Thanx merc45 & brian42 I got the axle out today. It came after a few turns and prys as merc suggested. I just needed to be sure I wasn't going to destroy something internally. New ball joints are in and a new universal. I bought the new axle seal and dust seal. Now I need to put them on and I can go back together. It's been fun, but it is some tedious work. I understand why the shops charge the way they do. The passenger side should be a little quicker. The learning curve takes the longest. Oh and I of course broke the vac line fitting. I was able to remedy that quick with a 1/8 inch pipe fitting and a swage lock 3/16 stub out (all stainless). I think better than OEM. Merc what local is your father out of. I was heading that way to Jersey (Salem plant) but they cut back the amount of people they need. I will be heading to 3 mile and peach bottom in PA soon. Thanx again guys and don't go any where as I will probably have more questions. I love this place!
Thanx merc45 & brian42 I got the axle out today. It came after a few turns and prys as merc suggested. I just needed to be sure I wasn't going to destroy something internally. New ball joints are in and a new universal. I bought the new axle seal and dust seal. Now I need to put them on and I can go back together. It's been fun, but it is some tedious work. I understand why the shops charge the way they do. The passenger side should be a little quicker. The learning curve takes the longest. Oh and I of course broke the vac line fitting. I was able to remedy that quick with a 1/8 inch pipe fitting and a swage lock 3/16 stub out (all stainless). I think better than OEM. Merc what local is your father out of. I was heading that way to Jersey (Salem plant) but they cut back the amount of people they need. I will be heading to 3 mile and peach bottom in PA soon. Thanx again guys and don't go any where as I will probably have more questions. I love this place!
dad is out of local 274 where do u live pipefitter 73? also your vac fitting fix is much better then stock, nice work. I capped off my knuckle vac line cause i put manual hubs in and i remove all associated vac lines and vac solenoid. kenny
Local 73 Oswego, NY. I have both manual hubs and auto. Why? Did alot ford SD's come like that. I was told I had 1 of a kind in 5000 that didn't get a chip in the ignition key when I had the keyless starter put in. I don't know. I just know I didn't need the special bypass box/thingy. Saved me money anyway. So hopefully it will all go back together well. I made the axle seal tool, so I will put seal on in the AM and get her back up and running.
my buddy has a place in oswego .... Ever go to Dominics? Great bar!
I had my bike up there not that long ago for my friends Bach Party.
My 03 does not have a chip in the ign and it did have power locks... I added remote start and keyless entry later with no issues
watch the ball joints... my upper ball joint zerk fitting would actually come in contact with the U joint on the axle... many people do not have this issue but i did... be careful about that
Merc Dominic's use to be the first turn inn. They have a lot of bikers every weekend. If you come up again we will have to meet. You can't miss my truck as it has all the HID's and the back window has the purple/yellow eyes from the movie Jeepers Creepers. My next project is a lift. 4"/6" not sure yet. I don't know that much, so I go slow. I will have to look around on here and see what others have done. I do know I want a suspension lift. Just not too big. Theres a guy in town who has a 250 SD with a 12" lift. It was done right and the truck looks real good and handles well, but way too much for me. The truck was done by a company in Arizona. Way cool, but more than I want.
Hey guys when I go back together, do I need to grease the manual hubs inside? They look real dry in there and I don't see any evidence of grease ever being in there.
Merc Dominic's use to be the first turn inn. They have a lot of bikers every weekend. If you come up again we will have to meet. You can't miss my truck as it has all the HID's and the back window has the purple/yellow eyes from the movie Jeepers Creepers. My next project is a lift. 4"/6" not sure yet. I don't know that much, so I go slow. I will have to look around on here and see what others have done. I do know I want a suspension lift. Just not too big. Theres a guy in town who has a 250 SD with a 12" lift. It was done right and the truck looks real good and handles well, but way too much for me. The truck was done by a company in Arizona. Way cool, but more than I want.
My buddy knows the owners pretty well at Dominics, I do not remember it being the first turn inn, but i have only been going up there as of late. if i go up again we should meet! as for your hubs... do not grease them unless you are done with he auto aspect... the grease will not allow the air locking hub to function properly... I think a light light coating of grease is ok, but not alot kenny
OK Merc understood. I will not grease them. I want/need the auto 4 wheel. Winters are hell here. You don't get out of your vehicle here in the winter. The white outs are terrible.
