How to replace your Super Duty Ball Joints
#676
I just got back from a short drive around the neighborhood. Things feel and sound alright. (Still lots of popping noises, but I think it's all from the driver's side, and I did the passenger side first since it's what failed the inspection.)
Tuesday evening to Saturday evening. 4 days for the passenger side. Anyone want to start a poll on how long the driver's side will take me? I'm going to run a stopwatch when I get going. I'm guessing 4 to 8 hours now that I've learned so much. (Maybe more if the other brake caliper is flaky, but I'm going to be REALLY careful with it and not give it much of a chance to get out of whack.)
Tuesday evening to Saturday evening. 4 days for the passenger side. Anyone want to start a poll on how long the driver's side will take me? I'm going to run a stopwatch when I get going. I'm guessing 4 to 8 hours now that I've learned so much. (Maybe more if the other brake caliper is flaky, but I'm going to be REALLY careful with it and not give it much of a chance to get out of whack.)
#680
I started my stopwatch as I was rounding up tools, and stopped it when I went for a drive around the block. 6:46. Probably 45 minutes of that was spent looking for the right angle Zirc I dropped yesterday. Finally found it under the other front tire. I must have left it when I finished the other one and drove over it this afternoon. That was a fun hunt with all the leaves in the driveway...
I did have some weirdness with this side I think. When I torqued the bolts on the two ball joints, I couldn't turn the knuckle side to side by hand. I don't remember the passenger side being that tight. After putting the tie rod back on and starting the engine the steering wheel felt okay and the wheels seemed to turn normally. I also spent a while drilling holes in a thicker piece of steel to pull the axle with, all 4 hub studs unscrewed so I cleaned them carefully before reinstallation, and the darn axel seal still took quite a beating to remove even though I popped it out of the knuckle quickly this time.
I definitely notice a lot less popping noises when turning but apparently there are other things on the truck that make little noises.
One concern was that the steering does seem to be a bit off. Truck goes straight for the most part, but after a turn I think it wants to continue a bit in whichever direction I was just going, and on the way back from picking my wife up at work I did get some sort of swaying one time, like an overcorrection or something.
Something I need to double check, or normal for things to feel weird for a bit before settling in?
I did have some weirdness with this side I think. When I torqued the bolts on the two ball joints, I couldn't turn the knuckle side to side by hand. I don't remember the passenger side being that tight. After putting the tie rod back on and starting the engine the steering wheel felt okay and the wheels seemed to turn normally. I also spent a while drilling holes in a thicker piece of steel to pull the axle with, all 4 hub studs unscrewed so I cleaned them carefully before reinstallation, and the darn axel seal still took quite a beating to remove even though I popped it out of the knuckle quickly this time.
I definitely notice a lot less popping noises when turning but apparently there are other things on the truck that make little noises.
One concern was that the steering does seem to be a bit off. Truck goes straight for the most part, but after a turn I think it wants to continue a bit in whichever direction I was just going, and on the way back from picking my wife up at work I did get some sort of swaying one time, like an overcorrection or something.
Something I need to double check, or normal for things to feel weird for a bit before settling in?
#681
I bought parts and pieces of plastic pipe and made both the outer seal driver for the new designed SKF metal seal, but not before being faced with needing to drive the hub seal (the inner vacuum seal). We all do this and I did it too, I looked around my garage for something that might help me drive this seal. I had no transportation and I was desperate! You won't believe it, but my O2 cylinder cap from the torch set most of us have, worked perfectly! I know sounds nuts, doesn't it? Anyway, got drivers side together being creative, dented in my O2 cylinder cap a little and I'm back on the road! Made up a driver from PVC pipe and bought half a dozen caps. You hit the capped end with the hammer (wear safety glasses, trust me) and when it breaks, slap on a new one! Keeps the rest of the driver intact and doesn't cost $100 like the seal driver I found for sale! I'm driver and shared owner with my credit union of a 2006 f250 SD 4x4 5.4 gasser. Many others have posted how they performed ball joint, vacuum seal, hub, stub axle u-joint, and seal assembly and I thought I'd share a bit to maybe help a someone who is stuck without transportation because your working on it, like I was!
Thanks to all of you for helping me! I appreciate it!
Thanks to all of you for helping me! I appreciate it!
Last edited by High-N-Dry; 11-08-2013 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Adding truck model
#682
racerguy, i surely do not want to steal your thunder, but I have done this and have been posting it on "other" ford sites for over a year now
http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf
I just want to try and help people just like you, so between all the how - to instructions out there, I hope people can get this done
I also wrote one on warn hubs
http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/hub.pdf
good luck gang
kenny
http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/ball.pdf
I just want to try and help people just like you, so between all the how - to instructions out there, I hope people can get this done
I also wrote one on warn hubs
http://www.angelfire.com/fang/mercury/hub.pdf
good luck gang
kenny
Cheers brother. If only everyone was as generous with their time.
#683
#684
#686
Well I would have paid 30 a piece as lobg as it stopped that dang bag of marble sound ive had for the past two or three months. Installed new needle bearing and reinstalled and my axle shafts are now tight with no jiggle. Odd because I cleaned the original needle bearings and they seemed fine with no play and they had grease still in them from four years ago when I did my ball joints...... o well problem fixed for me
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup
#687
#688
Just did my entire front end (hub assy's, ujoints, upper/lower ball joints, seals)
IMO do yourself a favor and go to Harbor freight and buy one of their 12ton shop presses on sale. I personally have been wanting a press for several years but never got around to it. I had a coupon and payed 120.00. Yes it is CHINA stuff but it works and works well. The ball joints can be hammered out but the new ones "should" be pressed in.
I love this press and since I work on stuff all the time, it will come in handy.
PS......I had a ball joint tool from years ago made by OTC. Did one using this tool....went to the press for the other 3.....much easier!
#689
I bought the harbor freight 20 ton shop press over five years ago and use that sucker weekly! I made my on break for it so I can bend steel for brackets etc when working on trailers or odd and ends. I probally let other people use it more than I do I always have a cousin or uncle calling to stop over and use "big orange"
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup
#690
I bought the harbor freight 20 ton shop press over five years ago and use that sucker weekly! I made my on break for it so I can bend steel for brackets etc when working on trailers or odd and ends. I probally let other people use it more than I do I always have a cousin or uncle calling to stop over and use "big orange"
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup
galaxy S4 using IB AutoGroup