Next time put something slippery on it. It won't come out.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
Just finished my 2wd tonight. Changed out upper and lower on both sides and changed out the bearings while I had everything apart. I'd had a little paly in the hubs before i pulled them apart - but after inspection, I could have probably repacked them and put them back in. Happened to already have the new parts though, and for $100 in bearings (2wd is considerably cheaper for this project), it's worth that much to not have to take everything apart again for awhile.
How often is it recommended to repack the bearings on the 2wd?
I was planning to get the alignment done anyway before I realized that my ball joints were getting sloppy - but now that the ball joints and hub are all nice and snug, the bad alignment is way more noticeable. (Not that taking the whole front end apart could have adversely affected it...) :-)
When I take it in to do the alignment, will they adjust the steering box like I've seen mentioned in other threads, or is that something I should do before bringing it in?
Thanks again for all the good info, especially Rubey for the 2wd wright up. Saved me a lot of $ this weekend.
My only real snag was formal complaint to the home owners association from a grumpy woman walking her dog that "the back of my truck was sticking out of my garage" (since it doesn't actually fit) and that I was doing "gross repair work", and directly suggesting that I was turning the neighborhood into a ghetto. I'm not so much upset, as sad that this woman is so deluded as to think that a guy working on his own truck in his own garage on a Sat. afternoon with the back bumper of a foot out of their garage... is ghetto, much less that she had so few other things to worry about that she let this be the highlight of her day. Maybe I'm just confused. :-)
I wonder what she'll say in a couple weeks when it's time for a turbo and injector swap? Maybe she'll think it's "icky".
__________________
RoB
F250 2WD Crew w/ bigger torque converter, ISSpro guages
Currently working on: 6637 intake, MBRP 4" exhaust, Riffraff High Pressure Crossover, Garrett Power Max BB turbo, Stage 2 Single Shot Injectors, BP tuner... and new cup holders. Thanks to Clay at Riffraff.
T8R, people like that have nothing better to do, and was probably walking around looking for things to complain about. In dealing with the homeowner's association (if it goes that far), ask them how many other complaints she filed that day, week, month, year. It might be enlightening
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Thanx merc45 & brian42 I got the axle out today. It came after a few turns and prys as merc suggested. I just needed to be sure I wasn't going to destroy something internally. New ball joints are in and a new universal. I bought the new axle seal and dust seal. Now I need to put them on and I can go back together. It's been fun, but it is some tedious work. I understand why the shops charge the way they do. The passenger side should be a little quicker. The learning curve takes the longest. Oh and I of course broke the vac line fitting. I was able to remedy that quick with a 1/8 inch pipe fitting and a swage lock 3/16 stub out (all stainless). I think better than OEM. Merc what local is your father out of. I was heading that way to Jersey (Salem plant) but they cut back the amount of people they need. I will be heading to 3 mile and peach bottom in PA soon. Thanx again guys and don't go any where as I will probably have more questions. I love this place!
I'm just about to purchase new Moog BJ's and wheel bearings for my 2000 F-350 4x4. I found a package deal from Powerstrokeshop.com and was wondering if any of you have opinions on whether this is a decent deal or should I price each part out? With the large amount of parts I need (the truck has been on jack stands outside for the past 6 months with knuckles off, axle stubs out) and I think I can now afford to buy all the parts to get this beast back on the road. OK...now the questions...
1) Here's the package:
Complete 4x4 Front end rebuild kit (3/99 to 2004) This a comprehensive kit that will allow you to have everything you need to replace both front hub bearings and all ball joints both the upper and lower all in one package shipped to your door. When ordering this kit we will need to know the last 8 of your VIN so we can determine the application of the hub bearing. Please be aware that if you have an Early build 1999 model to use these Hub Bearings it will require you to change the rotors to the later style. We can either provide you the rotors or to save on shipping we can give several different aftermarket part numbers that can obtain locally. You will recieve the following:
Moog Brand Greaseable Ball Joints 2-K80026 upper greasable ball joints 2-K8607T lower greasable ball joints 2-F81Z4A322AA Yellow Orings between the hub and knuckle 2-F81Z3254CB Hub seals 2-F81Z1S175HCA Axle seals 8-F81Z1107AA Studs to connect hub bearing to knuckle 8-F81Z1120AA Nuts for above studs 2-Hub Bearing Assy
These include all wheel studs and ABS sensors if applicable. Part Number varies dependent on application. Please provide the last 8 Digits of you Vehicle Identification Numer (VIN) so we can determine the correct ones for your truck.