OK Merc understood. I will not grease them. I want/need the auto 4 wheel. Winters are hell here. You don't get out of your vehicle here in the winter. The white outs are terrible.
i heard how bad the snow can be up there... if i lived there, at first snow fall my hubs would get locked in and they would get unlocked when winter was over i do that here in nj too... if i know there will be snow i lock them a head of time and run with the hubs locked and transfer case in 2wd kenny
Racerguy, merc and company. Success, sweet bliss it is. Drivers side complete now on to the passenger side. If I had a shop to work in I would have dismantled both sides, but I am confined to a paved driveway. That's OK though, as I can take my time and learn. I really appreciate all the direction and input. Had I not found this site, I would have had to cough up the $$$ for a shop. Racerguys tutorial also gave me the confidence I needed to begin the job and follow it through. Thanks again gentlemen, kudos to all of you. I think I'll stick around here. Plenty of good info and direction, Bill
Racerguy, merc and company. Success, sweet bliss it is. Drivers side complete now on to the passenger side. If I had a shop to work in I would have dismantled both sides, but I am confined to a paved driveway. That's OK though, as I can take my time and learn. I really appreciate all the direction and input. Had I not found this site, I would have had to cough up the $$$ for a shop. Racerguys tutorial also gave me the confidence I needed to begin the job and follow it through. Thanks again gentlemen, kudos to all of you. I think I'll stick around here. Plenty of good info and direction, Bill
very glad to hear you got it done.... if i remember my truck right the main caliper bolts are 166 ft lbs, the slide pin bolts are 42 ft lbs and the upper ball joint is ~ 200 ft lbs and the lower like 165 ort so... you better check the ball joint ones... the 4 bolts on the sealed assy i forget but 135 seems right to me but i may be wrong... anyway good luck and double check my torque specs as i am going from memory kenny
very glad to hear you got it done.... if i remember my truck right the main caliper bolts are 166 ft lbs, the slide pin bolts are 42 ft lbs and the upper ball joint is ~ 200 ft lbs and the lower like 165 ort so... you better check the ball joint ones... the 4 bolts on the sealed assy i forget but 135 seems right to me but i may be wrong... anyway good luck and double check my torque specs as i am going from memory kenny
Well I may have goofed there as I followed the tutorial to the letter. Upper Bj 69 ft/lbs, lower 150 and all the other values you quoted for everything else. Oh, and the tie rod at 52ft/lbs. The Bj's are made by Duralast and didn't have any paperwork specs. I hope I didn't screw up. The knuckle was as tight as hell when I torqued the bj's. I could barely move it to install the tie rod in place. Let me know what all of you think, Bill
Well I may have goofed there as I followed the tutorial to the letter. Upper Bj 69 ft/lbs, lower 150 and all the other values you quoted for everything else. Oh, and the tie rod at 52ft/lbs. The Bj's are made by Duralast and didn't have any paperwork specs. I hope I didn't screw up. The knuckle was as tight as hell when I torqued the bj's. I could barely move it to install the tie rod in place. Let me know what all of you think, Bill
Whatever i had in my instruction guide is right... my memory is apparently not what it once was.... and my knuckle did not move easily either, but it did move and they will loosen up... the last thing you want to do though is over tighten them then loosen them to try and loosen them up - that dont work kenny
Whatever i had in my instruction guide is right... my memory is apparently not what it once was.... and my knuckle did not move easily either, but it did move and they will loosen up... the last thing you want to do though is over tighten them then loosen them to try and loosen them up - that dont work kenny
So you think it should be good? do some joints require more and less torque than others. Or is it specific to each type of truck. Meaning size GVW and such. Like I said I'm learning.
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i do that here in nj too... if i know there will be snow i lock them a head of time and run with the hubs locked and transfer case in 2wd kenny
as I followed the tutorial to the letter. Upper Bj 69 ft/lbs, lower 150 and all the other values you quoted for everything else. Oh, and the tie rod at 52ft/lbs. The Bj's are made by Duralast and didn't have any paperwork specs. I hope I didn't screw up. The knuckle was as tight as hell when I torqued the bj's. I could barely move it to install the tie rod in place. Let me know what all of you think, Bill
