Strange. My total price was $304.00. I didn't pay any shipping at all......
The kit was $291. Add the shipping and I was closing in on $400. I was able to piece it together and have it at my door for almost $50 less between my dealership and www.RockAuto.com.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
Thanks for the info, it only took me 6 1/2 hours to complete both sides, your a big help, i had to goto the local hardware store to find a pipe i could use to set the ball joints but that was the only hang up. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this info to all of us who use it.
Thanks for the info, it only took me 6 1/2 hours to complete both sides, your a big help, i had to goto the local hardware store to find a pipe i could use to set the ball joints but that was the only hang up. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this info to all of us who use it.
You didn't beat them in with the pipe and a hammer did you?
Originally Posted by CLutchf250 Thanks for the info, it only took me 6 1/2 hours to complete both sides, your a big help, i had to goto the local hardware store to find a pipe i could use to set the ball joints but that was the only hang up. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this info to all of us who use it.
You didn't beat them in with the pipe and a hammer did you?
Some of the balljoint press kits that you borrow locally don't have the correct tool for the SuperDuty's. Maybe that is what he is talking about.
OK guys, there's been instructions on how to make a knuckle seal installer tool for the earlier Superduty's. Has anyone made one or has one for the later model with the big 5-7/16" seal? I'm keen to make one which I can do easy enough, but I need all the dimensions.
The seal is part # 5C3Z-3254-AA
[DON'T get the seal listed (710494) for the later models from Rockauto. Federal Mogul still have not got it listed correctly.]
Hi Gents, I'm new here. Found this site by googling Ball Joint replacement. Racerguy you did an outstanding job on this play by play. I have my drivers side dimanteld and I'm having trouble getting the axle out. I have tried with pry bar and 2 pry bars with no luck. Is it possible there is a spring clip holding the other end in the differential? Or do I need to really horse on the pry bars. I see another member made an angle iron puller to get his out. I can do the same, but not knowing if someting is holding it at the other end I don't want to ruin/break anytrhing. This is a 2003 5.4L 4X4 SD. Any help will be most appreciated. Thanx, Bill
Hi Gents, I'm new here. Found this site by googling Ball Joint replacement. Racerguy you did an outstanding job on this play by play. I have my drivers side dimanteld and I'm having trouble getting the axle out. I have tried with pry bar and 2 pry bars with no luck. Is it possible there is a spring clip holding the other end in the differential? Or do I need to really horse on the pry bars. I see another member made an angle iron puller to get his out. I can do the same, but not knowing if someting is holding it at the other end I don't want to ruin/break anytrhing. This is a 2003 5.4L 4X4 SD. Any help will be most appreciated. Thanx, Bill
just follow these directions.... and you cant go wrong, i have an 03 as well... you will get a pretty good seal on the axle spindle... make sure you take the hub and c clip out etc and the sealed assy FIRST.. otherwise you need to pull the whole sealed assy at once, i dont suggest that here is a link http://truckhelpdesk.com/web/ball.pdf Kenny
Thanks Merc45. I saved yours to. I have everything out, but the axle so I can get to the bj's. I was just afraid there was something else holding the axle back. I'll try again in the AM with the pry bar. It is really in there. We'll see. Thanx.
Thanks Merc45. I saved yours to. I have everything out, but the axle so I can get to the bj's. I was just afraid there was something else holding the axle back. I'll try again in the AM with the pry bar. It is really in there. We'll see. Thanx.
i would pry a little then spin 90 degrees then pry some more then spin then pry then spin... it will come out eventually.... the first time for me i thought i was going to pry so hard the other wheel gets sucked in through the axle tube kenny
That's what I thought to Merc, so I stopped. I have only been working on my truck the last 2 years. I am a real novice with a good mechanical ability. So I tend to yield on the side of caution until I know better. That's why I'm here to learn. I'm just a dumb pipefitter/welder willing to learn and save money. And I love to get dirty. Thank you for your help in this, Bill
Early last winter I used the ball joint write up to replace the ball joints on my 2000 4wd F350. I originally noticed the dust seal had fallen out of place and went on to discover my ball joints were worn out too. Write up was great.
Well, last week I was climbing around under the truck greasing and noticed the same dust seal on the front drive shaft where it goes into the hub had come out AGAIN! I get to pull it all apart again.
I would apprecaite ANY ideas on how to better secure this dust seal on the back of the front hub. I HATE redoing a job.
Hi Gents, I'm new here. Found this site by googling Ball Joint replacement. Racerguy you did an outstanding job on this play by play. I have my drivers side dimanteld and I'm having trouble getting the axle out. I have tried with pry bar and 2 pry bars with no luck. Is it possible there is a spring clip holding the other end in the differential? Or do I need to really horse on the pry bars. I see another member made an angle iron puller to get his out. I can do the same, but not knowing if someting is holding it at the other end I don't want to ruin/break anytrhing. This is a 2003 5.4L 4X4 SD. Any help will be most appreciated. Thanx, Bill
I just did this a few weeks ago. Axle popped out with no issues. make sure you're down to just the spindle and axle seal (in the back of the knuckle) and you should be good to go. No clip in the back, it should just pop out of the differential. The axle tube is just a big dust shield to protect the axle from damage. The other end is splined and fits into the differential without any clips. Make sure you unbolt the 4 bolts in the back of the knuckle and remove the whole hub assembly and after that it's all muscle. My truck had 182K on it and it didn't take much to pop the axle out, but I pried with confidence knowing that I wasn't going to hurt anything. If you've followed racerguy's directions to get that far, you should be good to go to pop the axle out.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
Early last winter I used the ball joint write up to replace the ball joints on my 2000 4wd F350. I originally noticed the dust seal had fallen out of place and went on to discover my ball joints were worn out too. Write up was great.
Well, last week I was climbing around under the truck greasing and noticed the same dust seal on the front drive shaft where it goes into the hub had come out AGAIN! I get to pull it all apart again.
I would apprecaite ANY ideas on how to better secure this dust seal on the back of the front hub. I HATE redoing a job.
Thanks,
John
Something is really wrong if your main knuckle seal keeps falling out, I can understand the dust rubber on the other side (the one on the long part of the axle that goes to the diff... that dust seal is a POS and i would not worry if that one fell off.
i need to know which seal you are talking about... if its the main knuckle seal something is wrong
the main knuckle seal is the one you need a drift to pound on (i did mine with 3 C clamps and almost lost a nut in the process)
Pipefitter73, my dad is a pipefitter here in jersey
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RCV Supertourer 6.0 V8 TDi.
If you've followed racerguy's directions to get that far, you should be good to go to pop the axle out.
