 08:09 AM

Racerguy, thanks from me also for the excellent write up. I finished up with relatively no problems. I did break a vac nipple for the ESOF off on the drivers side. That knuckle was on there unbelievably tight. Took a sledgehammer to knock the knuckle loose, the ball joints did not want to let go. Trying to beat it off took a brass hammer, bigger brass hammer, mini sledge, and finally a full size sledge hammer. Passenger side came off easily. I copied your write up to a word document, and am putting socket sizes and other tools required, to make it quicker next time. Who would have thought of a 28mm socket?

Racerguy · #**123** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 09:45 AM

You're welcome ImBroke

Good to hear another success story.

jkpenny376 · #**124** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 11:19 AM

Hey ImBroke I would be interested to know all the tools needed when u get it done. And again is there a diagram or book of anykind that shows all this?

Racerguy · #**125** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 12:32 PM

jkpenny go back to the first page in this thread and click on the blue words in the write-up I did. Those will show you pictures of the procedure.

jkpenny376 · #**126** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 02:38 PM

Thanks racerguy for some reason I just looked over that part.....duh. What year model SD were u working on?

Racerguy · #**127** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 02:47 PM

I work on lots of them so I don't remember what year it was. Until 2005 they are all pretty much the same though.

jkpenny376 · #**128** (**permalink**) 09-22-2007, 03:04 PM

Ok that is good to know, mine is a 2004. Im not sure if I am going to have to rebuild the front end but if shocks dont fix my problem then the front end is next. Are parts from NAPA good or do u recommend anther place.

palindromelol · #**129** (**permalink**) 09-25-2007, 03:35 PM

I followed the directions and pictures and replaced my first set of Ball Joints. The guidelines here were perfect.

I'd like to add that separating the hub from the knuckle took me 1-1/2 days, 2 cans of penetrating oil and I needed a 5 foot pipe and a sledge hammer. It was on there hard! A truly difficult task.

The guidelines were great. Thanks.

Racerguy · #**130** (**permalink**) 09-25-2007, 08:23 PM

Good to hear you got it done

twags6 · #**131** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by palindromelol

I followed the directions and pictures and replaced my first set of Ball Joints. The guidelines here were perfect.

I'd like to add that separating the hub from the knuckle took me 1-1/2 days, 2 cans of penetrating oil and I needed a 5 foot pipe and a sledge hammer. It was on there hard! A truly difficult task.

The guidelines were great. Thanks.

Hey guys. I seem to be going the same route as him. Any suggestions on how to make it easier to remove? I really hope this doesnt turn into days.

Gnikhog · #**132** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 07:14 AM

I found that using a punch mounted in my air chisel to drive the 4 hub to knuckle studs from the back made quick work of separating the two. I also found that after doing so, I needed to replace the studs - well worth the $15 expense in time saved. In fact, the stud kit comes with 4 studs, I only needed to replace 2 on each side (the ones I used the punch on).

twags6 · #**133** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnikhog

I found that using a punch mounted in my air chisel to drive the 4 hub to knuckle studs from the back made quick work of separating the two. I also found that after doing so, I needed to replace the studs - well worth the $15 expense in time saved. In fact, the stud kit comes with 4 studs, I only needed to replace 2 on each side (the ones I used the punch on).

How did you put the new studs in? It took a breaker bar and a stud removal tool to get mine out (kinda expected after hammering on them for 4 or so hours). The new ones start, but are hard to turn.

Thanks

Gnikhog · #**134** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twags6

How did you put the new studs in? It took a breaker bar and a stud removal tool to get mine out (kinda expected after hammering on them for 4 or so hours). The new ones start, but are hard to turn.

Thanks

I removed the old studs with a pipe wrench. It didn't matter if I chewed them up because they were getting tossed anyway.

I installed the new studs by threading 2 nuts on one end of the stud and then tightened them against one another (but not bottomed out on the stud). Then I started the other end of the stud into the hub. Because the 2 nuts were 'locked' together I was able to put a socket on the top nut and thread the stud down into the hub without running the nuts to the bottom of the threaded portion of the stud. Once the stud was fully threaded into the hub, I loosened the 2 nuts from one another and backed them off the stud.

As I recall, I ran these new studs in most of the way with a rachet but they did require some effort. This may have been due to how they cut the threads in the hub or perhaps the original assembly used some threadlocking material.

Hopefully my explanation is clear.....

gitane59 · #**135** (**permalink**) 10-20-2007, 06:42 PM

Thanks for the guidance and encouragement to takle this job on my own. My only problme was finding enough leverage and purchase to press out the ball joints. Once I got the joints out every went fine. I just wish i had bought tie-rod end as well as they are on their last legs. Thanks again Get Job