As you can see this is everything in one box and ready to go so you don't have to make the extra trips after a seal or stud half way into the repair. All parts meet or exceed OEM standards at a fraction of the cost.
2) I want to replace the vacuum nipples that come out of the knuckles. Does anyone have a suggestion to "make" a better one (if so, what did you use) and if not, what is the part number?
Hey Eric I did this same thing on my 2001 F-250. I went to the parts store and found some brass nipples and took the old ones out and just screwed in the brass ones with some teflon tape. I believe they were 1/8 pipe thread.
I'm just about to purchase new Moog BJ's and wheel bearings for my 2000 F-350 4x4. I found a package deal from Powerstrokeshop.com and was wondering if any of you have opinions on whether this is a decent deal or should I price each part out? With the large amount of parts I need (the truck has been on jack stands outside for the past 6 months with knuckles off, axle stubs out) and I think I can now afford to buy all the parts to get this beast back on the road. OK...now the questions...
1) Here's the package:
Complete 4x4 Front end rebuild kit (3/99 to 2004) This a comprehensive kit that will allow you to have everything you need to replace both front hub bearings and all ball joints both the upper and lower all in one package shipped to your door. When ordering this kit we will need to know the last 8 of your VIN so we can determine the application of the hub bearing. Please be aware that if you have an Early build 1999 model to use these Hub Bearings it will require you to change the rotors to the later style. We can either provide you the rotors or to save on shipping we can give several different aftermarket part numbers that can obtain locally. You will recieve the following:
Moog Brand Greaseable Ball Joints 2-K80026 upper greasable ball joints 2-K8607T lower greasable ball joints 2-F81Z4A322AA Yellow Orings between the hub and knuckle 2-F81Z3254CB Hub seals 2-F81Z1S175HCA Axle seals 8-F81Z1107AA Studs to connect hub bearing to knuckle 8-F81Z1120AA Nuts for above studs 2-Hub Bearing Assy
These include all wheel studs and ABS sensors if applicable. Part Number varies dependent on application. Please provide the last 8 Digits of you Vehicle Identification Numer (VIN) so we can determine the correct ones for your truck.
As you can see this is everything in one box and ready to go so you don't have to make the extra trips after a seal or stud half way into the repair. All parts meet or exceed OEM standards at a fraction of the cost.
2) I want to replace the vacuum nipples that come out of the knuckles. Does anyone have a suggestion to "make" a better one (if so, what did you use) and if not, what is the part number?
Thanks a bunch!
--Eric
Eric,
I just did mine a few months back, for everything your getting is sounds like a good deal. On the + side, you will have everything there in one shot and ready to go. The only other thing I would suggest or add, is to replace the sub axles U-joints at the same time, that way you know that everything inside is new and ready to go.
Doc.
__________________
2001 F-250 Crewcab 7.3 Auto 4X4.
Add on's 6637 air filter mod, Full 4" exhaust and a Bull Dog chip set at 65 hp.
TIRE SMOKIN, NOS PURGIN AND TURBO'S SCREAMING THAT IS PMRA DRAG RACING.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
I'm just about to purchase new Moog BJ's and wheel bearings for my 2000 F-350 4x4. I found a package deal from Powerstrokeshop.com and was wondering if any of you have opinions on whether this is a decent deal or should I price each part out? With the large amount of parts I need (the truck has been on jack stands outside for the past 6 months with knuckles off, axle stubs out) and I think I can now afford to buy all the parts to get this beast back on the road. OK...now the questions...
