I've got two questions concerning ball joints on my F250 Diesel.
When you change ball joints, is there a way to damage the speedometer cable?
The dealer who changed mine says no...but that is because I am accussing him of doing so. My speedo worked when I took my truck in to get the L side lower and upper ball joints changed. When I got it back the speedo would not work until I would get to around 35 mpg. When I was going about 35 the spedo would say 75. I had them check the wheel sensor but they said it was fine and that the problem was in the speedo head. I guess it could happen but I find it fishy.
I had the local ford dealer change L side upper and lower ball joints because they were wore out. Should I go ahead and change the R side too?
I made my own seal press for the large knuckle seal using 3 steel pipe pieces from lowes - $15.26 total amount spent and 3 minutes to assemble pieces.
Miescha -- Good list of the parts and part #'s. Appreciate you sharing that information!
One question: Do you have a picture that you can share of the seal press that you made from lowes? I did see another picture (here in the thread), but would like to compare your seal press.
Your speedometer doesn't use a cable. It uses a reading from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) on the rear axle housing...no where close to the ball joints.
__________________ Dave - FTE moderator Forum Guidelines
this space for rent
Biz: Thanks for the compliments. I have taken from this site much more than I can probably ever give back - so I'm happy to help when I can. The parts-finding process was more difficult for me than the actual mechanical side!
As for a pic of the press I made, I tossed the thing when I was done without taking a pic. HOWEVER, someone else sent me a PM regarding it and I explained the parts I used and they are making one this weekend. I asked that they take a photo and send it to me so we can add it to the site. Hopefully we'll have it next week.
Finally, someone sent me a PM asking how I knew my passenger side wheel bearing was shot when I took it out. I don't recall who sent the PM, but hopefully they will read this. Below is a photo of the bearing race. NONE of the damage was caused by my removal - all the loose pieces fell out when I removed the hub assembly. YIKES!
__________________
1999 F-350 Lariat
4x4 CC 7.3L PSD SRW LB
St. Louis, Missouri
Thanks to all for the ball joint replacement instructions, especially Racerguy for the write up and Miescha for the seal driver idea. After he described the driver, I knew exactly what he was talking about. Went to Lowes and purchased these parts:
1. 1 1/4" x 8" galvanized pipe
2. 1 1/4" flange
3. 1 1/4" cap
It was very easy and worked like a charm! Here is a pic.
Yep - that's it! Nice job deciphering my cryptic description. The parts cost me about $15 which I assume is about what you spent.
Glad to hear it worked as well for you as for me. However, I don't know that I'm the first to use this method. I just spent some time wandering around Lowe's looking for something that would work (I started in the electrical conduit area, then to fencing post area, then to plumbing and voila!).
Nice pic in your gallery too (mind if I steal it to show others?).
__________________
1999 F-350 Lariat
4x4 CC 7.3L PSD SRW LB
St. Louis, Missouri
Yep - that's it! Nice job deciphering my cryptic description. The parts cost me about $15 which I assume is about what you spent.
Glad to hear it worked as well for you as for me. However, I don't know that I'm the first to use this method. I just spent some time wandering around Lowe's looking for something that would work (I started in the electrical conduit area, then to fencing post area, then to plumbing and voila!).
Nice pic in your gallery too (mind if I steal it to show others?).
Here is the pic, obviously it didn't work in last post. Feel free to use the picture as you wish, thanks again!
Just did a ball joint replacement on a 2000 F-250 Super Duty 4WD. Made extensive use of Racerguy's step by step procedure with great color pictures of most of the important steps. I tried several home garage methods of installing the KNUCLE SEALS: PVC pipe and C-clamps on each side, etc without success. I finally went to a Ford dealer where they had a seal driver designed for this seal, and paid them $20 to install them. But I figured that I got $20 worth of advice from the mechanic. He said, after the seal is installed on the axle, slip axle with seal through the knucle, and then slip the four hub studs through the knucle, and draw the axle and seal into place by tightening the four nuts in small increments to keep things straight. It worked like a charm, and I did not need to do any pounding which I do not like to do on anything. I thought about having an installation tool made, but I suspect that it would cost at least $20.
He said, after the seal is installed on the axle, slip axle with seal through the knucle, and then slip the four hub studs through the knucle, and draw the axle and seal into place by tightening the four nuts in small increments to keep things straight.
I've never thought about doing it that way.
Not a bad idea
__________________ Dave - FTE moderator Forum Guidelines
this space for rent
nice instructions racerguy...a big help. here's what i learned from doing my rusted front axle bj job. 1. the hub bearing assembly mounting studs were very rusted into the knuckle. side one took me four hours, a hot wrench, gear puller, and a 12 pound sledge....likely trashing the bearing in the process. so, how did i do side two? take the four nuts off, spray with penetrating oil, install nuts flush with top of studs, and use an impact driver, alternating between studs, and the second side was off in 30 minutes. i gave 'murph' at brewster ford in brewster, ny $20 for this valuable info. 2. pulling the axle seal assembly through the knuckle proved equally frustrating. after reaching through the back side with a screwdriver to push the seal lip into the knuckle, the axle seal assembly came out much easier. i'll post this in a new thread i'm gonna start on a separte axle bearing question.
Hey Racerguy, I'm no mechanic but like to mess around. Those are some of the best instruction with pictures I've seen. Great job. Love this site for outstanding info. Will no doubt save a guy a ton of $ not to mention the satisfaction of doing some of this stuff by self. Thanks....Tim..Prince George BC
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
HOWEVER, someone else sent me a PM regarding it and I explained the parts I used and they are making one this weekend. I asked that they take a photo and send it to me so we can add it to the site. Hopefully we'll have it next week.
WW, 4" MBRP, DP Tuner 6 pos., BTS VB, HPX, Reg. Fuel, in tank, pre-pump, CCV, Gauges, boost reg., Trucool, trans filter, coolant filter, SPEARCO intercooler, Hellwig sway bar, Radius-rods, Air bags, Silverstars/wiring harness
"Cool enough for me!" 
10 Strokin and 4 Smokin! 
2. pulling the axle seal assembly through the knuckle proved equally frustrating. after reaching through the back side with a screwdriver to push the seal lip into the knuckle, the axle seal assembly came out much easier. i'll post this in a new thread i'm gonna start on a separte axle bearing question.