1) Here's the package:
Complete 4x4 Front end rebuild kit (3/99 to 2004) This a comprehensive kit that will allow you to have everything you need to replace both front hub bearings and all ball joints both the upper and lower all in one package shipped to your door. When ordering this kit we will need to know the last 8 of your VIN so we can determine the application of the hub bearing. Please be aware that if you have an Early build 1999 model to use these Hub Bearings it will require you to change the rotors to the later style. We can either provide you the rotors or to save on shipping we can give several different aftermarket part numbers that can obtain locally. You will recieve the following:
Moog Brand Greaseable Ball Joints 2-K80026 upper greasable ball joints 2-K8607T lower greasable ball joints 2-F81Z4A322AA Yellow Orings between the hub and knuckle 2-F81Z3254CB Hub seals 2-F81Z1S175HCA Axle seals 8-F81Z1107AA Studs to connect hub bearing to knuckle 8-F81Z1120AA Nuts for above studs 2-Hub Bearing Assy
These include all wheel studs and ABS sensors if applicable. Part Number varies dependent on application. Please provide the last 8 Digits of you Vehicle Identification Numer (VIN) so we can determine the correct ones for your truck.
As you can see this is everything in one box and ready to go so you don't have to make the extra trips after a seal or stud half way into the repair. All parts meet or exceed OEM standards at a fraction of the cost.
2) I want to replace the vacuum nipples that come out of the knuckles. Does anyone have a suggestion to "make" a better one (if so, what did you use) and if not, what is the part number?
Thanks a bunch!
--Eric
Their "kit" is a good price, but before you buy, check the shipping costs. They were pretty steep several months ago when I was looking for my stuff, which made it not such a good deal for me. I ended up getting my Moogs from www.rockauto.com and the rest of my parts from a local Ford dealer. Since I was buying a lot of stuff, the parts guys gave me a discount that was pretty close to fleet pricing. Overall I actually saved some money (about $70 overall IIRC) by going that route (Rock Auto has free shipping).
Also, if you order a new OEM hub assembly from Ford, the hub-to-knuckle studs (4 of them which are the yellow double-ended bolts in the picture) AND the yellow hub-to-knuckle o-ring (yellow o-ring in the picture) come with the assembly. If you want the nuts too, they are a separate part to order.
The parts in the picture are the hub assemblies, the inner axle seal (that requires the special tool to install), the axle seal (aka dust seal), the ball joints, hub-to-knuckle stud nuts and cotter pins. I would also consider the black o-ring that goes on the locking hub as well.
Just my .02
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
I'm throwing my hat into the ring using OEM parts that are grease-able
above in the link to my kit.
ps: Looks like Ford just raised the price on a few items so the other sites price looks like it changed also. So after market might be cheeper.
But if you want OEM and a complete kit(except zerk) check out my kit.
Ed
Do the hub bearing assemblies still come with the studs, o-ring and ABS sensor?
When I bought my OEM hub assemblies a few months back the assembly included the hub, the ABS sensor, F81Z4A322AA Yellow oring, and 4 F81Z1107AA Studs to connect hub bearing to knuckle.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
Do you have a kit like this one for a 05-07? I would like to do this for my 06 new ball joints and all new seals, thanks.
I have not put one together yet(posted), but I did sell a kit a few months ago so I do know which parts you need to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian42
Do the hub bearing assemblies still come with the studs, o-ring and ABS sensor?
When I bought my OEM hub assemblies a few months back the assembly included the hub, the ABS sensor, F81Z4A322AA Yellow oring, and 4 F81Z1107AA Studs to connect hub bearing to knuckle.
yes, it has the sensor the studs to wheel. it does not inclued the oring or the studs to knuckle.
but those are all listed and sold in the kit...
ed
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I just did mine a few months back, for everything your getting is sounds like a good deal. On the + side, you will have everything there in one shot and ready to go. The only other thing I would suggest or add, is to replace the sub axles U-joints at the same time, that way you know that everything inside is new and ready to go.
Doc.
Doc,
Great point! I'm pricing out U-joints also. Any recommendations on a good online site?
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I'm not so much upset, as sad that this woman is so deluded as to think that a guy working on his own truck in his own garage on a Sat. afternoon with the back bumper of a foot out of their garage... is ghetto, much less that she had so few other things to worry about that she let this be the highlight of her day. Maybe I'm just confused. :-) 
Thanks to Clay at Riffraff.
